Just got this truck And I hate breaking down on the road so I rebuild old stuff when I buy it, Anyways The truck has 194,000 miles on it and the tranny is wore out so I am pulling it to rebuild and my coolant keeps going down but it has no leaks so I am thinking maybe intake or head but it does not show the symptoms so I am going to pull it and reseal everything anyways.

The engine does not smoke and runs strong but idles a little high so I am hoping I can pull it pull the heads have them checked and new valve seals and new freeze plugs and seal it all back up.

I really do not have the cash to rebuild it right now so I am not going to pull a bearing because it might be worn and I do not want to know right now LOl JK
Are these motors good at 200k miles if they were maintained or are they on there way out? Thanks

 

They can take the mileage but keep in mind no one bought a 460 as a DD, they are work horses so its been run no doubt.

Just give everything a good looking over and see. Odds are bottom end bearings will be needed but for as cheap as they are its just good insurance

 

What did you find wrong with your 1996 7.5?? Just curious, as I am getting ready to re do mine, I know I have 1 bad piston, and timing chain is probably ready to go, I have 137,000 on my 1996. Good luck! Dale

 

Just pulled it today. It was running fine. I am going to get it on the stand tomorrow and pull the oil pan and see what the bearing look like. I am kind of pissed I pulled it now. I thought the rear main was leaking but all it was is the stupid oil pressure sensor on the back of the intake leaking. Oh well

Im not sure which was worst, pulling the tcase and tranny or the motor lol



I don't know why my pics want post

 

I had 206k on mine with nothing wrong with it when I pulled it. Had a similar minor oil leak.

Looking back I would have left it in. Depends on what you want with it. Since you have it pulled... I'll tell you what everybody told me when I pulled mine as long as I had it out.

Rebuild it. Every part of it.

I didn't listen and cheaped it my first round and ended up doing it again. Since you have it out, make sure everything is within tolerance and if rebuilding is necessary, spend the money to build it right and to your application.

 

I thought the tubes for the AIR system connected to back of the heads. I don't see them in that pic. It looks like they connect to the exhaust manifolds instead.

Whalebus2112, could you please take another pic from the same angle but on the other side of the motor?

 

Sorry I didn't read this before I tore it down but the air pump does tie into each manifold at the rear. I am removing mine and welding the holes shut.

The valley had some varnish in it but not bad for 194k miles. pulled the pan and it looks pretty good. I can still see the cross hatching really well and the bearing I pulled looked good . should I get the crank polished or can I just use some emory cloth an polish it out? I am going to strip it down and pressure wash block and parts then hopefully go back with stock rings and bearings. I am going to get the heads to the machine shop to get checked and seals put in.

The only bad thing I have found so far is some plastic pieces and a spring from inside a seal lip in the pick up screen.

I think I am going to bite the bullet and try to find some headers also.

 

That looks really good! Previous owners followed some kind of regular oil change regimen!! I bet there won't be any ridge to speak of at top of cylinder. Good luck! Dale

 

Yea that's what I thought, someone changed the oil regularly.

 

My first rebuild I did not over bore and went with stock rings. Following this I was adding a quart every 200-300 miles. If you take the pistons out make darn sure your cylinders are within the bore tolerance and are not out of round. Otherwise bore it out and do it right. I would not recommend welding the holes in the manifolds. I removed my air pump and used stainless steel plugs on my headers.

 

Do you remember the plug size? I am going to pull the pistons and check the bore. Dropping the heads off tomorrow. I guess I need to pull the cam and check the cam bearings.

I was thinking about a rv cam for it but I think my money would be better spent on the banks headers because they have proven numbers.

hey Cbakker, I noticed that you have the power pack in your sig. Do you have the whole kit and can you tell a real difference?

 

Don't remember for sure. I ordered them from RJM injection which is out of business from what I hear. I believe they were a standard pipe thread though. I currently have no cat or A.I.R. System, but I ordered the power pack with the bungs for them just in case I ever have to reinstall the system. I then installed the plugs and EGR block off plate that I got from RJM.

I don't believe you will see improvements just by adding the power pack. Depending on the cam you go with and what you do for headwork, you may see a benefit to having it. Is it a MAF Cali truck, or still speed density?

Do your homework before getting a cam. If you have a SD EEC-IV your options will be limited.

 

Its speed density. I am watching your thread about your upgrade.
Got everything apart today and over all I am happy with the way things look. The bearings looked good but one looked a little wore. Does this bearing look excessively worn or normal for 200k miles. I am a good mechanic but I never claimed to be an engine builder lol.

 

It's hard to tell from the pic but if there are any grooves in the crank journal that emery cloth won't take out, you should consider getting it ground. At the very least you need to measure all of the journals for out of round and overall diameter.

Mains are 3" and the rods are 2.5". I can't remember the tolerance but after 200k I would recommend just doing a .010 grind so you don't have to worry about it.

 

Got everything dropped off at the machine shop today and he took a quick glance over things and said everything looked good except the cam is wore out. I ran out of time so I am just going to let the shop tell me what I need and what they can do with the parts.

As a said I need a new cam so I might as well upgrade for sure now so I will be calling around . If I go with a towing cam do I still need to bump up my timing from stock to 11-12 or leave it stock?