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Today I finished my 302 roller cam conversion on my '89 E150.
It started right up, ran for about 10 seconds and suddenly died without any strange noise.
I saw that the distributor had moved and might be out of timing.
Long story short:
The crank is cranking, but the cam not camming
There must be a fault at the (new) timing chain.
Until I remove the timing cover, my biggest concern is:
Is there enough valve clearance, so the Valves don't hit the Pistons?
I'm worrying about my valves and heads.
The Camshaft is a CompCam 35-12-8 and I have 1.6 roller rockers
P-V clearance is not a problem with the lift and duration that cam produces, it's about the same as the HO cam with 1.7 rockers which is a common bolt-on for the Mustang guys, and the cam I have in my '90 truck motor produces even more lift and duration and it's been running problem free for years.
Hard to believe a new chain would break. I'd suspect the camshaft pin as the culprit, this pin needs to have a press fit once it's in the hole (cam) it should not move at all. The cam bolt needs to be torqued to 45 ft/lbs
P-V clearance is not a problem with the lift and duration that cam produces, it's about the same as the HO cam with 1.7 rockers which is a common bolt-on for the Mustang guys, and the cam I have in my '90 truck motor produces even more lift and duration and it's been running problem free for years.
Isn't the SBF still an interference engine just like the SBC ?
Hard to believe a new chain would break. I'd suspect the camshaft pin as the culprit, this pin needs to have a press fit once it's in the hole (cam) it should not move at all. The cam bolt needs to be torqued to 45 ft/lbs
I suspect it was not installed correctly, that kind of stuff just don't happen when it's put together right..
Hard to believe a new chain would break. I'd suspect the camshaft pin as the culprit, this pin needs to have a press fit once it's in the hole (cam) it should not move at all. The cam bolt needs to be torqued to 45 ft/lbs
I don't know what exactly was the torque I used - all I know is that it was what in my Haynes Manual stands.
The camshaft pin is the most likely propability.
What bothered me was that when I tried to push the pin till the bottom of the camshaft hole, the trapped air inside was pushing it back out
It was similiar on the old cam - but there was a "plop" from a vacuum when i pulled it out.
I din't re-use the old one, I just wanted to know the length because the CompCam came with 2 new pins - 1 long and 1 short.
There was the short one in it and I tried to get the long one in, bit it didn't fit.
Ain't the air pushing it back out, it's the trapped oil. Should be a press fit (tight) that prevents this. The cam bolt washer would prevent the pin from popping outta the hole, maybe you left the washer off the bolt ? The long pin is used to drive the 1 piece mech fuel pump eccentric. The shorter one is used with the 2 pc eccentric and the stamped steel "counterweight" piece that came with the EFI motors. I say "counterweight' as I'm not sure really what that part was intended to do, it's too light weight to be a counterweight although it looks like one. Could possibly be for a camshaft sensor, although I've seen them used in pre Explorer applications.
It really bothered me not to know what happened - so I took the timing cover off.
The Pin and the Bolt snapped.
I did not have another screw that fitted into the camshaft, so I could not try to spin it.
But I guess it acted as a failsafe and something is blocking the cam.
Probably a "Dogbone" went off the "Spider" and now a lifter is jamming the cam.
My next step is to take off the intake manifold ... oh what a joy ...
I'll do that on Saturday.
Tomorrow I'll pump iron as anger management
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