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another quick question.

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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 11:51 PM
  #1  
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From: south cali
another quick question.

Hello all...

I am swapping an OBS engine (96) into my 2000 SD. I've already swapped all the parts from my SD to the Obs long block, including motor mounts, swamps 175/146 injectors, Hpop, A/C and alternator brackets, etc etc. I was planning on dropping the engine in tomorrow but just noticed the dip stick is different. The OBS dipstick is shorter and exits around the A/C evaporator unit. Just by simply measuring, it seems I might be able to leave it as is.
My question is:
Will the IC tube be in the way of the dipstick? Will I have to drop the pan and swap dipsticks??

Thanks
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 05:47 AM
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The dipstick should just snap into the base like it does on the newer style. Leave the part that is bolted into the side of the pan and look for the joint. There's an o-ring in there that keeps it sealed. Pull the one apart from your SD motor first so you can see.

You did change the intake plenums and exhaust manifolds too, right?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 08:57 AM
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Ok. Gotcha. I will give it a shot.

Yes... I replaced pretty much everything from the SD engine over to the OBS. So essentialy I started off with an OBS long block.
The only thing I did not change was the front cover; as they looked identical. The only difference I could see was the HPOP reservoir on the OBS does not use a screen. Not sure if it is absolutely necessary to run it. Should I???
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 04:20 PM
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Christof has done this once or twice for some of his customers. Hopefully he will chime in...will send him a link to the thread.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 06:39 PM
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No reason you need the screen unless you plan on dropping something in the reservoir, but what model OBS was it? The early ones had a de aeration valve in the front that it might be worth changing the front cover while the engine is out.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 07:26 PM
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From: south cali
It is a 96 model OBS.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 08:11 PM
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Ask the OBS guys if it's worth messing with then. Seems to be a rare problem, but it's a possibility.


Also, which oil cooler are you using? I don't remember exactly when they changed, but with a 96, there's the chance you have the staked bypass valve instead of the updated c-clip. It's the little hole with something in it on the plate where the oil filter screws onto. The c-clip is way better since the staked valve sometimes falls out and then you have no oil pressure to start the engine.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 09:46 AM
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I will have to check the oil cooler but I believe it is the same as the SD one.
Reason I used the OBS cooler is because my SD cooler got contaminated with oil/fuel sludge.
I didnt know about this issue, but if memory serves me well it was the C-clip type. I'm pretty sure they looked identical when I put new orings in it...
 
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by UcaN
I will have to check the oil cooler but I believe it is the same as the SD one.
Reason I used the OBS cooler is because my SD cooler got contaminated with oil/fuel sludge.
I didnt know about this issue, but if memory serves me well it was the C-clip type. I'm pretty sure they looked identical when I put new orings in it...
It's just the rear header that different. If you're not re-sealing the cooler...you should be. You can use the center section off the OBS cooler and the rear header off the SD....new orings...done.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2014 | 10:06 AM
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From: south cali
Ahhh... gotcha..
I will do that .

And yes I did re-ring it. Im going to go ahead and remove it and use the SD back part.

Thanks for the heads up..
 
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 12:59 PM
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The dipstick adapter flange inside the oilpan has alignment notches on it that mate with the oilpan... the obs dipstick tube goes basically str8 up while the sd's cant toward the front of the motor. I honestly do not remember if i had to physically swap them, or if i was able to rotate the flange that was already there.

Would be a good idear to pull the pan on the one going in anyway to peek in and make sure no piston cooling jets are missing.. look at cylinder walls, cam lobes, etc...
Best to do it now rather than later and have to pull it back out. If i pull a motor, the pan IS coming off...

Mark, thanks for the heads-up... i need to re-up my membership.
 
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