99-7.3 No Start after Inj-o-ring build
#1
99-7.3 No Start after Inj-o-ring build
Here's what I have:
1999 f350 dually 7.3 diesel SuperChipped and 4"exhaust
Torque Pro Scanner on a tablet (7.3 extended pids loaded)
Here's what happened:
Got error code bad glow plugs 2 and 3
Hard starting on cold morning (Montana)
Ran fine after warmed up but
fuel milages bad 9-10mpg.
Here's what I did:
Purchased Injector O-ring, Glow Plugs and valve cover gaskets
(no new wiring harness) from Diesel-O-Ring
Re-Oringed all injectors (one at a time)
Replaced all glow plugs
Reconnected all connectors
Valve cover and air intake/turbo plumbing is off.
Plugged in block heater
Removed all battery connector and cleaned, charged both batteries,
and checked specific gravity all good
Turned engine over by hand to prevent hydrolock
Topped off oil in HPOP
Big day, put the key in waited for the wait light to go off and cranked the engine. NO START. After about 10-20 seconds of cranking it tries to start and low pressure oil system comes up. Plenty of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe.
Checked glow plug relay and it was working, voltage on the glow plug side with KOEO
At this point I assumed I had screwed something up. So, rechecked all cable connections and loosened and re-tighten all injectors.
Still no start, same indications as above.
Hooked up my Torque scanner:
cranking RPM 150-200 rpm (dash tack does not show any RPM)
Battery voltage while cranking > 10vdc
injector control pressure >3000psi
pressure is up in less than 20 seconds of cranking
injector pulsewidth 3.1msec
ficm 47
no error codes
Wait light goes out
1999 f350 dually 7.3 diesel SuperChipped and 4"exhaust
Torque Pro Scanner on a tablet (7.3 extended pids loaded)
Here's what happened:
Got error code bad glow plugs 2 and 3
Hard starting on cold morning (Montana)
Ran fine after warmed up but
fuel milages bad 9-10mpg.
Here's what I did:
Purchased Injector O-ring, Glow Plugs and valve cover gaskets
(no new wiring harness) from Diesel-O-Ring
Re-Oringed all injectors (one at a time)
Replaced all glow plugs
Reconnected all connectors
Valve cover and air intake/turbo plumbing is off.
Plugged in block heater
Removed all battery connector and cleaned, charged both batteries,
and checked specific gravity all good
Turned engine over by hand to prevent hydrolock
Topped off oil in HPOP
Big day, put the key in waited for the wait light to go off and cranked the engine. NO START. After about 10-20 seconds of cranking it tries to start and low pressure oil system comes up. Plenty of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe.
Checked glow plug relay and it was working, voltage on the glow plug side with KOEO
At this point I assumed I had screwed something up. So, rechecked all cable connections and loosened and re-tighten all injectors.
Still no start, same indications as above.
Hooked up my Torque scanner:
cranking RPM 150-200 rpm (dash tack does not show any RPM)
Battery voltage while cranking > 10vdc
injector control pressure >3000psi
pressure is up in less than 20 seconds of cranking
injector pulsewidth 3.1msec
ficm 47
no error codes
Wait light goes out
#2
#3
#4
Sorry I forgot to mention I have cranked so much (with the same results)I have had to recharge the batteries twice. I would assume the injectors and fuel are working properly as i'm getting white smoke out the exhaust. This leaves the glow plugs, as they are all new and the relay is supplying voltage to them I am stumpped
#5
Sorry I forgot to mention that I have cranked so much that I have had to recharge my batteries twice. They have been charging overnight so I am on my way to my shop to try again and collect more data with Torque.
P.S. this site is really great for responding for help, let me thank all of now for help and I promise to keep all update as I trouble shoot this problem
P.S. this site is really great for responding for help, let me thank all of now for help and I promise to keep all update as I trouble shoot this problem
#7
HKusp
That's what I thought at first but I am getting RPM data via Torque (150-200rpm) which is confusing???
I also notice that the sputtering (trying to fire) does not start until the low pressure oil is up. I recharge both batteries over night and tried again to start, I have had a bad battery charger to add to my problem, fully charged and having same problem. I am on my way to my shop and will re-verify CPS. Last month I put a new water pump in so I might have screwed something up in and around the CPS
That's what I thought at first but I am getting RPM data via Torque (150-200rpm) which is confusing???
I also notice that the sputtering (trying to fire) does not start until the low pressure oil is up. I recharge both batteries over night and tried again to start, I have had a bad battery charger to add to my problem, fully charged and having same problem. I am on my way to my shop and will re-verify CPS. Last month I put a new water pump in so I might have screwed something up in and around the CPS
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#8
The icp only needs to be about 500, if you are seeing 3000 and up, that is strange. I know I am stating the obvious...something isn't right because that dang truck isn't starting.
