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i was wondering how that temp control **** works on a 1967 ford i push the **** in it springs back out not hooked up maybe so if its not hooked up where does the cable hook up yet i havent really looked cause its like 10 below out thanks
1967 deluxe fresh air heater is 1967 only, has 3 ***** that attach to cables.
Two of these ***** were only furnished with the cables.
Temperature control cable (18518) attaches to the heater water valve that is spliced into the inlet to heater core heater hose. When pulled, opens the valve.
Fresh air cable (18552) attaches to lever on heater box, when pulled, allows outside air to enter.
The **** (17513) of the heater blower switch/cable (18578) was available by itself.
Here is the only parts catalog pic that shows these ***** and cables.
ok the cables hooked up to the valve im it looks like so ill mess with it when its not 10 below with 30 below wind chills
C3UZ-18495-A .. Cable Operated Heater Water Valve-Use with fresh air heater (Motorcraft YG-133) / Splices into inlet to heater core heater hose / Available from Ford
1963/67 Econoline / 1965/66 F100/1100 & 1967 F100/750 with deluxe fresh air heater / 1968/72 F100/750.
MSRP: $49.42 / FTE Ford dealer parts dept sponsor autonationfordwhitebearlake.com price: $27.18.
Auto Nation Ford, formerly Tousley Ford (tousleyfordparts.com), located in White Bear Lake MN
If you still have a metal valve, squirt some WD40 or PB blaster on it. I then keep it oiled with some light oil. Even with minimal use, they rust up and stick. Some oil on the shaft keeps it free.
I think you're both right. I bet ya I've sold more valves than cables prolly at least 25:1. But a good shot of spray penetrating lube would be a good idea. The full length of the cable.
I think you're both right. I bet ya I've sold more valves than cables prolly at least 25:1. But a good shot of spray penetrating lube would be a good idea. The full length of the cable.
Yeah when did mine with w-d40 remove the whole dash unit hung it one end on a wire let he lube run all the way through out the other end. Then work the levers giving it other shot wd-40 lube.Minds being working good ever since. I have replaced my w-valve with newer ones, I get at PnP so always stays in good condition.
But Jeff just incase I'm wrong this time, I'm heading out for some type fowl tenderizer just in case it's not road kill that would be all soften by the time I get it..
ps
I have seen them now make from some type of plastic now..
orich
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