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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 11:51 AM
  #1  
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ELC question

i will be installing a long block this weekend, would this be the best time to switch coolants if i were to do so? or is there still a huge process in flushing involved? so naturally everything is disconnented and drained except for maybe residual in heater core.

gimmie your thoughts and suggestions please.
thank you
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 01:52 PM
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9228.bobcat
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Originally Posted by mustang9701
i will be installing a long block this weekend, would this be the best time to switch coolants if i were to do so? or is there still a huge process in flushing involved? so naturally everything is disconnented and drained except for maybe residual in heater core.

gimmie your thoughts and suggestions please.
thank you
Do you know what kind of coolant was in it? If not elc then if you plan on putting that in, then I would go ahead and vc9 and flush. I would pull the thermostat out and speed up the process. But yea there is still a process unfortunately.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 01:59 PM
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I would just flush the radiator top to bottom, bottom to top real good with tap water, back flush the heater core and degauss tank and then fill the first time with distilled water at first start up.

Since it is a new long block and i assume hasn't had any fluid in it i wouldn't contaminate it with Ford Gold.

Then flush and fill with the right mixture of ELC. when you top it off after a day or so use the full strength stuff to mix with the distilled that was left in the block and heater core.

If you run the vc-9 and restore stuff you stand a chance of it getting into the block passages and possibly clogging up the oil cooler.

Lastly, put a coolant filter on it from sinister diesel to catch the casting sand and crud early.

My .02

d
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 9228.bobcat
Do you know what kind of coolant was in it? If not elc then if you plan on putting that in, then I would go ahead and vc9 and flush. I would pull the thermostat out and speed up the process. But yea there is still a process unfortunately.
It was ford gold. Im building from block up all is drained. Flushing wouldn't do to much I believe. Maybe heater core
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Dlinzy
I would just flush the radiator top to bottom, bottom to top real good with tap water, back flush the heater core and degauss tank and then fill the first time with distilled water at first start up.

Since it is a new long block and i assume hasn't had any fluid in it i wouldn't contaminate it with Ford Gold.

Then flush and fill with the right mixture of ELC. when you top it off after a day or so use the full strength stuff to mix with the distilled that was left in the block and heater core.

If you run the vc-9 and restore stuff you stand a chance of it getting into the block passages and possibly clogging up the oil cooler.

Lastly, put a coolant filter on it from sinister diesel to catch the casting sand and crud early.

My .02

d
Already have coolant filter from sinister. So you think flush rad and heater core. And its a great time to switch???
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 02:57 PM
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9228.bobcat
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Originally Posted by mustang9701
It was ford gold. Im building from block up all is drained. Flushing wouldn't do to much I believe. Maybe heater core
Didnt know you were building it, took it as you bought a used long block. Could just flush heater lines and heater core before you hook it up and then do a one time flush with dw and call it good.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 07:43 PM
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yes yes, there was a process. i cried while i was doing mine. it was long and painful. lol.

but i was super glad tat i did it and i sleep better at night knowing she's gonna be more reliable.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mustang9701
i will be installing a long block this weekend, would this be the best time to switch coolants if i were to do so? or is there still a huge process in flushing involved? so naturally everything is disconnented and drained except for maybe residual in heater core.

gimmie your thoughts and suggestions please.
thank you
Yep yep, perfect time for a serious flush. While you're at it, shake the heater core's quick-connects at the firewall: they are plastic and become brittle due to heat from the turbo, and can very suddenly snap clean off.

Make your last flush pass with distilled water.

Don't forget the anti-cavitation additive when using an ELC.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 08:58 AM
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Whats the anti cavitation additve? I have yet to hear about this
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 08:59 AM
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First time i heard about an anti- cavitation additive when using ELC. What is it and where can it be bought?
Thanks, Ron
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 09:01 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by holdtyte
First time i heard about an anti- cavitation additive when using ELC. What is it and where can it be bought? Thanks, Ron
I use shell rotella ELC. There is no need for anti-cavitation. Only thing of mention is at 500,000 miles, for me to check the quality of the ELC. If needed, I can add a chemical to bring the pH level back up. Tats about it.

Dom

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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 09:10 AM
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Thank you, thats exactly what I used.
I got worried for a min.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mustang9701
Thank you, thats exactly what I used. I got worried for a min.
No worries bill. Had me going for a sec too. Lol.

Dom

Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup
 
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