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Ive went back through a bunch of threads trying to find the answer to this , but what causes making oil?
I thought it had something to do with the regen process?
Ive got regen delete done , I checked my oil 1/2 dozen times today and I get approx. the same reading everytime.
It looks to be about a quarter inch above the little plastic thing on the dipstick.
So its a ways above max.
What happerns if its driven overfilled.
I pushed the dipstick right in the tube while checking the oil.
First was it correct the last time you checked it. If it was it could be a leaking fuel line going to the injectors.
I noticed the other day you posted that you truck smokes when warming and the pictures you showed looked to be a oil(like it has some unburned fuel) smoke, this would do it also, idle it as little as possible, better to plug it in and idle a couple of minutes only, I know it's really cold were you are but a couple of minutes is all you need.
I think I would drain out a couple of quarts, check it, make a mental note of were it is and continue to monitor.
Did you truck always smoke, even before it was tuned?
One other aspect I've noticed about these trucks is it has to sit a long time after it's shut off to get an accurate reading on the dip stick.
If it gets to overfull it could run away, from using the excess oil in the crankcase as a fuel, plus fuel dilution will ruin the oil itself creating extra wear.
to get a more accurate reading on if it is overfilled you can short stick it when checking. instead of putting the stick all the way in put it in until the plastic of the handle touches the dipstick tube. then look at the crosshatch area to see if it still shows overfull.
Regen is the biggest issue for causing " making oil" but a leaking fuel injector or line on a common rail diesel can easily fill the crankcase very quickly and cause damage.
First was it correct the last time you checked it. If it was it could be a leaking fuel line going to the injectors.
I noticed the other day you posted that you truck smokes when warming and the pictures you showed looked to be a oil(like it has some unburned fuel) smoke, this would do it also, idle it as little as possible, better to plug it in and idle a couple of minutes only, I know it's really cold were you are but a couple of minutes is all you need.
I think I would drain out a couple of quarts, check it, make a mental note of were it is and continue to monitor.
Did you truck always smoke, even before it was tuned?
One other aspect I've noticed about these trucks is it has to sit a long time after it's shut off to get an accurate reading on the dip stick.
If it gets to overfull it could run away, from using the excess oil in the crankcase as a fuel, plus fuel dilution will ruin the oil itself creating extra wear.
I havnt got on to being consistant with checking the oil because of the dipstick.
Meaning Im never sure if Im getting a accurate reading or not.
The truck has only been smoking badly since its been very cold , it doesn't seem to smoke as much when its warmer out.
I agree that dip stick is a PITA to read but if you are running it in the tube and cleaning 4 or 5 times you should be getting all the oil out of the tube and a accurate reading.
It may be too cold for you to do this but my truck made oil before I deleted and I has some success (better oil reports) by doing the following: I installed a Fumoto oil valve in place of the drain. Changed oil at every 5000 miles. Between changes at each 1000 miles I crawled under and drained oil until it was a quart low. Then I added a quart of fresh. After a while I had it down to about a 10 minute job. Hardest part was reading the dip stick correctly. Cost was 1 gallon of oil between changes. Well worth it for the peace of mind and better oil viscosity.
Ive went back through a bunch of threads trying to find the answer to this , but what causes making oil?
I thought it had something to do with the regen process?
Ive got regen delete done , I checked my oil 1/2 dozen times today and I get approx. the same reading everytime.
It looks to be about a quarter inch above the little plastic thing on the dipstick.
So its a ways above max.
What happerns if its driven overfilled.
I pushed the dipstick right in the tube while checking the oil.
I agree that dip stick is a PITA to read but if you are running it in the tube and cleaning 4 or 5 times you should be getting all the oil out of the tube and a accurate reading.
It may be too cold for you to do this but my truck made oil before I deleted and I has some success (better oil reports) by doing the following: I installed a Fumoto oil valve in place of the drain. Changed oil at every 5000 miles. Between changes at each 1000 miles I crawled under and drained oil until it was a quart low. Then I added a quart of fresh. After a while I had it down to about a 10 minute job. Hardest part was reading the dip stick correctly. Cost was 1 gallon of oil between changes. Well worth it for the peace of mind and better oil viscosity.
I did what you said and ran the dipstick in and out 5 times , I feel better now because I did it another 3 times and the oil level is sitting on max.
That was after sitting overnight, Ill try it again this afternoon after its been running .
I did what you said and ran the dipstick in and out 5 times , I feel better now because I did it another 3 times and the oil level is sitting on max.
That was after sitting overnight, Ill try it again this afternoon after its been running .
When I change my oil I always fill to center of the safe range, that way I can always tell if I'm loosing or gaining oil, easy to see, I check mine first thing every Sunday morning along with a quick eyeball of the coolant level.
When did you have your motor run away on you, just as a FYI did you still have the stock intake on it with the egr valve and diverter valve still on. Some say the egr diverter valve acts as a throttle stop when the ECM detects a runaway.
When did you have your motor run away on you, just as a FYI did you still have the stock intake on it with the egr valve and diverter valve still on. Some say the egr diverter valve acts as a throttle stop when the ECM detects a runaway.
About a year ago. Aftermarket intake no egr valve. Hpfp had a leak and well the rest is history.
I cant see how the diverter is going to stop a runaway. Once it starts to suck oil fuel mix into the intake its all over. Nothing you can do about other than if you are right there in front of the turbo and throw a shirt or something in there to stop air flow. But I may be wrong. Wouldnt be the first time.
Lots of trucks and machines in the oilpatch have emergencey air shutoff handles.
My excavator has one, maybe they would be good to have.
Most of the ones Ive seen are just a red handle beside the seat
Lots of trucks and machines in the oilpatch have emergencey air shutoff handles.
My excavator has one, maybe they would be good to have.
Most of the ones Ive seen are just a red handle beside the seat
i think thats what the butterfly valve is for on the stock intake
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