Brute - You make a very good point, and one I'd missed. I knew that flat-tappet cams cause the cam to push hard against the block. And, I knew that roller cams don't do that. But I'd not put it together to realize the Torrington bearing isn't needed. Thanks.

As for drilling the gallery plug, thanks for that input as well. I'm still thinking about that and hope to ask Tim about it as well.

On the distributor bearing, I don't think a mod is needed. Here is a close-up of the oil passage from the #1 cam bearing to the distributor's bearing in the block. The passage starts out as 3/16" but narrows down to 5/32" before getting to the bearing. But that looks to be plenty to keep the dizzy's shaft well oiled.



And here's a wider view of the #1 bearing. You can just make out the passage to the distributor bearing at the 3:30 position.

 

Gary, you're welcome, we are all learning here.

I'm more concerned about the gear then the bearing. Again a lot will depend on your camshaft choice but some roller cams can be rather sensitive to the wear from the distributor gear. Some cams for example will require a bronze gear, in that case your basically deciding to wear out the gear on the distributor instead of the cam, which of course is always a good choice it's cheaper and easier to replace. Ya just plan on replacing your distributor gear as a tune up/maintenance item like you would spark plugs or belts.

Anywho I figured more oil on the gear would be a good thing. Which leads me to this.

This is a great pic, shows me how set back the drivers side lifter oil galley plug is and completely changes my suggestions. It looks like a hole in the drivers side galley plug wouldn't oil the timing chain it would oil the distributor gear. A hole in the passenger side one would oil the chain.

I'm curious to see two things, the distributor in the block, and the cam retention plate. I'm thinking two things, that if the distributor gear is in the right spot in relation to the galley plug for a hole in it to lube the gear. And I'm thinking a groove in the back of the cam retention plate would help move oil from the front cam bearing to the timing chain instead of just to the pan.

 

Some of you know that I messed up and moved my snap-gauges into the oil filter adaptor and it expanded and wouldn't come out. I tried several things but couldn't get it out so pulled the adaptor today. That got it out, but ruined the adaptor. This is only my $40 block, not Dad's, but I will want to get another as I'm sure I'll mess up the one on Dad's block removing it.

Anyway, that got me a close look at the exit into the block behind the adaptor. It takes off to the side with a very sharp edge to the hole. And, there's no flair on the exit of the adaptor, so the oil has to make a sharp bend and that edge surely causes a lot of turbulence, reducing the flow. I'm planning to radius the entry into the block to reduce the turbulence. And, to flare the outlet of the adaptor so that the oil can make the bend much easier.

Here's a shot of the adaptor, ruined by the pipe wrench, as well as a fair view of the outlet and the inlet.




This is a bit better showing the outlet, but it still isn't very good. In any event, the entrance to the passage is extremely sharp.




This one shows the inlet to the oil filter area - quite sharp. So I'll radius that in an effort to let the oil flow easier and better.

 

Brute - Good points. I don't think I'm too enamored with drilling two holes, especially one in the passenger's side where the higher pressure is. But I could be persuaded to drill one in the driver's side plug to oil the gears. I think that's an excellent idea.

I'll see about getting some pics tomorrow of the cam plate and the dizzy in the block. Thanks.

 

I agree, I don't think it's worth it to drill a hole in the passenger side plug, that passage is too critical.

 

No comments about the oil filter adaptor? I've not seen you pass on anything.

 

Ha ha, nahhhh not much to it, drill it out, chamfer it, bing bang boom done.

I think the single biggest thing to be done there is to make the overall inside diameter larger. But only so much can be done and still hang a stock filter off it. So unless you want to visit the idea of changing up the filter mounting it's just drilling and grinding just as in the link posted earlier.

I think it's worth looking into but you are staying rather stock as this stuff is concerned right?

 

Yes, I'm staying stock there. But I think there's enough meat to open it up just a bit, as in that link you mentioned, although it still needs to be strong so I can't go overboard.

However, I think I'll chuck the adaptor in the lathe and relieve the bottom end quite a bit as there's massive meat in there so there's nothing to lose. That'll let the oil set up for the turn into the block.

 

Here's a shot of the dizzy in and you can see that the driver's side gallery plug is behind but slightly to the outside of the center of the shaft.



And from this shot it looks to me like the plug is in an ideal situation to hit not only the dizzy's gear but also splash all over the timing chain.



And, on another topic, here's a shot of the oil pickup out of the $40 400, top, and Dad's M. There are two major differences:

1. The 400 unit is shorter. I'll check the oil pans, but this one is too short.
2. The pickup on Dad's is mostly covered.

