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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Tragic Mistake

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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 07:39 PM
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Tragic Mistake

Well with all my excitement about getting my new 8.8 under the truck. I didn't mark the center line of previous axle. I am hoping centerline is under factory bump stops for axle? Or if anyone can provide me with measurements from rear of frame to center mark of axle would be amazing. Ordering new four link next week and hoping to get it set. Here are some photos.

[IMG]<a href="http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/mitchellbwhite/media/Ole%20Bessie/IMG_7110_zps86c498ab.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag288/mitchellbwhite/Ole%20Bessie/IMG_7110_zps86c498ab.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_7110_zps86c498ab.jpg"/></a>[/IMG]

[IMG]<a href="http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/mitchellbwhite/media/Ole%20Bessie/IMG_7112_zps28f0674e.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag288/mitchellbwhite/Ole%20Bessie/IMG_7112_zps28f0674e.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_7112_zps28f0674e.jpg"/></a>[/IMG]
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 07:50 PM
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Mitch, what year is your truck?
Here is a link to some dimensions. You need to scroll a long way down.
http://www.clubfte.com/users/earl/Re..._Material.html
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 08:42 PM
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This is a 1954 Ford F100.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 09:39 PM
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Snubber will not be the axle center line, when the suspension compresses the axle moves to the rear as the spring gets longer and the rear shackle straightens out. Because of this the snubber will be to the rear of the true centerline.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 09:44 PM
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Maybe some one can measure from end of frame rail to center of tub or to center of axle flange.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 09:55 PM
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I think the diagrams will give you your wheelbase, and that should get it really close (different spring lengths between '54 and '56, but wheelbase is the same). But more importantly, you want the side to side measurement more accurately done, and the squareness of the 4 link matched to the frame and front end, so that it tracks straight. IE, you want it to drive straight and true more than how much the wheel is located in the fenderwell. So that said, mating the 4 link might mean it's off just a tad on one side or another, since these old frames might not be perfect anyway. Square it up the best you can with the front end, and go from there. I think there's adjustments in the 4 link itself that will allow more fine tuning. Just my 2 cents.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 11:32 PM
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my 54 measures 36 inches from the end of the frame to the centerline of the axle.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2014 | 04:16 PM
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I measured where I thought it should be and had 36 1/4 so I am glad to know that I am close. I don't think and 1/8 either way will make that much of a difference. I will have the new 8.8 measured left to right and square about 9 time over before I start to weld any thing in.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2014 | 08:13 PM
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Well Crap..........

Now you have me scratching my head. I measured mine, it is 37". My axle is flipped over the springs and I moved the front mount up an inch....

Maybe that's why its off an inch?

Could you guys give me a measurement from the front frame horn to the edge of the lip on the front crossmember? and while your at it from the front horn to the centerline of axle.

Reason I ask is I measured my wheel base and it is 109". I am sure that I moved my front axles forward 1.5" so something isn't adding up.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2014 | 08:21 PM
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To the OP...what 4-link are you going to use? The reason I ask is because many of the manufacturers, TCI included, fabricate their 4-link systems to bolt up to the existing holes in the frame where the spring hangers were removed. The bump stop is always a good point if an axle housing center point is needed.
 
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