Zf6 clutch issues
#1
Zf6 clutch issues
I recently did a cab swap on my 99 psd, the cab was from an automatic and my truck has a 6 speed, after swapping everything over and hooking all the lines up i pushed the clutch in and it went right to the floor, it doesnt feel like there anything behind it just a pedal floating there, any ideas on whats causing this or how to fix it? i put the reservoir on and filled it up to the top and held it as high as it would go to try to get the air out of it but evidently it didnt work
#3
#4
I've never looked. Does the cab for the auto have a punch out plate you can stick the clutch master in?
How did you bleed the clutch hydraulics? The only success I've had trying to bleed them is to remove the clutch master from the firewall and let it hang so it's pointing down hill. Remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing, then remove the cap on the reservoir. Slowly pump the rod on the slave cylinder about 100 times (that's what felt like it took me) until you don't see any more bubbles coming up in the reservoir.
How did you bleed the clutch hydraulics? The only success I've had trying to bleed them is to remove the clutch master from the firewall and let it hang so it's pointing down hill. Remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing, then remove the cap on the reservoir. Slowly pump the rod on the slave cylinder about 100 times (that's what felt like it took me) until you don't see any more bubbles coming up in the reservoir.
#5
I've never looked. Does the cab for the auto have a punch out plate you can stick the clutch master in?
How did you bleed the clutch hydraulics? The only success I've had trying to bleed them is to remove the clutch master from the firewall and let it hang so it's pointing down hill. Remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing, then remove the cap on the reservoir. Slowly pump the rod on the slave cylinder about 100 times (that's what felt like it took me) until you don't see any more bubbles coming up in the reservoir.
How did you bleed the clutch hydraulics? The only success I've had trying to bleed them is to remove the clutch master from the firewall and let it hang so it's pointing down hill. Remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing, then remove the cap on the reservoir. Slowly pump the rod on the slave cylinder about 100 times (that's what felt like it took me) until you don't see any more bubbles coming up in the reservoir.
#6
You don't have to touch the transmission. The slave cylinder comes out of the bell housing with a 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Then just pull it out slowly. There's a plastic tip on the end of the slave rod that has wings that can hang up and cause the tip to fall off in the bell housing if you're not paying attention.
You might need a pair of channel locks to turn the slave cylinder, but it comes out of the bell housing quicker than you can get the plastic line off of it.
You might need a pair of channel locks to turn the slave cylinder, but it comes out of the bell housing quicker than you can get the plastic line off of it.
#7
You don't have to touch the transmission. The slave cylinder comes out of the bell housing with a 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Then just pull it out slowly. There's a plastic tip on the end of the slave rod that has wings that can hang up and cause the tip to fall off in the bell housing if you're not paying attention.
You might need a pair of channel locks to turn the slave cylinder, but it comes out of the bell housing quicker than you can get the plastic line off of it.
You might need a pair of channel locks to turn the slave cylinder, but it comes out of the bell housing quicker than you can get the plastic line off of it.
Trending Topics
#8
No, remove the rod going to the hydraulics from the clutch pedal. There's a plastic bushing in there. Stick a small flat screwdriver between the bushing and the rod sticking off the side of the clutch pedal and pull out. The bushing and rod should come off the pedal. Then remove the master from the firewall by giving it the same 1/4 turn and pull it into the engine bay. From there, point the master down hill and then do the bleed procedure.
#9
No, remove the rod going to the hydraulics from the clutch pedal. There's a plastic bushing in there. Stick a small flat screwdriver between the bushing and the rod sticking off the side of the clutch pedal and pull out. The bushing and rod should come off the pedal. Then remove the master from the firewall by giving it the same 1/4 turn and pull it into the engine bay. From there, point the master down hill and then do the bleed procedure.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
chrisginco
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
09-03-2012 07:53 PM
bigcrunch
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
03-06-2010 12:15 PM
Kymber
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
9
03-20-2007 07:17 PM