I picked up my 65 (F25DK672543) (129 M F250 E81 N 24) last summer and have been visiting this site everyday since that time. I have not posted much and should more often but I do appreciate everyone's input and help. I have learned so much from many people here. When I was in high school I had a 66 F100 that I drove around for about two years. It was finally sold to pay some debts and 15 years later was able to come across this 65 F250. I have done a lot of work on it since I bought it.

1. Replaced most of the wiring on the electrical system, new starter, new battery, new starter solenoid.
2. Fixed all shorts in all lights and turn signals
3. Fixed linking gas tank
4. Flushed cooling system
5. Added new front shocks
6. Rebuilt instrument cluster and added missing ALT meter
7. Fixed parking break

I now drive this truck each day and have many more things to do to it until I get it where I would like. You would think as often as I come here I would know how to upload some of the images I have. Once I go back and read how to do that then I will post them.

Here is my current problem that I would like to fix. On my drivers side door the lock can give me some real trouble. Most of this cold winter I had to open the passenger door and jump across the seat and open the drivers door. I have oiled the lock very good. When I insert the key I can get it to turn but still cannot get the lock to unlock completely. When I do get it work and open the door it seems to hang on the lock some and I have to really pull hard to open. I read a few months ago about someone else having this same problem but cannot find that thread. Can someone give me some tips on what I need to do to fix this? Thanks again for all of your help.

Jon

 

I ending up placing some pictures under an album. I don't think I can attach pictures here yet.

 

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Thank you Bill.

 

Jon the post you have described may have been mine. Sorry, have been gone from the forum for a while. I had the lock set arm reversed and the unit would not "unlock" but would lock. Did you get this fixed?
Scott

 

This is one of the few things that I will recommend WD40 for. Spray the hello out of the tumbler with it and you should see an improvement.

I use Break Free on my guns and find that to be a super excellent luber for about any moving part.



John

 

I still have not fixed the issue. I still need to get in there and do this but I did figure out that if I pull the door towards the front of the truck a bit and then push the button I can get the door to open. I also have spayed a lot of W40 in the lock but still need to get in and see what is causing the issue. Thanks for the ideas.

 

Its been a little while since I was here. I did figure out my door lock issue. I sprayed the tumbler a lot with WD40 but still could not get it to work. When I opened the door from the inside the tumbler would roll freely. When I opened from the outside the tumbler would catch on one of the gears just enough to not allow it to roll. I have not replaced the part yet but am looking for another assembly to install. Has anyone had this issue before and did the correct somehow?

 

Jon:
Pull off the door inspection cover, get a good light and look inside to see what's going on. The door button must push the lever far enough to disengage the door latch mechanism. That may be why it opens from the inside and not from the outside door handle. Make sure the lock link inside the door is not binding. Also look at the door latch with the door open and make sure the latch (gear looking thingy) on the door spins freely when you push in the door button. If it doesn't, the problem is in the button adjustment. If it does, then the latch is probably not adjusted passively in the striker on the door jam. It's not a lube, but a mechanical issue.

 

I'm having a hard time understanding some people. Don't get me wrong, I say what I feel, but when it comes to understanding people I'm lost.

For instants, you've done this to your truck:
Replaced most of the wiring on the electrical system, new starter, new battery, new starter solenoid.
Fixed all shorts in all lights and turn signals
Fixed linking gas tank
Flushed cooling system
Added new front shocks
Rebuilt instrument cluster and added missing ALT meter
Fixed parking break
You drive this truck every day, in seven months you haven't tried to fix the door, why? Isn't that something you use regularly?
Instead, you have found other ways to open it without addressing the problem.
I know sometimes I shouldn't comment, but damn people these are the simplest of problems your going to encounter. I hope your not planning an engine rebuild or a disc brake swap.

 

I do drive my truck daily and I can open the door. I have had other issues with the truck that I have been working on along the way. The door was a smaller one and I am just getting around to it. I don't think you know me and maybe this isn't the best place to judge what I can or can't do. For your info I did do a brake swap on this truck now and the motor is going to be rebuilt. I guess I am trying to figure out the purpose of your comment????? If you are trying to make me feel dumb and go away I got news for you, I don't care what you think! Thanks for your insight. Have a good day Sir.

 

I did pull the cover off Saturday and I can see that when I push the door button in that it does not push the lever far enough to disengage the door latch. I didn't know about the button adjustment. I will take a look at that. Thanks for your help.

 

If you have to push the door inwards and then by holding it there...pushing the button and then yanking on the handle at the same time to get the door to open...

The screws that retain the striker plate to the door post have worked loose...causing the striker plate to 'wiggle around.'

Tighten the striker plate, it may be necessary to add shim(s) [see 22058 in parts catalog pic] to get the striker plate aligned properly.

The screws, which come with a star washer to lock them in place, may have stripped. The striker plate itself may be worn past the point of no return.

379879-S78 .. Striker Plate Philips Flat Head Screw ~ 5/16" -18 x 1 1/2" long / 1965/66 F100/1100 & 1967/72 F100/750 / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 2 = 800-543-4959.

BOWMAN SALES & SERVICE in Bowman ND has 9 = 701-523-3257.

COAZ-6222008-A .. Striker Plate / 1961/66 F100/1100 / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. has 70.

AR) COAB-6422058-A .. Shim-Striker Plate (AR = As Required) / 1961/66 F100/1100 / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. has 131.

Note: Many dealers do not inventory standard (hardware) parts, which means your local dealer may have dozens of these screws.

 

Referring to the door; it is a safety feature. If you drive it daily then I would have fixed that as one of the first things to get fixed. I guess others have different priorities.
As far as this comment goes, " If you are trying to make me feel dumb and go away I got news for you, I don't care what you think! Thanks for your insight. Have a good day Sir.[/QUOTE]" Those are your words, I never told you, you were dumb or to go away.
Think before you wright something down for all to see.
Now rephrasing my comment, sort of, If you drive it daily and you have issues with the door, aren't you worried that it may open on a turn causing more damage to it or worst yet, you?
Being able to read comments for what there worth isn't a gift, it's giving the comment a little time to sink in before making comments that aren't warranted.

 

Robert

I appreciate your concern and your feedback. I am worried about it and I am going to resolve this issue tomorrow. Thank you.

Jon