Need some advice
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,579
Likes: 5,611
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
I was thinking the same thing 250. It just isn't pumping right, simple as that. The hard starting issues began before the carrier, so I assumed that this would fix it. It sits and idles fine after you get it started. The fuel bowl on the pump will get an air pocket in it even with the line in a jug. I got new fuel line for the test. I put thread locker on the fittings, all of them. I did have to use a 1/8 90 with 1/8 female threads that accepts the 3/8 barb fitting. That's all I could get at the hardware store. All of it is sealed with thread locker. The hard start issue was fuel related to begin with is what I come up with. Guess it's my luck that I got one of the few bad pumps! I want to be certain before I try to get another one though. Thanks for the advice. It seems to be getting worse. I'm not driving it much at all, just mainly test runs. I can bleed it at the Shrader valve and the pump bowl will get an air pocket in it but not every time. That's what makes me think that the pump might be bad.
i think this may be your problem. the 1/8 fittings will cause a restriction that will not allow enough fuel to pass through to supply the engine at full throttle.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 132
From: Centerville TN
The inlet on the pump is 1/8" and all I can find is an 1/8" elbow that will accept a 3/8" barb with1/8" male threads. I wired my relay hot from the solenoid and switched it off the fss. I didn't splice it though, used a double spade connecter at the ip. I've lost power in the fss wire. Do you think that the carrier is not providing enough fuel for my ip? I have about an 80cc ip.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,579
Likes: 5,611
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
you need 1/2 pint fuel delivered in 10 seconds to the injector pump with 7 lbs static pressure engine not running.
i am not sure where the 94 FSS gets it power from, but i am pretty sure it is still on the same circuit as the fuel bowl heater like the older trucks. if the fuel bowl heater shorts out, it takes out power to the FSS.
try disconnecting the fuel bowl heater and check the fuse with a test light on both sides to make sure it is good. i have seen fuses that visually look good but test bad.
hook the test light alligator clip to ground, and stick the probe into the little metal tabs on the top of the fuse to check it. you should get power to both tabs. if not, the fuse is bad.
i am not sure where the 94 FSS gets it power from, but i am pretty sure it is still on the same circuit as the fuel bowl heater like the older trucks. if the fuel bowl heater shorts out, it takes out power to the FSS.
try disconnecting the fuel bowl heater and check the fuse with a test light on both sides to make sure it is good. i have seen fuses that visually look good but test bad.
hook the test light alligator clip to ground, and stick the probe into the little metal tabs on the top of the fuse to check it. you should get power to both tabs. if not, the fuse is bad.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 132
From: Centerville TN
Thanks tjc. I know there can be bad fuses, just got tired of it last night
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I went to town and picked up some more fittings. 1/8 to 3/8 elbow that has a compression seal like a brake line. The 1/8 end will screw into the pump and then it goes directly to 3/8 compression that accepts a 3/8 barb for the hose. That's the least restrictive way I can go. The pump has a 1/8 female thread in it, so I don't know anything else to get. If nothing else, I'm gonna run my fss off a toggle switch for now. I'm beginning to see what you mean about oil burners. The guys over there seem to be different. Not downing anyone, but fte has been the most helpful forum that I have been on. I have tried several of them too!
.I went to town and picked up some more fittings. 1/8 to 3/8 elbow that has a compression seal like a brake line. The 1/8 end will screw into the pump and then it goes directly to 3/8 compression that accepts a 3/8 barb for the hose. That's the least restrictive way I can go. The pump has a 1/8 female thread in it, so I don't know anything else to get. If nothing else, I'm gonna run my fss off a toggle switch for now. I'm beginning to see what you mean about oil burners. The guys over there seem to be different. Not downing anyone, but fte has been the most helpful forum that I have been on. I have tried several of them too!
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,579
Likes: 5,611
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
the only thing i have against oil burners is the few times i was there it was "do it my way or don't bother me"
the people here are a lot more civil and open to other ways of doing things than one persons stupid ideas being the god ending word.
the people here are a lot more civil and open to other ways of doing things than one persons stupid ideas being the god ending word.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 132
From: Centerville TN
Here is what I have right now. Change fittings and run a hose to a jug and hose to a bucket. 99% positive that there is no air sucking in this way!
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Centerville TN
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Centerville TN
It's fixed!!! For now. When my fss wire lost power last night I checked fuses. None looked bad. Did the test light check on the fuses this morning. Still none bad. But the stupid thing started working. Did more testing on my pump and lines, then it quit working again. So I ran another wire to power the fss and the carrier. Before that a bypassed the tank selector valve also. No more filter light! The truck idles better than it has in a long time and my egts seem to come up quicker. So I think this has been an issue for a while now. I also think that the carrier wasn't getting enough voltage from the bad wire. It had a short in it after further testing. The carrier sounds like it's running stronger with the new wire. I might hook both tanks back up later to see if thats a problem. But I see a one tank setup in the future. Thanks guys for all the help
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Another question, when I go wot and get up to speed and let off the throttle, it pulsates. That's with my foot completely off the pedal. What's that?
.Another question, when I go wot and get up to speed and let off the throttle, it pulsates. That's with my foot completely off the pedal. What's that?
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 298
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From: Saint Maries Idaho
The pulsating or surging is due to a small amount of air left in your high pressure injector lines. You can eliminate this issue by going through and cracking open each line as the engine is running. It doesn't take much air to cause the engine to surge.
I had the same issue with mine right after changing out my injectors, a couple minutes to crack all of the lines open and the problem was eliminated.
I had the same issue with mine right after changing out my injectors, a couple minutes to crack all of the lines open and the problem was eliminated.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 132
From: Centerville TN
The pulsating or surging is due to a small amount of air left in your high pressure injector lines. You can eliminate this issue by going through and cracking open each line as the engine is running. It doesn't take much air to cause the engine to surge.
I had the same issue with mine right after changing out my injectors, a couple minutes to crack all of the lines open and the problem was eliminated.
I had the same issue with mine right after changing out my injectors, a couple minutes to crack all of the lines open and the problem was eliminated.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 132
From: Centerville TN
More good news!
Went out and started my truck tonight, fired up great! It's been in the 20's all day today, so I figured that would be a good test. I think I can hold off on getting batteries for now.
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