Rear U-joint disintegrated
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
Rear U-joint disintegrated
Yep, just yesterday that happened to me, one of the 2 joints to the rear cardon in the double joint (near the T/C) grenaded on me. I think it's called the H yoke. Now, I can't remove the bolts that hold the double joint (H yoke) to the T/C because I don't have the proper size Allen wrench, is there any other possible way to do it? I'm thinking a big Torx socket and wrench. Do any of you guys know the proper size? and what about the U-joint?. My truck uses a Dana 44 rear, which could lead to some sizes being different, but I think the u-joint up there are the same as in the 8.8".
Btw, I took the cardon off, put the thing in 4WD and drove home... How I LOVE 4WD.
Btw, I took the cardon off, put the thing in 4WD and drove home... How I LOVE 4WD.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
No it doesn't it has an 8.8, the front axle is a D44. And if I'm not mistaken you need 12 point sockets to remove the U-joint flange.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 923
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From: North Central MA
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sx...FRRo7AodKBsALg in snap on ... that was the quickest link I could find.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,635
Likes: 3
From: Lansdale, PA
They are not 1/2" 12 point. They are 12mm
Take a 12mm wrench and hit it with a hammer to remove the bolts. I've bent so many wrenches and had to fix so many stripped bolts because they are super tight and someone used the wrong wrench.
Take a 12mm wrench and hit it with a hammer to remove the bolts. I've bent so many wrenches and had to fix so many stripped bolts because they are super tight and someone used the wrong wrench.
Thread Starter
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
My Bronco, assembled in Venezuela has a Dana 44 rear, I can tell the difference between a Dana 44 and a 8.8, hence my comment in my first post. And sadly, no 12 point sockets on that flange. I'll upload some pics I took today.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,635
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From: Lansdale, PA
Wow. Venezuela. I didn't even look at your location until just now.
How hard is it to find parts. What is the fuel price there. Is the rear axle original or swapped in. What does your door tag read. Our repair manuals don't show anything for a d44 rear axle.
How hard is it to find parts. What is the fuel price there. Is the rear axle original or swapped in. What does your door tag read. Our repair manuals don't show anything for a d44 rear axle.
Thread Starter
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
It can be either quite easy or quite complicated, but it sure is way harder than in the US, fuel price... I fill up 3/4 of my 33gal tank for about $0.06. The rear came factory, they also assembled Broncos with the usual US setup, using the 8.8, and we also got factory 2WD Broncos here too. I might need to ask the older model crowds since some of these used the Dana 44.
For those who still want to put the finger in the wound...
For those who still want to put the finger in the wound...
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,635
Likes: 3
From: Lansdale, PA
Wow. Never seen that in person before. Cool.
Back to original question...
I've used torx bits and Allen bits before. Just find one that fits tight into the head and try it easy. Use some heat if you have a propane or map gas torch. Another trick I'd to hit the head of the bolt or the side of the flange to loosen the threads a little.
As far as needing to replace the cardan joint, you don't need it. The bronco has a short driveshaft and they like to use the double cardan on it, but it's not needed. If yours is damaged, you can use something else or get one made.
The cardan joint uses a ball and socket to keep the two ujoints at same angle and if it gets damaged, they are expensive to replace. Hopefully yours is ok.
Back to original question...
I've used torx bits and Allen bits before. Just find one that fits tight into the head and try it easy. Use some heat if you have a propane or map gas torch. Another trick I'd to hit the head of the bolt or the side of the flange to loosen the threads a little.
As far as needing to replace the cardan joint, you don't need it. The bronco has a short driveshaft and they like to use the double cardan on it, but it's not needed. If yours is damaged, you can use something else or get one made.
The cardan joint uses a ball and socket to keep the two ujoints at same angle and if it gets damaged, they are expensive to replace. Hopefully yours is ok.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,635
Likes: 3
From: Lansdale, PA
The double cardan uses the standard 1310 or 1330 unjoint I thought.
You bring the cardan joint to the parts store and I'm sure they can measure it and get you one to fit. I've done that a number of times.
You bring the cardan joint to the parts store and I'm sure they can measure it and get you one to fit. I've done that a number of times.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 709
Likes: 2
I just rebuilt the rear driveline in my 85.
In my 85 and 86 ..that bolt head is a 5/16" 12 point socket.
I just rebuilt the cardon joint...in o'reilly terms..the u joint is a precision 270 (2). you may need the ball socket part as well JBG has them, o'reilly does too...they are a bummer to work on..but very doable. take it apart from the front and re-assemble in reverse order.
I just rebuilt the cardon joint...in o'reilly terms..the u joint is a precision 270 (2). you may need the ball socket part as well JBG has them, o'reilly does too...they are a bummer to work on..but very doable. take it apart from the front and re-assemble in reverse order.
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
By 1310 and 1330 what exactly do you mean? Is that a size or measure? Of what? Researching in the net I've found those numbers mentioned a lot... I bought the u-joint today, the guy literally told me "all the Broncos around here use those". Precision 433, with a grease zerk in the body.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,728
Likes: 8
From: Cleveland, TN
By 1310 and 1330 what exactly do you mean? Is that a size or measure? Of what? Researching in the net I've found those numbers mentioned a lot... I bought the u-joint today, the guy literally told me "all the Broncos around here use those". Precision 433, with a grease zerk in the body.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,635
Likes: 3
From: Lansdale, PA
On the double cardan you'll need the grease cups, not the zerks. They either go in the cap or the body. I don't think you'll get your grease gun into the big h section of the cardan joint if you put the zerk in there.
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The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 20
From: Caracas, Venezuela
I might have stated that wrong, grease cups then, and they're in the body. And I have bad news, the H yoke is too mangled to be re-used without major surgery (I prefer getting a junkyard/new unit) and the CV joint lost the internal roller pins, so I'm screwed. Is getting a greaseable replacement an option? both parts are Spicer units. Any part numbers you guys can share?.