Help, 2001 4.6 starting problem
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Auburn, Il
Help, 2001 4.6 starting problem
I have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 4.6 in it, it has 186k on it and the only issues I've had was a misfire not to long ago. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and fixed that issue. 2 days ago she ran fine with no issues and this morning I went out to go to the store and she wouldn't start. All the dash lights come on and all of that normal stuff when you turn the key. When I turn the key I hear what sounds kind of like a clunking noise towards the bottom of the windshield and the middle of the dash. The starter does not engage, no nothing, really confused here. I thought maybe the battery was bad so I put my jumper on it and tried but again nothing happened, any ideas?
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
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From: Auburn, Il
Vaper, thanks for the info. I went to autozone and got a new solenoid that goes on the firewall, replaced it no problem and a 6' cable to replace the one to the starter and that's where I'm getting confused at. Now if I'm looking at this correctly it looks like there is 2 wires coming from the positive battery post. One goes to the solenoid and it looks like the other runs down to the starter. Is that right 
? I've always thought one wire ran from battery to the solenoid and then from the other side of the solenoid down to the starter. Any help would be appreciated...
? I've always thought one wire ran from battery to the solenoid and then from the other side of the solenoid down to the starter. Any help would be appreciated...
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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What you may be missing is the fact that there are two solenoids.
The one on the fire wall and one inside the starter.
The one inside the starter operates the mechanics to engage the gear to the flywheel 'and' cut through the battery to the starter motor through heavy copper contacts..
There is more going on than you might have suspected.
Not every design works like this.
One design 'throws' the gear out by lever the other is usually a motor speed helix throw out called a Bendix drive that auto disengages once the flywheel turns faster than the starter drive..
Good luck.
The one on the fire wall and one inside the starter.
The one inside the starter operates the mechanics to engage the gear to the flywheel 'and' cut through the battery to the starter motor through heavy copper contacts..
There is more going on than you might have suspected.
Not every design works like this.
One design 'throws' the gear out by lever the other is usually a motor speed helix throw out called a Bendix drive that auto disengages once the flywheel turns faster than the starter drive..
Good luck.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Auburn, Il
Ok, quick update here. I went out and went to take the battery cable off the starter and as I did the end fell off from being corroded. I then just to test to see if that was the problem took a battery cable and ran it from the positive post of the battery to the starter and tried to start the truck. It didn't start 
it was the same, all the lights came on and when I turned the key it just make the clunk sound. I guess the only thing left would be to get a new starter unless someone else has an idea of what it could be. Any suggestions?
it was the same, all the lights came on and when I turned the key it just make the clunk sound. I guess the only thing left would be to get a new starter unless someone else has an idea of what it could be. Any suggestions?
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 544
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Are you sure the "clunk" is coming from the starter and not the solenoid on the firewall?
It is possible the high resistance at the corroded cable has
damaged the starter.
Clean all battery/starter connections including grounds to rule out
more corrosion.
You said a boost didn't help? this indicates its not the battery,a load test will confirm
Check that engine turns over by hand, to rule out
seized a/c bearing ect
My first thought is the starter is toast but check
all above to be sure
Good luck
It is possible the high resistance at the corroded cable has
damaged the starter.
Clean all battery/starter connections including grounds to rule out
more corrosion.
You said a boost didn't help? this indicates its not the battery,a load test will confirm
Check that engine turns over by hand, to rule out
seized a/c bearing ect
My first thought is the starter is toast but check
all above to be sure
Good luck
Last edited by vaper; Feb 26, 2014 at 06:00 AM. Reason: clairity
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Auburn, Il
Ok guys, I'm stumped. I pulled the starter off the truck and tested it. When I jump the big post to the little post on the starter it pops out and spins. I had the wife pick up a new starter and tested it the same way and both did the same thing so I'm pretty sure the starter is good. What else could cause the truck not to start or engage the starter when turning the key? I've put a new solenoid on the firewall and the starter is good so I don't know where to go from here.
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2011
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Ok guys, I'm stumped. I pulled the starter off the truck and tested it. When I jump the big post to the little post on the starter it pops out and spins. I had the wife pick up a new starter and tested it the same way and both did the same thing so I'm pretty sure the starter is good. What else could cause the truck not to start or engage the starter when turning the key? I've put a new solenoid on the firewall and the starter is good so I don't know where to go from here.
burnt contacts in the solenoid but still work on the bench.
Are you sure your engine turns over by hand ruling out a seized accessory bearing a/c ect
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Auburn, Il
No I didn't install the new starter yet, I was going to go to autozone and have them check it just incase. Sometimes autozone wont take something back if it's been installed so if it's not the starter I can use the 150 bucks towards whatever it is that's wrong. As far as I know the engine isn't locked up, it ran fine the day before it decided not to start. Is there any fuses in between the ignition switch and solenoids or anything like that that could have popped or blown?
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2011
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If you hear a clunk at the starter that rules out a blown fuse, ignition switch or trs
I had a starter doing the same thing as yours for over a month. It would clunk intermittently but start after cycling the key a few times
Don't rule out a problem in the accessory drive on the grounds
it was fine before.
An easy test is to remove the belt and try it.
I had a starter doing the same thing as yours for over a month. It would clunk intermittently but start after cycling the key a few times
Don't rule out a problem in the accessory drive on the grounds
it was fine before.
An easy test is to remove the belt and try it.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 813
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From: Auburn, Il
If you hear a clunk at the starter that rules out a blown fuse, ignition switch or trs
I had a starter doing the same thing as yours for over a month. It would clunk intermittently but start after cycling the key a few times
Don't rule out a problem in the accessory drive on the grounds
it was fine before.
An easy test is to remove the belt and try it.
I had a starter doing the same thing as yours for over a month. It would clunk intermittently but start after cycling the key a few times
Don't rule out a problem in the accessory drive on the grounds
it was fine before.
An easy test is to remove the belt and try it.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
Not sure what you are referring to?
This is how I see this
If
1 All cables/connections are good,tight and clean including grounds
2 The battery passes load test
3 You have approximately 12.6 volts to the large wire on the starter
4 There is power, approximately 12.6 volts, to the small wire at the starter when
key is turned to start position
I can only think of 2 things that would explain this no crank
The starter is failing or the engine is stuck
Maybe someone else will chime in to confirm this diagnosis for you
This is how I see this
If
1 All cables/connections are good,tight and clean including grounds
2 The battery passes load test
3 You have approximately 12.6 volts to the large wire on the starter
4 There is power, approximately 12.6 volts, to the small wire at the starter when
key is turned to start position
I can only think of 2 things that would explain this no crank
The starter is failing or the engine is stuck
Maybe someone else will chime in to confirm this diagnosis for you
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
Glad you got it going Tardster
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