Okay, to supplement the text I just sent Josh. He suggested the threaded holes in the damaged spacer could be drilled out to serve like the stock lug holes. True, but the edges would need to be chamfered to fit the 60° angle of the lug nuts. Whether to put the extra spacer outside on five studs or inside on eight is a matter of taste. Doing it on the inner face with eight holes and longer studs would be a real original looking package. On the other hand, I have a set of five hole flat plates that would be a simple fix. But not as thick, only 5/8" iirc. The pictured flat plates were factory pieces on early '53 F-250 MHs' (M254s) front axles. They were added to the old style '51/'52 axles (MH used up old stock) to widen the track when used with the new 53 body style. MH attached them using Budd inner and outer cap nuts like would normally be seen on a rear DRW set up. I also have a generic flat set of 1/2" spacers that would require use of longer outer studs. The five holes are just holes, nothing special. Stu

 

Lots of good talk and ideas, I love all the help. I called Wheeler tank today and asked about a blank inner disc with just the center hole cut for the tube. They said no problem. I then told them about the idea to come in fron the back after pushing the studs out of the hub. They said they could program the cnc plasma with less voltage to just put in pilot holes for the correct bolt pattern. When I get that done I'm gonna drill and tap the holes in the inner ring and bolt it to the hub from the inside like the pics that Josh posted. I will probably weld the tube into the inner before drilling and tapping so things dont change if i drilled and tapped before welding. We are doing this on a brown paper bag budget for now so I'm just gonna keep trying things till I find what i like. Looks like jr. will get a lesson in taking off a hub tomorrow while I'm at work. And Josh, I'm good on tube for now, but you might want to tell your guy to set it on the shelf for safe keeping for the time being. Again, thanks for all the ideas guys! On a side note, the holes in the original inner disc are 5/8 so it would stand to reason that the next disc will have smaller holes to be tapped so that should equal more "meat" between the hole and the tube. Thats how it looks in my minds eye anyway.

 

I have two tonner sets of rear hubs. They are both on rolling trailers. I think they are both '39's. If you need them, they are yours.

 

would it cost to much to just have the shop turn those tubes down to the od size you need?you wouldnt have to special order anything.


wow I must have missed the whole page 2,im way behind.

 

Thanks for the offer GB, I will see how this next step works out before i look for hubs, etc. And Vintage Tin, the id needs to be a min. of 4 7/8, which lead to problems when you consider the socket/nut over the stud. Run out of room in a hurry. Thats why the next step will be coming in from the back side of the hub.

 

The hits just keep on comin! So we took the hub off the rear of the 52 F2 MH to try to figure this problem out. It came off super easy since the brakes and hardware were gone? Then figured it would be an easy task of removing the studs and sizing it up for a new inner disc. Wrong! You can see in the pics that one of the po's welded the studs in. Makes me think they may have had a problem at one time. That got me thinking about the spacers that Stu posted the pic of with the holes all worn out. Now I am under the impression that these MH's that turn up with missing adapters is because they ran loose and got destroyed. Either that or just taken off and chucked. Destroyed is more likely. Like fractured front axles and broken frames. It makes more sense now. The next step is to find correct 9/16 bolts that will fit coming in from the rear of the hub. Then i can figure the new hole size for cutting the threads into the new inner disc. If this doesnt work it may get a little spendy.

 

Mark - "all ya gotta do is.....". It's so simple for us guys sitting at the keyboards.

Chuck once told me there were more F-2/3s built than F-1s, but fewer have survived because they were used like F-5s. You're livin' it. I agree with your comment about the rear spacers getting trashed and discarded. Keeping two sets of nuts torqued at each corner wasn't in the play book for a lot of ranch hands. And brakes, no need to keep them. This is why we have parts trucks. Your boy is getting an education on that F-2. Stu

 

Wow,
You never know what evil lurks behind the scenes.

One more hurdly to overcome. Keep at it
Bobby

 

that's what the studs looked like on my 45 GPW, the splines on the axle for the studs were worn or stripped out so the studs would just spin and you could never get the wheels tight. so someone welded the studs to the axle/hub.

wonder what my 51 F3 MH is going to look like when I get my hubs off? (since it is also missing the adapters)
just use lots of thread locker on the new bolts, they should never have to come off again right?

 

Ah heck, its just an old truck.....weld the wheels to the hubs...problem solved......

 

Your cracking me up Bobby! Well, I went looking for those cap screw bolts or whatever they are called and the biggest i found was 1/2 in.. I got online and fastenal has what i need for 5 to 7 bucks a bolt. Ouch. I have one more place to look locally before I decide to go with grade 8 hex. First things first. The stud hole in the hub is to small for a 5/8 but a 9/16 is a little loose. My thought is to go with the 9/16 because i may need a little room for error. Second thing is the bolt. If I cant find the cap screw bolt does anyone see a problem with the hex head and about three washers to clear the lip on the hub. It seems like an easy fix if it will clear the brakes and springs, but since the f2 didnt have the brakes installed there is no way for me to check. The hex head bolt and three washers = .47 cents. Does anyone have any thoughts about this? Good or bad. If there are no major safety concerns I will probably go with the 9/16 hex and three washer deal.

 

I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as they clear the brake shoes and springs.

Going back and looking at the other picture with the caps screws it looks like they had to clearance a little bit for them. I guess that's why you need the 3 washers? to raise the head up a bit?

Bobby

 

You might think about McMaster Carr too. Here's their cap screw page, and seems they are gonna be less than your Fastenal quote. I don't see anything wrong with using grade 8 washers to space a hex head bolt either, as long as you can clear your brake components. Stu

McMaster-Carr