Resealed all my fittings from my carrier all the way to my line going to the ip last night and bled the air at the shrader valve. It starts great. Took it up the road last night and still got the filter light at 2500rpms and up but it went off as soon as I backed off the throttle. Lingered on a bit before. Drove it to town today and got the filter light when I took off up a steep hill. Didn't get the light on the way back though, no matter how hard I tried. What's up with that?

 

Maybe the sensor's buggy?

 

there should be no need to bleed the system of air at all.at any point of the system with this fuel pump.i never do nor have under any circumstances.it should self purge.

there should be no air coming from the schrader valve nor anywhere else though.if you have air in the fuel system,you will need to find out where it's entering the system.
what happens now if you pump directly from a jug of diesel using a new hose?

remember this;
anyplace after the electric pump will be pushing.so the only leak there of concern would be fuel leaking.
before the electric pump will be pulling.....
your the fuel pump in this scenario;
just like you sucking on a straw.if you have a hole in a straw........ever get one with crack in it? can't draw up the drink very good can ya? in order to draw up the fluid,you need a solid,tight seal.
what happens if you fill you mouth and push fluid out through the same straw? no problems there.she'll shoot out through the hole and the end of the straw..........it's back to to the diesel jug test to temporarily rule out the tank(s) pickup(s)-lines-ftsv-hard lines to e-pump.
there can be 0% air entering e-pump.for safety and economy sake,there can't be any fuel holes after the e-pump.
after the e-pump is just like you not swallowing the drink.your keeping your throat closed,the same the e-pump does with its built in check valve.

thats ruled out because he has the matching symptoms of air (not only surging,but stalling out going down the road-least before the thread sealant, in place of locker) and a vacuum in the filter head causing the trigger of the light.he even see's the air in the see through bowl of the e-pump and out the valve.she's still pulling air from some place,that's for sure.

 

Sorry for any confusion.I only bled the air from the shrader valve before initial startup after sealing the suction side of the pump. There's no visible air in the fuel bowl and it starts better than I remember it has since I've had it. The filter light quit coming on before I got home last night. Was just wandering what could have been causing the light to come on for that short of period.

 

More problems today. I'm going to figure this out tomorrow. I'll post up when I get it. Thanks for all the help.

 

fun times there with the good old leaky idi. you'll get 'er.well now at least you don't see anymore air bubbles in the pumps bowl.that's a good start.i wonder if you got a bad fitting or just a dud pump.will be interesting to see what you find out.

 

Well, it's acting up again, not near as bad though. It seems to be before the pump. Gonna check my fuel lines going to the tank. It's doing it even with a full tank, so it's gotta be fuel line, selector valve, or pump. I don't think that it's the e-pump because it pulled great after I sealed the fitting on the suction side. Unless it starts off good then craps out. Can't really see whats going on in the fuel bowl while driving! More investigating

 

has to be near the tank.

 

Think I've narrowed it down.
Forgive the narrator. He's got a little southern slang!

 

so hows things going? what ya finding out? looks like the pump is working good once it purges the air and fills up.did you try using some soapy water on and around the inlet fitting/clamp? it appears to be fine there with what can be seen anyway so the issue is likely tank to pump someplace.

what's still odd about that though,is that the fuel filter light didn't flicker using the oem mechanical pump right?

 

The filter light never came on with the mechanical pump. I don't think it's the fitting because when I take the fuel line loose from the diesel jug, you can hear it pulling air around the rubber line when you work it off the barb fitting. So if the fitting was pulling air the rubber line shouldn't be able to hold fuel, right? Also, if I depress the shrader valve while the pump is running, air will come out when first starting and the fuel in the pump bowl goes down fast. Is that normal?

 

Another thing. The carrier pump should eliminate all air, correct? Even if the diesel jug is in play, you can bleed air from the shrader valve even after the pump is on for a few. After the truck has started, it starts fine.

 

Finally did some more investigating. Since it does it with both tanks, it took the fuel line off at the tank switch that goes to the carrier. Put a little air on it and no leaks. With the engine not running, I'm getting right at 5psi at the shrader valve when the carrier is on. With the engine at idle, I get nothing. Not even any fuel out of the shrader valve. I'm thinking that I have a weak pump. What do you guys think? Any other tests that I can do? I realize that it could still be the fuel tank switch or something back there. I'm gonna get enough new fuel line to run into a diesel jug in the bed tomorrow just to eliminate other fuel lines. Could this possibly be an ip issue? Might be a stupid question, but I'm running outa ideas here!

 

Another problem. It was idling in the drive and I was messing with the shrader valve, then it dies. Thought I just put air in it. Come to find out, the fss wire lost power. The fss works with a hot wire. Didn't find any fuses blown and of course my pumps not working because I wired it like the oil burners link said. I didn't splice the wire either. Tried messing with the ignition switch with no luck. I'm ready to burn my truck!

 

your tank selector valve could be the air leak source, try hooking to one of the tanks eliminating the tank selector, Warning. the selector also switches the return line, to the appropriate tank, carful or you could send the return to the wrong tank, and make a mess