installing a pully and balancer.

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Feb 19, 2014 | 11:06 AM

#31

Zac2zac2

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Jefffafa, representin phx!!! thanks bud, Yea i was thinking of getting the 3 sheave! my 2 belts now are 3/8 any way. I will cal n get the part now!

Feb 19, 2014 | 11:33 AM

#32

Zac2zac2

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Feb 19, 2014 | 11:49 AM

#33

NumberDummy

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From: Simi Valley, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zac2zac2

C8AE-6312-B actually I think this is the ID number. I'll prolly get it off ebay. They got pics.

Marked with ID engineering number: C8AE-6312-B = Ford part number: C8AZ-6A312-B .. Triple Sheave Outer Pulley / Obsolete

7 5/32" (2) inner sheave diameters / 7 13/16" outer sheave diameter / 2 7/32" long / Uses 3/8" belts on inner sheaves & 1/2" belt on outer sheave.

1968/71 F100/250 2WD & F350 360/390 with P/S & A/C / 1968/71 F100/250 4WD 360 with A/C // 1968 Galaxie/LTD/Fairlane/Torino/Mustang/Cougar 390 2V with A/C / 1968 Galaxie/LTD 428 with A/C

Feb 19, 2014 | 12:40 PM

#34

Zac2zac2

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Thanks number!!! I think thats the best choice, I did the math on the after market pulleys and it would have been approximately 25% less electrical output. they are like 5.6 in diameter compared to 7.25 on the part above. This would mean that for every rpm The belts would spin 1.7 in or so less electrical output at the benefit of 15 hp. Idk if my truck is using or able to capture the extra energy or not, but additionally, Id rather have to much then no enough. Considering the part number above also contains an extra spindle for a a/c with an even larger spindle, or sheave then the math calculated above. I would think that ford knows what the truck would need so itd prolly needds the energy for the ac. Being in az It is something i am gana do after I buy my house

. which is where ill sup of the monster! dr. Frankenstein laboratory if you may. lol thanks guys. I did alot of research. Learned alot.

Feb 23, 2014 | 06:48 PM

#35

Zac2zac2

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It's terrible. Okay, so now white smoke is BILLOWING out I my passenger side tail pipe n the truck is run in like shiiitt.. It may have over heated n cracked? Idk, I can't get a break right now. It runs but super sluggish n vibrates alot. This **** is rough

Feb 23, 2014 | 07:00 PM

#36

Zac2zac2

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From what I've read it's prolly the heads. :/ how can I tell? Ill read more

Feb 23, 2014 | 07:36 PM

#37

orich

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From: **** hole San Jose ca.

Check coolant for bubbles & oil, check for low Compassion, Check spark plugs for wet oil fouled, Check oil for coolant. is all good places to start.
orich

Feb 24, 2014 | 06:52 PM

#38

Zac2zac2

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Deal
Orich, U are are amaizngly helpfull and I would just like to say thank you! I have looked at coolant and the top had like Brownish fluid. Rust, maybe maybe oil. I got an oil change kit and will pull the oil tmrw. from what I have read milky white would mean that it is coolant in the oil. But your advice had been on point! those bolt sizes where right on the pulley!!!! thanks. I think you ment compression? I rented a compression tool from autozone, but I am not 100% on what I am looking for.... I plug it into the spark plug holes n measure the pressure, will I notice a Large decline in the pressure? I am pretty sure its ganna have terrible results, but ill record it. lol last thing... down to the real, the meat of it all, How do I know what I ****ed up??!! Is it the block, in which case shoot me? Is it the gaskets, Which are alluminum and IDk how that works
? or is it the real mother ****in deal, the headds and I gotta get some heads at a junkyard cause I cant afford 700 heads? how do I tell what it is?

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Feb 24, 2014 | 09:53 PM

#39

orich

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From: **** hole San Jose ca.

By chance did you over heat the truck engine any to cause all this to start the white steam coming out the exh. pipe??

This should help some what for an understanding of a cc test.
A compression test reveals the condition of your engine's valves, its valve seats, and piston rings and whether these parts are wearing evenly. Healthy engines should have compression over 100 psi per cylinder, with no more than 10 percent variation between the highest and lowest readings. With a compression tester, a few hand tools, and 20 minutes, you can try this yourself.

STEP 1 Remove the fuel pump and fuel-injection fuses. Disconnect the main wire to the coil and spark plug wires; remove spark plugs.

STEP 2 Start the threaded end of the compression gauge in a spark plug hole by hand.

STEP 3 Turn the ignition on, depress the throttle, and crank the engine four revolutions. This should result in a stable reading; if not, crank up to 10 revolutions, but do the same with all cylinders.

STEP 4 Mark the pressure reading for each cylinder on the valve cover in chalk, then move to the next cylinder.

TIP For a cylinder below 100 psi, pour 1 teaspoon of engine oil into the plug hole and retest. If the reading jumps, the piston rings are worn. If not, think valve problems.

Read more: Cars 101: How to Do a Compression Test - Popular Mechanics
Follow us: @PopMech on Twitter | popularmechanics on Facebook
Visit us at PopularMechanics.com
Go on youtube and do a search on doing a CC test

You could have cracked a head, block, or bad Head gasket.
If you have two cylinders that are side by side low psi and maybe wet oily plugs chances are those two are blown gasket.

The real find is close inspection when removing one part at a time looking it over good for any gasket damage first.

Oil floats on water an coolant so it would be the first thing out when removing the oil drain plug.= Milky foam looking crap then the oil if you drove it much.

An over heated engine will have in the a radiator some brown rusty and maybe milky oily if head gasket starting to leak near a oil feed or return,
near a water jacket that seeps into the cooling system.

If over heated the Auto trans fluid will smell burnt. This has to be flushed out change filter.
If it wasn't over heated to the point to do any damage..

Now's the good time to buy a motor manual for your truck.

1972 was the first yr. for the fe 360,390 motors to get harden exh. seats
So these heads will have a casting number between the two center spark plugs.
These heads have D2TE,D3TE,D4TE,D5TE this is for each yr up to like D6TE These letters & numbers is D2=1972 the T=Truck E= engine
as the way, I understand it.

Heads with these numbers are the one's you'll need. Their's 4+ other number following these but this are the main ones you want
orich

Feb 25, 2014 | 10:36 AM

#40

Zac2zac2

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Defiantly over heated when belts flew off

Feb 25, 2014 | 10:46 AM

#41

JEFFFAFA

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From: Phoenix, Az.

Prolly head gasket. Did you get a different damper pulley yet? I think if you go bigger damper pulley You might have to go smaller W/P pulley. Measure what you got and see if a bigger damper pulley wound hit your W/P pulley.

Feb 25, 2014 | 03:02 PM

#42

Zac2zac2

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You are on the right track jeff, The outer puelly for the a/c was to large. bur fortunately it made the clearance. The other two were just right as far as size.

Feb 27, 2014 | 04:45 PM

#43

Zac2zac2

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Dude MY gf Left me stuck without a car n the bat was dead so I took it to a shop, They told me the engines ****ed, Basically. I took it in for compression test and I haven't received the results. I asked them how the test was and they said I need a new engine. they didnt have the numbers when I asked, they said theyd get me the numbers from the compression test and haven't done so yet. I feel they might be sketch, They said the reason they thought I needed a new engine was because there was LOw fuel pressure and Compression, To which i responded, well how low? they couldnt say... I drove it there It had a bad shake when driving and stopped at a light but the shake lessend when in nutrual. I am pretty pissed. they said the test would be 100 bucks. and itd be done tue. I still dont have results n think I may go in and tell them **** off. I feel that Theyll just make some bs numbers up.