The rpm's are plenty, battery really has to be above 10.5 for sure...hmmmm.
Check the batteries again and make sure you are north of 10.5 when cranking, but please do as Rich suggested and wait at least 45 seconds with the key in the on position before trying to start. It will allow the glow plugs more time to build heat.
The rpm's are plenty, battery really has to be above 10.5 for sure...hmmmm.
Check the batteries again and make sure you are north of 10.5 when cranking, but please do as Rich suggested and wait at least 45 seconds with the key in the on position before trying to start. It will allow the glow plugs more time to build heat.
#9
#10
Just read HKsup's Cold Start thread, great write up:
Any cold start problems I had prior to replacing O-rings was at -10 to -20 degrees, never had a problem above 0 degrees. If I plugged the truck in overnight had no problems.
I have new oil and filters (AMSOIL 5w/30w) been using Amsoil since engine was broke in.
My trucks sounds just like HKsup's first video.
Will re-check voltages
Any cold start problems I had prior to replacing O-rings was at -10 to -20 degrees, never had a problem above 0 degrees. If I plugged the truck in overnight had no problems.
I have new oil and filters (AMSOIL 5w/30w) been using Amsoil since engine was broke in.
My trucks sounds just like HKsup's first video.
Will re-check voltages
#11
See if it will start with the icp sensor unplugged. Doesn't make a whole lot of sense that it wont start if your getting smoke...
Could still be enough air trapped in the oil galleys to give a false reading ...
I have seen some truck require draining the batts a few times before they prime...
And some light off right away. Keep checking/filling the hpop res for good measure?
Could still be enough air trapped in the oil galleys to give a false reading ...
I have seen some truck require draining the batts a few times before they prime...
And some light off right away. Keep checking/filling the hpop res for good measure?
#12
Just got back from the shop
Measured voltage at the glow plug side of the GPR;
KOEO - 11.5vdc
KO cranking - 10.3
Battery voltage into the relay with key off - 12.6
Disconnected wire at the glow plug, KOEO = .001vdc
I think this might be a problem, now all I have to do is figure out how a California
GPR works and what I have to replace
Measured voltage at the glow plug side of the GPR;
KOEO - 11.5vdc
KO cranking - 10.3
Battery voltage into the relay with key off - 12.6
Disconnected wire at the glow plug, KOEO = .001vdc
I think this might be a problem, now all I have to do is figure out how a California
GPR works and what I have to replace
#13
See if it will start with the icp sensor unplugged. Doesn't make a whole lot of sense that it wont start if your getting smoke...
Could still be enough air trapped in the oil galleys to give a false reading ...
I have seen some truck require draining the batts a few times before they prime...
And some light off right away. Keep checking/filling the hpop res for good measure?
Could still be enough air trapped in the oil galleys to give a false reading ...
I have seen some truck require draining the batts a few times before they prime...
And some light off right away. Keep checking/filling the hpop res for good measure?
#15
taken from Wood-N-Things web page:
The California glow plug system is composed of solid state Glow Plug Control Module (GPCM), glow plugs and the associated wiring harness. The glow plug on-time is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and is a function of oil temperature, barometric pressure and battery voltage. The PCM enables the GPCM which drives the individual glow plugs. Glow plug on-time normally varies between 1 to 120 seconds. In addition to PCM control, the GPCM internally limits the glow plug operation to 180 seconds regardless of PCM commanded on-time. The power to the glow plugs is provided through the GPCM solid state drivers directly from the vehicle battery. The GPCM monitors and detects individual glow plug functionality, and the control and communication links to the PCM. The failures detected by the GPCM are passed to the PCM using a serial communication signal on the diagnostic line.
Here is the link to help troubleshoot.
https://sites.google.com/site/woodnt...ow-plug-system
The California glow plug system is composed of solid state Glow Plug Control Module (GPCM), glow plugs and the associated wiring harness. The glow plug on-time is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and is a function of oil temperature, barometric pressure and battery voltage. The PCM enables the GPCM which drives the individual glow plugs. Glow plug on-time normally varies between 1 to 120 seconds. In addition to PCM control, the GPCM internally limits the glow plug operation to 180 seconds regardless of PCM commanded on-time. The power to the glow plugs is provided through the GPCM solid state drivers directly from the vehicle battery. The GPCM monitors and detects individual glow plug functionality, and the control and communication links to the PCM. The failures detected by the GPCM are passed to the PCM using a serial communication signal on the diagnostic line.
Here is the link to help troubleshoot.
https://sites.google.com/site/woodnt...ow-plug-system