So after some driving time in the new truck, some little things are bothering me. Hopefully I can get knowledge out of FTE!

Okay so here's what im working with...
1979 f150 ranger
400 with an unknown lopey cam
650cfm carb
Aluminum intake
Long tube headers w/true duals
Dana 44 front 9" rear. TracLoc front Detroit rear 4.56 gears
6" lift 33x12.5" tires
78,xxx miles on the body
Unknown 4 speed tranny with granny 1st
VIn- F14HLDE2025
I think that should cover all truck info..

Some little things that bother me

1: The trans grinds a bit when shifting from 4th into 3rd. Is this just an old transmission or should I be adjusting the clutch?

2: When idling the truck usually reads at 400-500rpm. But the truck dies really easy when making turns or sitting at a stop light. Is the idle set too low? The carb has only been on for less than 100 miles so I expect it needs some fine tuning. It seems to idle down so far it cuts its self off.

3: The brakes on this truck are..well.. freighting! My mechanic told me that the because the cam lopes so much it fails to create much vacuum to power the brakes? What can mend this problem.

4: The steering has about a half turn of play. What are the options for steering box rebuilds/replacements?


Thank you for all the information I know will come!

 

Trans,, You could try changing/adding gear oil and see if it helps. Someone will have a better answer there.

IIRC, idle should be around the 750-900 area. Seems like that's what I remember.

Brakes,, make sure your calipers/pads/lines are all good and there is plenty of fluid. Not sure on how to get more vac.

Steering,, There are a ton of things that could cause slop. Jack up the front end and track down where the slop is and go from there.

 

My truck is very similar to yours, except I have a 4" lift and an auto trans. I had the same 1/2 turn of play in my steering as well.
I installed a redhead gearbox and I am down to 1/4 turn of play. I still need a drag link and axle track bushings. I had a thread posted earlier this week about this and one of the fellas said those axle track bushings are often extremely worn

 

Sounds like I will have to chase the steering system. I will probably start with bushings and go from there. Thanks guys!

 

If cam has that much overlap that vacuum is low,you can get an electric vacuum pump . And that is about the only remedy.

 

I've seen belt driven vacuum pumps as well, but I can't remember where.

Maybe some-one else will know.

 

1. try adjusting clutch, ig you are at the end of the rod, and that's a no go, might be the synchro's inside the trans are worn.
2. yes bump the idle up a bit, ck timing first, then a just carb.
3. brakes, follow great advice already given, (I am making notes for myself on those)
4. steering...ck rag joint, steering box, steering box input shaft play, pitman arm/steering out put shaft play, tie rods, track bar bushings, radius arm bushings.

Trans info for you, thanks ND.

NP435 = aluminum top cover w/8 bolts

T-18 = cast iron top cover w/6 bolts
Warranty Plate TRANS code: A = NP435 (N-1965 only) / F = Warner T-18 / P = F350 Warner T-19.

Warner shift lever retainer cap (8MTH-7220) threads on/off.
NP435 shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D) has two notches, is retained to shift tower by two pins.

To remove this cap, it must be pressed down and held down while turning it to remove it.
People unaware use pliers or channel locks to remove it, which tears out one or both of the notches. Not pleasant! Now they aren't going anywhere.

Originally NP435: Reverse-down towards the seat while Warner T-18: Reverse-up towards the dash.
The reverse shift pattern was changed circa 1973, but I can't recall for which of these 4 speeds.
Note: There's another 4 speed: RUG SR-OD Single Rail 4 Speed Overdrive introduced in 1978 F100/150 300/302, TRANS code B

 

What does "at the end of the rod" mean? Also, how do I adjust the clutch? Hopefully nothing too bad is going on..

What should these trucks idle at? 750-900?

My reverse is all the way to the right and up to the dash so im guessing a t18 for now.

 

OOPS I remembered wrong.. I drove the truck again today and reverse is right and towards the seat. So that means its an np435?

 

See the rod? That is what I am talking about, where is your's set now? Lets see if I remember right, the book says alot about clutch pedal length ect....

If your clutch is not fully disengaging and allowing you to put it in gear smoothly, it could be worn. So you need to (lengthen) the rod to make the clutch depress more and come further away from the flywheel.

Or I am wrong and it goes the other way, shorten it....50/50 chance, its been quite a while since I have been under there. Make sure you use 2 nuts in a lock nut set up.

I always confuse it until I am under there and I still might be? Look at your's now, make a few turn adjustment and see if it help's or got worse, if it help's right track, if its worse, wrong way, adjust back to were it was and go the other direction.

Report what works, for my bad memory.

 

Thank you for the pictures! I have a much better idea now! I'll try to pull the truck in the garage and take a look since its cold out. The garage is 83" tall and the tuck is 80"... hmm lets see how this plays out

 

I take pics so I can remember how things go back together. lol 3" to spare, just hold your breath and or a little tire pressure out....you know air down.

 

IT FIT!!

okay so I found that rod and it does have space to be adjusted, but that will come later.

I adjusted the idle screw so it now sits at 800rpm. The next test drive will show if it really mended the dying problem.

I found a new problem
While under the truck inspecting I noticed that quite a few things on the rear drivers side are wet with a light brown oil. It seems to be slinging from the driver side rear brake drum and even leaking out of the drum while siting. The whole tire is soaked in fluid.
The mechanic said he fixed a weeping axle seal while doing the diff. Could this seal have blown out?

 

In another similarity I had to get the rear axle seals replaced for the same reason. I had them put bearings on because it was apart anyway

 

Evidently not....how long ago did he do it? 9" axle....blown axle seal I doubt it, but you never know.

Careful you can leak it all out and burn up that rearend, same for a pinion seal that's bad. Ask earthquake1968 about that, he now has my spare D60 rear and 8 lug front hubs on Alice.

That is an ASAFP (as soon a friggin possible repair). 9" rear let me see... you might have a groove in your axle shaft. You can "Spedi Sleeve" repair it.

Are you sure it axle lube and not dirty brake fluid? Wheel cylinder (brake cylinder) can leak.

Better make a point to get under it more often, than every 3000 for a oil change/running gear lube.