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Some people think that there is an advantage to the GM HEI ignition because of the "High Engergy Ignition" name and because all of the components are contained in one unit. The only "advantage" you will get with the HEI is less wiring. The disadvantage you have here is the bottom end if the distributor is supported by the distributor body. That is why all the fancy aftermarket billet HEI's boast about the upgraded full-length bushing and roller bearings. And in my personal opinion, the HUGE GM HEI distributor look really ugly sitting up front in a Ford engine.
The Ford Motorcraft Dusraspark II with the large cap is also a "High Energy Ignition" but the coil and ignition module are remotely mounted. This is actually a better arrangement than the GM HEI where the coil and the ignition module are piled on top of the distributor. The only "disadvantage" you have here is more wiring. And unlike the GM distributor, the bottom end of a Ford distributor is not supported by the distributor body; it's supported by the engine block itself and therefore doesn't have the bushing problem the GM unit has.
Also, Motorcraft Duraspark ignition also has a "start retard' feature that actually retards the timing at startup for easier, quicker starts than the GM HEI. This allows you to run more timing without the hot start problems. So that is another advantage for Duraspark.
I don't know about the GM HEI, but the main problem that people are having with the Duraspark ignition system has to do with the cheap, Chinese knock-off parts that are found at the local McParts stores. These cheaply made and unreliable components are what is giving the Duraspark a bad name. As long as you stick with good qulaity Motorcraft parts - ESPECIALLY the ignition modules, you will have a reliable, high-energy ignition system that is just as good as ANY aftermarket ignition system.
I couldn't find the duraspark harness anywhere, didn't feel like buying the painless one and didn't want to make one. The HEI made sense for me and I don't think it looks bad at all.
I need to work on my plug wiring a bit (sort of a rats nest) but other than that, it's 100%. Wiring is simple, works well, job done..
I've skimmed a few threads on here where users mention Duraspark vs. HEI.
What are the advantages? Drawbacks?
Looks like Lariat hit it out of the park, again.
I'll add one thing: some here have added an HEI module to their Duraspark, and it requires all the wiring of the Duraspark, a heat sink, and deletes the retard on start feature that FoMoCo added to DSII.
If you lack the harmness, LMK and I'll watch the 'yards. If you want a pretty dizzy, this one Ford Duraspark « Performance Distributors Performance Distributors will fit right in. AND work with your wiring and module.
Some people think that there is an advantage to the GM HEI ignition because of the "High Engergy Ignition" name and because all of the components are contained in one unit. The only "advantage" you will get with the HEI is less wiring. The disadvantage you have here is the bottom end if the distributor is supported by the distributor body. That is why all the fancy aftermarket billet HEI's boast about the upgraded full-length bushing and roller bearings. And in my personal opinion, the HUGE GM HEI distributor look really ugly sitting up front in a Ford engine.
The Ford Motorcraft Dusraspark II with the large cap is also a "High Energy Ignition" but the coil and ignition module are remotely mounted. This is actually a better arrangement than the GM HEI where the coil and the ignition module are piled on top of the distributor. The only "disadvantage" you have here is more wiring. And unlike the GM distributor, the bottom end of a Ford distributor is not supported by the distributor body; it's supported by the engine block itself and therefore doesn't have the bushing problem the GM unit has.
Also, Motorcraft Duraspark ignition also has a "start retard' feature that actually retards the timing at startup for easier, quicker starts than the GM HEI. This allows you to run more timing without the hot start problems. So that is another advantage for Duraspark.
I don't know about the GM HEI, but the main problem that people are having with the Duraspark ignition system has to do with the cheap, Chinese knock-off parts that are found at the local McParts stores. These cheaply made and unreliable components are what is giving the Duraspark a bad name. As long as you stick with good qulaity Motorcraft parts - ESPECIALLY the ignition modules, you will have a reliable, high-energy ignition system that is just as good as ANY aftermarket ignition system.
Wow, thank you for that. That really cleared it all up for me. Looks like i'll be sticking with my good ol' Ford stuff then. Dad is pushing me to throw an HEI in there, and I was hesitant because I didn't want to start mixing brands...kinda sacrilege ya know? But he's all about GM's anyway.
Looks like Lariat hit it out of the park, again.
I'll add one thing: some here have added an HEI module to their Duraspark, and it requires all the wiring of the Duraspark, a heat sink, and deletes the retard on start feature that FoMoCo added to DSII.
If you lack the harmness, LMK and I'll watch the 'yards. If you want a pretty dizzy, this one Ford Duraspark « Performance Distributors Performance Distributors will fit right in. AND work with your wiring and module.
Yeah he sure did!
I have a bone stock, factory 1986 F250, 460, 4 speed. I'm in the process of paying off another truck that has already been lifted 6 inches, had the frame sandblasted and painted, and a Dana 60 out of a '97 F350 put under it. My basic plan here is to turn 3 trucks into one. I robbed another 460 out of another '86 and the C6, and trans axle, and the vinyl interior parts, dashboard, steering column, etc etc etc...and what I plan to do is take the cab off of my '86, put it on the lifted truck (which is also another '86), rebuild the motor/tranny/trans axle out of the other '86, and put that in the lifted truck. Since everything is bone stock, complete with cruise control and all that jazz, I'm sure I have the Duraspark in my current truck.
My dad is also pushing me to rather than futz with 30 year old wiring, and vaccum lines and the like...to get a Ron Francis wiring kit basically, aftermarket gauges, and re-wire the truck with brand new wires and everything. He also suggests I use Vintage Air in my truck, but the thing is that my truck came from the factory with A/C, so why not use what they had from the factory? 30 year old A/C parts won't be SO bad to use now would it?
30 year old A/C parts won't be SO bad to use now would it?
Start searching Craigslist for R12 Freon, that's likely going to be a significant challenge.
I agree with you and would rather use the R12 system that's already there, so long as it's working (or can easily be made to work) but it might not be worth it to you, you might want to convert to R134a. Do your homework here....
R12 sells on eBay for the same price as 134a sells for in the parts store, mainly due to the fact that R12 systems are becoming scarcer and scarcer. I switched over my 85 van to 134a with no difficulties, been going 6 years now with no issues. Just be sure to evacuate and use the correct oil. ~Bill
R12 sells on eBay for the same price as 134a sells for in the parts store, mainly due to the fact that R12 systems are becoming scarcer and scarcer. I switched over my 85 van to 134a with no difficulties, been going 6 years now with no issues. Just be sure to evacuate and use the correct oil. ~Bill
Can you post some links to R12 selling at the same price as R134a? Most R12 I see is at least twice as expensive....
Start searching Craigslist for R12 Freon, that's likely going to be a significant challenge.
I agree with you and would rather use the R12 system that's already there, so long as it's working (or can easily be made to work) but it might not be worth it to you, you might want to convert to R134a. Do your homework here....
I plan to replace all of the A/C with new stuff, or rebuilt stuff, so if it's 134a, not a big deal.
My dad bought bottle after bottle of R12 before it went bye bye years ago, so i'm good if I find R12 compressor/dryer/evaporator/etc...
I plan to replace all of the A/C with new stuff, or rebuilt stuff, so if it's 134a, not a big deal.
My dad bought bottle after bottle of R12 before it went bye bye years ago, so i'm good if I find R12 compressor/dryer/evaporator/etc...
You can reuse everything except the receiver/dryer. Just flush the system first and change out the O-rings-not a big deal, since if it's low on charge there's most likely a leaking O-ring somewhere anyway. Like I said, I changed over my van a while back and all has been fine since ~Bill