99% of the time I can search the forum and get lots of great answers for any of my problems, but this one has me stumped. By the way, I want to thank everyone for all of their awesome suggestions and solutions, this forum has been a lifesaver. Now the situation, for some reason recently I started noticing a slow leak coming down the drivers side of the motor. I tracked the leak to to powersteering pump. I have been hearing lots of noise from it, so I just replaced it. Cleaned everything up, and made it look nice and clean for the first time in who knows how many years. Well after driving to and from work, I wanted to check to make sure I actually tightened everything correctly. I noticed some dark, I believe oil looking drops, on the bottom bolt of the vacuum pump. Everything else was bone dry. I got to feeling around, and I noticed the whole underside of the vacuum pump pulley was wet. So the question is, is this possible? I mean, the brakes are about the same as always, and in the last two weeks, I do think the pump gets louder for a few minutes, then sounds normal. Its not coming from the new steering pump, or from the hpop or fuel lines coming down the front of motor. Everything is nice a dry and clean. But for some reason vacuum pump is wet in that spot. Is there oil in the pump that keeps the shaft lubbed? Is this the beginning of the pump going bad? Its only about 2 years old. Could it be anything else? Im so confused any help will be appreciated.

thanks

 

Is the brake fluid dropping? If the master is leaking out the rear seal I could see the fluid could get sucked into the vaccum line and discharged from the vaccum pump but that is a stretch..

 

you know.... that is a good thought. My ABS light comes on from time to time even when the truck is braking normally and the fluid is at the right level. Also I do top off the fluid every couple months.... I just figured I was losing some from the rear drums, they have always been difficult on my truck. If that was the case, then the vacuum tube on back of pump would have fluid in it? How hard is it to change a master cylinder?

 

Changing a master cylinder itself is easy, but bleeding the lines, and everything else takes time and effort. Glenn keeps talking about "gravity bleeding" but I haven't figure out what he means yet. Also, if you haven't had the cruise control recall fixed, now is a time to maybe address it. Not sure if it applies to your year/model.

 

I would say that the vaccume pump isn't long for this world. The pump does have lubrication in it, and if the seal is letting it leak out, the bearings will fail. When the vaccume pump failed in the 96 crew, the brakes were good untill the pump exploded.

 

You should NEVER just top off brake fluid. The level will go down moderately as the front brake pads wear, and the caliper pistons advance. If the level goes down faster than what the front pad wear would account for, you have an external leak. The tinyest external leak can, with any ONE press of the pedal, become a complete hydraulic failure. The truck is not safe to drive in this condition.

Re. the theory of brake fluid leaking from the M/C through the booster into the pump, an inspection of the inside of the booster vacuum hose would be in order. Brake fluid also has a distinct smell, unlike any other fluid in the truck; that should provide a clue.

If it's the vacuum pump lube as suggested above, you have more than your brakes to worry about. If/when the pump seizes, it will likely either snap or throw the belt, which means you have no power steering, and no water pump.

 

The reason I am confused by the fluid, is the smell is not very distinctive, it is just not very much, and the color is black... My brake fluid is red, I guess it could change color going through the vacuum hose... I just dont know. I will check that this afternoon. Does anybody recall the best place to order these vacuum pumps, I think last time I had to order it from ford, and it was very pricey.

 

AccurateDiesel has what they claim are OEM pumps. One thing for sure, they're new, not reman, because there's no core return. Otherwise, you can get a Reman, probably Dorman, at most FLAPS, which will be typical "lifetime warranty" reman quality.

 

I was in a bind and got mine at O'reileys for a decent price. Limited lifetime warranty.

 

the vacuum booster is a sealed unit, there is no wat it can suck brake fluid from a leaking master unless the booster is also leaking and than you wouldn't have any vacuum and your hvac ducts would be stuck on defrost.

 

I would have to agree with this.

 

^^^^^ And the OP reporting the leaking fluid NOT having the distinct smell of brake fluid would be consistent with this. But that means there are two problems at hand, the pump leaking lubricant and the brake fluid loss.

 

I have seen plenty of boosters full of brake fluid.
the fluid will attack the rubber diaphram or get around the circumfrence or any small hole in the diaphram.it does not nessarily have to be such a large hole to loose pb.

I said it was a long shot but with regular master filling happening...do what you want i don't care if you fix it

 

well I got a good look at it this afternoon, and it does appears that the only wet spot again was the mounting bolts below the vacuum pump and there was a very small drop forming on the shaft behind the pulley. I will tear apart tomorrow and replace. As for the leaking break fluid, It does go down over time, but the only place I could find that looked like it was wet in the brake system was the piece on the rear right drum brake that pushes the pads against the drum (sorry not sure of the name of it). It wasnt dripping, but it definitely seemed wet, can this one piece be replaced or does a whole drum kit need to be purchased? The pads are still in really good shape, and I am completely out of money right now. My truck was actually t-boned 2 months ago by a girl running a red light, and I had to accept a lowball offer to fix it from her company or they were going to total my baby, when the only actual damage was cosmetic... So I had to pay a good bit out of pocket to keep her. Im strapped for cash now, in hindsight I suppose getting all the cab rust fixed, replacing the floor lining, and purchasing new wheels and tires instead of just replacing the bad wheel and two tires probably didnt help the cost.... The things you do for love.... Thanks again for everyone's help, I really do love this forum. You guys are great

 

That piece is called a wheel cylinder. Not to hard to replace just spray some penetrating oil on the brake line a few times before you decide to do it. If the shoes have any oil on them replace them, adjust them and bleed them out