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bought an "03" f-350 superduty 4x4 crew cab with a 6.0 two years ago. Had 82,000 mi. on it. now at 112,575 mi. it started running rough loss of power and stalling. Restarts after sitting about ten minutes makes it a couple few miles then stalls again no CEL.'s are lit. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated....thank you....
i don't know enough to help you but i am sure a few truck owners drinking their morning coffee will chime in soon. if you have a few minutes....i am assuming you have all day to fix this.....read over the tech folder. i am still going over it myself. lots of good stuff in there to read for fun and for increasing reliability of your truck.
Thanx Mark to the best of my knowledge it's all stock. I have a buddy coming over today I think he can bring a code reader. He's a good mechanic but really has no 6.0 specific knowledge. First thing he thinks we should do is put some sort of injector cleaner in the fuel and try n keep it running in the driveway for an hour or so. I was about to put this truck to work delivering fifth wheel campers and have concerns about passing NY. state and D.O.T. inspections if I do modifications such as eliminating the egr, ect ect
Codes first, then determine what to do. Scan gauge 2 in your future or you will be throwing the wrong solutions at the truck and spending $ unnecessarily. Make sure you use Motorcraft or racor fuel and oil filters. What is your battery load test, alternator charge load testing, FICM voltages? We also need when last oil and fuel filters and fresh oil. HEUI injectors use high pressure oil and FICM am to fire them. Fuel pressure?
thanx mike, my batteries are shot had to charge them then use booster setting to start her yesterday today that won't even work. I'll get new batteries this week then go from there. I changed the fuel filters yesterday used Baldwin she's due for an oil change I have shell rotella and a fram filter that supposedly meets oem requirements. Could bad batteries possibly be the main cause of my problem? I have concerns putting any money into this truck as although I could put up to a couple thousand into it over the next few weeks I'd be maxed out at about 2k. if it wasn't right and ready to go to work by that point I'd be really jammed up and my back up plan of letting the bank repo it and taking a company driver job somewhere and using the money to buy a cheap used vehicle to get to work would be out. I am way out of my league when it comes to working on this truck myself and cannot afford to let a dealer work on it.
Bad batteries can and will cause huge problems and expensive ones as well. I wouldnt even crank it up again until you get new batteries. The injector cleaner idea is a waste of time. That is not your issue.
Bad batteries will kill the FICM. You really need a Scangauge2 to see whats going on. They are $160 at Auto Zone, a diagnose at at dealer is $120 or so. The SG2 will pay for it's self with the first use!
Seems to me its ficm, batteries, alternator related instead of hpop leaking off. Usually with hpop related it either would just die and not restart or run fine and when you shut it off will not crank until cool off. Like a couple of hours to cool down.
Thanx everyone, will not try to crank it or do anything else till I get the batteries and a scan guage might take a few days I'm waiting for a check to clear my bank. I'll be back on when I get them. Thank you so much you can't begin to know how much I appreciate your advice.. I'm thinking the scan gauge will come with instructions on using it? I agree with eric as this motor uses absolutely no oil between changes and drips no oil on the driveway. I'm wondering what the ficm would cost me and if it's difficult to remove and install? thanx again....tom...
Change that Fram oil filter out to a Motorcraft and make sure you have the stock cap in there properly. That's going to cause problems. Those Baldwin fuel filters don't protect from water either, change them out as well. Then I would start with the batteries being fully charged separately, then load test the alternator, before you try starting more as low voltage is killing the FICM. Then you need the SG2 to get FICM main and logic power voltage to see how good it is. You need cold key on, engine off, then key on, engine cranking, then running of it with FICM main, and logic power. I would start it with full charge and two starting assist, one on each battery. That will get you the highest cranking RPM, the best chance of starting. If you do have a HPO leak, it may start cold, but then not be able to start warmed. If it doesn't start like this, try heating FICM with hair dryer for some time then try above over, if it does start with a heated FICM, that points to FICM. There are other things to try, but let's start there.
thanx mark and mike it may be as long as till Friday morning till I get the batteries and scan gauge again you can't imagine how much I appreciate your help.. you guys rock... will let everyone know how it goes as soon as I get them.....