The 400 unit is a D7TE-6622-AB, which would say it was engineered in '77, while Dad's is E0TE-6622-AA. Oddly enough, the parts catalog says that all 80 - 82 M/400's should have an E0TZ-6622-C. So, has anyone else see the pickup that covered up? Why?

 

IIRC my pickup element was covered up like that - and the screen was keeping out significant chunks of RTV some PO had infused into the thing during his "rebuild."

IIRC the pan on my truck is from a sedan and is only 5 qt., not sure about the oil pickup tube device but I remember needing to do some adaptation to parts in that area (because of the Frankenmotor I have).

 

Great pics, that really helps and it certainly sounds like we are getting a handle on these details.

Question are those groves in the cam retention plate on both sides? I got a good idea there, really easy to do but don't think I can explain the reasoning without a drawing.

The oil pickup, the cover is better, let's see if I can explain why. You want a large pickup screen, over the years crap is going to get in there and the bigger the screen the better. But a bigger pickup area is not better, it's sucking right there, think of it like a straw getting the very last of a milkshake. If you have straw that is 1" diameter you'll never get the last bit cause it's much more likely to suck air instead of shake. So for the same reason the pickup without the cover I much more likely to suck air instead of oil under high RPM acceleration, cornering, etc.

So of the two use the covered one and ensure that it's even/parallel with the bottom of the pan and 1/4-1/2" from the bottom.

Just had an idea on that, never tried it, never seen it done, but think I'll try it next time. Use a magnet as a spacer, try and find a decent magnet that's like 1/4"-1/2" think and like 1" around and put it between the pan and the pickup. This would both ensure the space is always good and that any metal is picked up. The simple truth is the over the years there is a good chance that some moron will put a jack under the pan, this can bend the pan up against the pickup blocking the flow. A spacer there would ensure that if the pan is bent up, so it the pickup maintaining the space.

EDIT, jut found this pic, kinda the right idea, this pickup has a spacer already, and the article that went with this pic has no mention of using the magnet as a spacer. People have been using magnets for years in pans and mostly on drain plugs, nothing new there. That was the reasoning behind this article. I'm just adding the thought that the magnet should be in contact with both the pickup and the pan.




x

 

Chris - Thanks. This one's gonna be mostly Dad's, meaning I'll go with the original pan, oil pickup, etc.

Brute - That makes sense about the pickup being covered. Good explanation.

Yes, the cam retainer is grooved on both sides. What are you thinking?

As for the magnet, I like that plan but just want to make sure that the magnet can't move.

 

Who would jack up an engine by the oil pan?!? I can barely think of anything that stupid to do to a truck

Also, as far as drilling the driver's side gallery plug to give the dizzy gear and timing chain oil, I wonder how thick it is. If its thick enough you could drill it at an angle so it would spray oil towards the middle of the dizzy shaft instead of straight out. Just an idea, don't know how well it would work.

 

I'll check the thickness tomorrow, but these are hex-drive plugs so they aren't all that thick in the center. However, drilling at an angle assumes you know how far it is going to go in before stopping. I'm thinking it would be plenty good enough to have a stream coming out straight. I doubt it would be a clean stream, probably more of a shower, which would get the dizzy gear as well as the timing chain and sprocket. Or, if it is a straight stream then it'll be bouncing off of the sprocket and oil would go everywhere.

 

Ok the cam retainer idea, lets see if I can get this across with out making up a pic.

So if we think about the oil on the front cam bearing and how it stick lubes both the cam thrust surface and the timing chain the path isn't that good. The oil has to build up on the front of the cam, somehow move in against the centrifugal force and shear forces, out between the cam and cam retainer, then out against the timing gear. Well all that isn't going to get a lot of oil out there.

So what if you drilled a small hole in the cam retention plate towards the top and at the same level as the cam bearing(right about where that shinny spot is below the top bolt). Then oil could come off the lowest pressure portion of the cam bearing, flow through the hole and lube both the outer thrust surface and the chain more directly.

On the subject of the plug, hole, oiling the dizzy etc. How about instead of a plug with a hole put in a pipe to double flare adapter. Then attach a small piece of 3/16 stainless steal (brake)line pinched off at the end to make a directed squirter pointed right where you want. Picture like a windshield squirter. Squirters like this are often used in diesels to lube and cool pistons and in performance engines to help lube the valvetrain. I've never seen one used exactly like I'm thinking but don't see why not. Tht is unless there just plane isn't enough room.