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Yes a 6 volt electric fuel pump is available, you may want to run a regulator depending on what pump and or carb you use. Any major parts house can supply you with the pump.
I'm going with the Airtex #E8016S pump,Airtex #OS75 safety switch and the holley # 12-804pressure regulator, as per some knowledgable folks advice. I haven't gotten them yet but with all the snow and cold I'm not in much of a hurry yet
I'm going with the Airtex #E8016S pump,Airtex #OS75 safety switch and the holley # 12-804pressure regulator, as per some knowledgable folks advice. I haven't gotten them yet but with all the snow and cold I'm not in much of a hurry yet
Toby, is the pump one that has to be mounted below the lowest level of the tank or is it an actual pumper? Where do you plan to locate the pump?
If I remove the existing fuel pump can I just put part of the mounting bracket for my power steering pump over the hole?
Raytash, thank you for the part nomenclature. What does it do?
Raytash, thank you for the part nomenclature. What does it do?
In theory, the forward movement of the vehicle creates a vacuum at the lower end of the tube and draws crankcase fumes from the engine. Blowby causes pressure buildup within the crankcase and the fumes go out the road draft tube.
In theory, the forward movement of the vehicle creates a vacuum at the lower end of the tube and draws crankcase fumes from the engine. Blowby causes pressure buildup within the crankcase and the fumes go out the road draft tube.
Is this where I saw smoke coming from in the "old" days when every car in front of me had blue smoke coming from up under the engine?
I'm going with the Airtex #E8016S pump,Airtex #OS75 safety switch and the holley # 12-804pressure regulator, as per some knowledgable folks advice. I haven't gotten them yet but with all the snow and cold I'm not in much of a hurry yet
You really ought to get a factory workshop manual. Aside from identifying all these parts, it explains how many of them operate. The best $30 you'll ever spend!
It seems that it's sole purpose is to get gummed up with the oil spray that it is also intended to catch so that it doesn't spill all over. I'm putting a PCV on Albatross' "new" 292. It is a far better system as far as catching/eliminating corrosive blowby fumes and minimizing fumes as well as oil spray. I'm also putting a fine air filter in the oil filler neck to keep dirt out. The 239's original filler cap was vented but not filtered at all.
You really ought to get a factory workshop manual. Aside from identifying all these parts, it explains how many of them operate. The best $30 you'll ever spend!
Ross, I have a Ford Truck Shop manual 1954-55 which on the cover says Ford Division, Ford Motor Company - copyright 1954. Is there a better one to own?
My bad, it's the E8011 pump, I think. 6 volts with the lower pressure. My tank will still be behind the seat so the pump would be lower than it. I was going to put it on the framerail somewhere on the drivers side. Maybe the safety switch could be optional. I'll put one in cuz I can be an airhead sometimes. I couldn't find the thread where we were talking about this setup but Ross has one on his truck and I think he's happy with it.The carbs don't need but 2.5 psi or so,thus the pressure regulator. As far as the old fuel pump delete. I think Helicopterman(?) had made a cover to plug the opening where the pump went. Shouldn't be too hard to do there. Maybe some of the other guys can elaborate on this a bit more since I haven't done mine yet.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.