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Abs issue

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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 04:47 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
Dom IF you want to come up and visit I have a Snap-On that will read the ABS codes. I am having problems with my right side one and it the plug that is the problem. I think I am going to end up replacing the truck side connector or the harness. The wheel side is good. My other option is to see if I can fix the pins in the plug. You hight try wiggling that plug and see if it helps. Sean
Thank u sir! Mighty kind of u. I would do it if I can get some time. Lol.

Dom

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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 06:24 PM
  #17  
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10-20 minutes

What Line did you replace??
A Fluid brake line??
Or wiring to VSS ??

Pedal feel Spongy??
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 06:39 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 69cj
Sounds like you may have air trapped in the abs system.



I Didn't Know that Air in the brake line would trigger a ABS Light??


My understanding of ABS Systems is that the PCM monitors the VSS under braking conditions if a wheel Stops then the pressure is released and triggered again very Fast on either the Front or Rear SET of wheels until the Brake Pedal is released or Vehicle stops

And the Only thing that's Monitored Fluid wise is the Fluid Level and that sets a BRAKE Light and SVS (Service Vehicle Soon) Lights NOT Necessarily an ABS Light

The way I take it ABS is the Electronical part of the system and has nothing to do with Fluid


So if it does Trigger a ABS/SVS Light for air in brake lines where is this sensor at??? I haven't noticed anything but I have Never Dug around the ABS Control Module on this truck either or paid much attention to the Master Brake cylinder either. All I saw was the Fluid Level sensor at the Master Cylinder
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 06:52 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
10-20 minutes What Line did you replace?? A Fluid brake line?? Or wiring to VSS ?? Pedal feel Spongy??
Replaced the ABS electrical line tat runs from passenger side hub assembly to the wheel well connector.

Pedal feels nice and tight. Brakes all work. No pulling when braking. No more squealing. Nice even braking.

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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 06:55 PM
  #20  
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Ya need a snap on code scanner or equivalent to see whats going on there Mr. Worm
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 06:57 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Per4mance
Ya need a snap on code scanner or equivalent to see whats going on there Mr. Worm
Thanks for the reply. Point noted. Would someone with AE be able to figure out the issue?

Dom

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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 06:59 PM
  #22  
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Maybe,I never worked with a AE,I imagine it would thou
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 07:03 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Snuggyworm
Replaced the ABS electrical line tat runs from passenger side hub assembly to the wheel well connector.

Pedal feels nice and tight. Brakes all work. No pulling when braking. No more squealing. Nice even braking.

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Right you didn't even open the system up to be able to get air in a Line

If there was any air you would feel it in the pedal without question


So you just bought a electrical line and pluged it in right?? Had a Plug already wired to each end right???

Or did you have to wire an end on anything
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 07:04 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Snuggyworm
Thanks for the reply. Point noted. Would someone with AE be able to figure out the issue?

Dom

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YES^^^^

I bet with AE you could even control the ABS Module


But it should read your DTC No problem
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 07:21 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Right you didn't even open the system up to be able to get air in a Line If there was any air you would feel it in the pedal without question So you just bought a electrical line and pluged it in right?? Had a Plug already wired to each end right??? Or did you have to wire an end on anything
I basically pulled my wheel out, pulled the wheel spacer off, pulled the brake caliper out, pulled out the thing tat the brake pads slot into, then pulled out the rotor, and changed that line which plugs into the hub.

One end plugs into the hub, and the other plugs into the connector behind the wheel well.

Dom

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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 07:22 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
YES^^^^ I bet with AE you could even control the ABS Module But it should read your DTC No problem
Tats good. Thanks Benny for tat quick response. Now I just need to find someone in my area with AE. Lol.

Dom

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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 08:21 PM
  #27  
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Just to summarize, the abs light was on before doing the recent work? And both front and the one rear speed sensors have been replaced?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2014 | 08:36 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by big inch
Just to summarize, the abs light was on before doing the recent work? And both front and the one rear speed sensors have been replaced?
It was on before my wreck in August. It was intermittent back then. After my wreck, I replaced a new front wheel hub with the electrical line on driver side. Light stayed off since October of last year. I guess tat was the fix.

Since I was doing brakes last weekend, I had this stupid idea of balancing everything with new parts. Since the rear is new and the driver side front is new, why not passenger side front?

I didn't unplug no air line. Just swapped the new line in there.

Dom

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Old Feb 4, 2014 | 10:04 PM
  #29  
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Ok so here is the update guys. Went to O'Reilly's.

Got a C1145, C1234 and U1900.

C1145 is right front wheel speed sensor input circuit failure.

C1234 is right front wheel speed sensor input signal missing.

U1900 was some communication bus fault.

Here is the funny thing. I got him to clear all ABS codes. Then rescan. Only the C1145 came back. Weird.

Oh well, at least it confirms my suspicion that it's the "new" line that I installed. Now, I just have to wait till pay day this Friday to pick up a new line from my ford dealership and get to installing the new line. Again.

Thanks guys. I hope this is the fix. Oh feel free to chime in on ur opinions if u will.

Dom

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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 07:40 PM
  #30  
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The 1145 is almost always either a bad sensor or an unplugged connector/poor connection. I would double check the connector at the inner fender.
 
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