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I bought it from a guy I know that's a dealer. He knew I've been looking for one and sold me this one cheap because he didn't know what was wrong with the steering. For only 12k I'm pretty satisfied.
I bought it from a guy I know that's a dealer. He knew I've been looking for one and sold me this one cheap because he didn't know what was wrong with the steering. For only 12k I'm pretty satisfied.
Might be a good idea to get an oem oil filter cap and filter. Looks as if you have a wix
That was one of the reasons I asked for a picture.
Not sure if I can see the batteries are the same. Might have been replaced separately at one time. Might want to get them load tested just to make sure they are both good.
Looks like original CAC boots, might want to check those.
Can't really see the vacuum line to the heater valve, but check to see if it is hooked up.
Looks as if you are getting the truck into shape. What oil did you use?
I think it was valvoline extreme blue 5w-40. One of my good friends owns and operates palmetto state diesel in Seneca SC and he hooked me up with all motorcraft filters. He also told me the oil cap I had was garbage and got me an oem one.
Alright maybe y'all guys can help me with this. I bought a boat this weekend in Florida and of course took the 6.0. Drove all the way there no problems at all and even averaged 15.5 mpg. However on the way back I was using towing mode pulling this 4k lb boat. The truck didn't seem to struggle one bit with it. Pulled it great. However after about an hour the little wrench popped on my dash beside the check engine light. I kept going for about 30 mins and stopped to check the trailer lights. I turned the truck off and went to crank it and it wouldn't start first try. It started second try and the little wrench went off the dash. Cool. I did also notice that my trucks fan or whatever seemed to be much louder at times. Didn't think anything of it really. after about another hour I get a ding and check gauges appears in the dash. I look and they seem fine. After about 5 second I notice the coolent temp goes from normal to high in about 2 seconds time. So I naturally pull the truck over and shut it off. I opened the hood and it didn't seem like it had over heated. I try to restart it a couple times and it just won't start. So I sit there for about 10 mins or so and try again... Still no luck. I really didn't think that I over heated and I thought it was almost like my truck was in a safe mode and wouldn't start. I get out and disconnect the batteries for a few seconds then hook them back up. I go and try to start the truck and it starts first try just like normal. and the coolent temp gauge is now normal. I drive another exit to advandced auto and get a scan on the truck. Only think they could get was controller area network communication bus malfunction and of course it picked up the egr delete code. I've been driving it for two days since the. And seems fine and also rode fine the rest of my trip home which was about 5 hours pulling the boat? Any ideas?
I know I need better gauges I'm just saving up for the mini maxx gauges and tuner. So don't hate on me for only having the factory gauges. Thanks guys
Yeah,, those factory gauges will let you there is a problem,, after it IS a problem. I like the torque app much more than scanguage. Plus it's a fraction of the cost. And many more pids can be monitored on the same screen.
So there was no residue around the coolant (degas) cap? Generally,, if the fan is on,, the engine is hot (over 218 deg). Normal operating coolant temps pulling 4k should be 195-205,,, maybe 210 pulling grades.
Towing and wrench light to me screams oil cooler. Removing the battery cables probably cleared any codes and most auto parts stores scanners won't pick up the wrench light codes anyway. You may also have a HPO leak developing (hot no start). Get something to monitor your temps before you cook down your truck. I think you got lucky this time.
Towing and wrench light to me screams oil cooler. Removing the battery cables probably cleared any codes and most auto parts stores scanners won't pick up the wrench light codes anyway. You may also have a HPO leak developing (hot no start). Get something to monitor your temps before you cook down your truck. I think you got lucky this time.
What do u think of the mini maxx tuner and gauges?
I know you asked that to Tim,, but most use the mini maxx on the 6.4's. but anything that will let you see your temps is a blessing. I would be checking deltas ASAP. Iirc it's like 250 oil temp triggers the wrench light. If oil gets to 310 or above,,, goodbye engine, hpop, turbo, injectors,, basically everything the oil touches. The hot temps will melt all the plastic in the oil filter housing and that plastic will re-harden wherever it stops. Repair would call for a "full dress" drop in engine.
There are a lot of gauges out there to choose from. I have the Dashboss, which works well if you have an Iphone, Ipod, or some kind of Apple blue tooth capable device. I like mine a lot... Many folks just go get a scangauge2, if they don't have a read device to pair with it. Torque app is good for Android. Don't know much about those but they are the popular choice for android users and I have read good things about their function/affordability.
Don't tow anymore until you get some kind of a gauge to check your engine oil temp and engine coolant temp deltas. You may be needing an oil cooler. Your symptoms sound like it to me. First thing NOW is to identify if that is in fact what is going on. If so, this would be the time to get after those bullet proofing projects you have in your master plan.
I know you asked that to Tim,, but most use the mini maxx on the 6.4's. but anything that will let you see your temps is a blessing. I would be checking deltas ASAP. Iirc it's like 250 oil temp triggers the wrench light. If oil gets to 310 or above,,, goodbye engine, hpop, turbo, injectors,, basically everything the oil touches. The hot temps will melt all the plastic in the oil filter housing and that plastic will re-harden wherever it stops. Repair would call for a "full dress" drop in engine.
Yeah I know I need them and I really want to get the bulletproof done ASAP so I'm saving for that. Guess I should get gauges before. I'm getting a full bulletproof with the cab off and having the heads flattened also. I can get it done for less than 5k. What do y'all typically pay for this job?
First thing first! Get a monitoring device (gauges). See what's going on in there. Smart fellas here to help you diagnose, but only after you get the readings they need.
Currently working on the full bulletproofing of the 6.0. Thanks to palmetto state diesel in seneca sc. Also getting the edge cts, custom tunes and exhaust
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