302 Valve Clearance
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Peine, Germany
There is no sign of any faults around the Lifters.
I am 100% sure that I torqued the Cam bolt with the right torque.
But I don't know if I used the right scale.
My torque wrench has a ft/lbs and a Nm-Scale.
But 45 Nm are 33 ft/lbs - so maybe it wasn't tight enough.
Or is the Cam bolt a stress bolt?
Maybe it was just "stressed out"
So, my next steps will be:
- get somehow the broken pin out of the cam (it's jammed)
- get a new Bolt and Pin
- Install the timing chain and turn the Engine by hand a few times
- Check the Compression before I reinstall the remaining parts
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
A bolt stretched that way is a sign of being over torqued. Never seen a cam bolt do that and I've reused them many, many times. They're not torque to yield bolts as are the later small block Ford head bolts.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,071
Likes: 36
From: British Columbia
What may have happened is that the cam could have stopped turning, which would cause the dowel pin to shear since the sprocket was still driven by the chain. So the upper sprocket continued to spin for a few seconds, and through friction it turned the washer and bolt of its attaching screw, over tightening it to the point of failure.
When the engine is bolted back together, turn it over a few times with a wrench on the crankshaft sprocket to make sure it turns freely.
When the engine is bolted back together, turn it over a few times with a wrench on the crankshaft sprocket to make sure it turns freely.
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Senior User
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From: Peine, Germany
What may have happened is that the cam could have stopped turning, which would cause the dowel pin to shear since the sprocket was still driven by the chain. So the upper sprocket continued to spin for a few seconds, and through friction it turned the washer and bolt of its attaching screw, over tightening it to the point of failure.
But the Question is still: Why did the cam stopped turning?
Anyway, I tried to drill out the pin yesterday out of the camshaft.
It's really a pain to get to there on an E-Series, because you have to bent so far over the grille.
I couldn't get it out in place - so I took the cam out.
What really bothers me is that I thought the cam is made of hardened Steel - but it seems to be of standart-steel.
The Pin itself cannot be hardened - so it woldn't break in case of a failure.
I got a little bit too far on the outside with the drill and now there's a little egg-shape in the hole of the cam.
I have to get the rest of the pin out to see if the cam is now Junk or not.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,071
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From: British Columbia
Camshaft tribulations
"But the Question is still: Why did the cam stopped turning?"
Exactly. Before you took it out, did you notice if it was spinning freely? It should be possible to determine what is stopping it, by turning it by hand.
The camshaft should be fine even if the hole is a bit damaged, since the pin merely keeps the parts from turning and isn't a bearing or similar.
Or you could just redrill the two parts in a different place for another pin.
Exactly. Before you took it out, did you notice if it was spinning freely? It should be possible to determine what is stopping it, by turning it by hand.
The camshaft should be fine even if the hole is a bit damaged, since the pin merely keeps the parts from turning and isn't a bearing or similar.
Or you could just redrill the two parts in a different place for another pin.
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Senior User
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From: Peine, Germany
I boltet on the camshaft gear and tried to spin it with lifters and pushrods in place.
It was hard, but I guess it was because of the resistance from the valve springs.
I ordered a new cam bolt and pin.
The "Dura-Bond Engine Hardware Finishing Kit FKF-1A" to be exactly - but I guess it'll take a week till it arrives.
Than I will see if the new pin still fits tight or wobbles in place.
If it does, I'll enlarge the hole to 8 or 9 mm
It was hard, but I guess it was because of the resistance from the valve springs.
I ordered a new cam bolt and pin.
The "Dura-Bond Engine Hardware Finishing Kit FKF-1A" to be exactly - but I guess it'll take a week till it arrives.
Than I will see if the new pin still fits tight or wobbles in place.
If it does, I'll enlarge the hole to 8 or 9 mm
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
The pin should be a press fit, with zero movement of the pin. If it's loose, then it will gradually work itself and the cam retaining bolt loose, possibly causing a repeat performance of what you just experienced.
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Senior User
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From: Peine, Germany
OK, then I'll just take a bigger pin and slam it in with a big hammer 
(just kidding)
Maybe I'll look around for an Engine Shop which can repair camshafts.
I just found one, but there's no detail in their price list.
It's just saying: Repair of a Camshaft with 16 cams: 211€ (290$) - even if I calculate the shipping fees in it, is it still 2/3 of the new price
(just kidding)
Maybe I'll look around for an Engine Shop which can repair camshafts.
I just found one, but there's no detail in their price list.
It's just saying: Repair of a Camshaft with 16 cams: 211€ (290$) - even if I calculate the shipping fees in it, is it still 2/3 of the new price
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,071
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From: British Columbia
I don't recall the size of the camshaft pin. If it is 5/16", that is a tiny bit smaller than 8mm so you may be able to hammer that size pin in. But you will have to enlarge the hole in the camshaft sprocket to 8mm, so the sprocket slides on. For that you need to buy or borrow an 8mm reamer, and enlarge the hole using a drill press so that it is "square" to the face of the sprocket. A reamer meant for use by hand or machine will be alright for this small job.
If the pin is 3/8", you can use a 10mm pin. Since the difference is about half a mm, you will have to ream the camshaft hole to 10mm (actually 9.95 or so would be ideal) with a machine reamer to hold onto the pin. Again, it is very important to ream very straight.
You might be able to do it yourself with great care. Otherwise a regular machine shop or automobile machine shop should be able to do it for not so much money.
In the machine shop I worked in about ten years ago we drilled a new hole in a camshaft and replaced a pin for a walk in customer for $25, I think.
If the pin is 3/8", you can use a 10mm pin. Since the difference is about half a mm, you will have to ream the camshaft hole to 10mm (actually 9.95 or so would be ideal) with a machine reamer to hold onto the pin. Again, it is very important to ream very straight.
You might be able to do it yourself with great care. Otherwise a regular machine shop or automobile machine shop should be able to do it for not so much money.
In the machine shop I worked in about ten years ago we drilled a new hole in a camshaft and replaced a pin for a walk in customer for $25, I think.
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