Experiences/opinions needed
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Experiences/opinions needed
I own an f250 with the 6.0. I'm now being told it will cost more to fix than its worth. My truck is my Dailey driver, I out on about 18000 a year. About a dozen times a year I also haul an aluminum 4 horse gooseneck loaded with also all the crap a bunch of teenage girls can pack. I'm finding the 2011 diesel which I liked but hearing horror stories about how they are now more complicated than gas engines and I'm looking at a 2011 gasser with the 6.2. Both trucks have 100000 miles on them but are in my price range. With the associated costs of diesels plus fuel now being more expensive than gas but towing better and gas being cheaper to maintain but worse mileage, I am absolutely at a loss on which one is better suited/ more economical for me. 
Help!!!
Help!!!
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,202
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
Unless you're towing for a living, a gas truck will almost always be more economical. I don't know how well these trucks were maintained, but there are plenty of 6.2 & 6.7's out there with well over 100k on them. We have a '11 F450 6.7 car hauler, that's close to 210k with very little issues getting it there.
For what you describe, buy a gasser.
For what you describe, buy a gasser.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Diesels definitely have more maintenance costs than gas engines, and are more complicated to work on (more expensive to repair). An oil change on my 6.0L is $100+, fuel filters are $175+, etc. As much as I love my diesel truck, if budget was a major concern I'd be driving a non-diesel, and probably a 1/2 ton vs. the SD. I rarely tow anything and when I do, it doesn't require the towing capacity of my truck.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: NE Missouri
I have a 7.3 diesel which has been a very good truck but is wearing out. I'll soon have a gas truck because I don't tow much any more and only drive about 4 miles to work. If I towed frequently or took longer trips I would have bought another diesel. I think this is a decision you'll have to make depending on your needs.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
I'm not saying that because I'm in love with the 6.0L, I'd say the same thing about a blown 6.8 that you could replace for less than buying a 100k used one.
Either you're exaggerating, or you're getting bent over by someone.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Just because something costs more to fix than it's worth to someone else doesn't mean it doesn't make sense to fix. A drop-in ready 6.0 is like $13k (worst case), yeah that's a lot but compared to the cost of an entirely different used truck it's not as bad. New engine for less money, or 100k used engine for more? All of this is dependent on the chassis being worth keeping on the road for another 100k, but if you can pay less to hit reset on the engine instead of buying into something beat up it might make sense.
I'm not saying that because I'm in love with the 6.0L, I'd say the same thing about a blown 6.8 that you could replace for less than buying a 100k used one.
Either you're exaggerating, or you're getting bent over by someone.
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I'm not saying that because I'm in love with the 6.0L, I'd say the same thing about a blown 6.8 that you could replace for less than buying a 100k used one.
Either you're exaggerating, or you're getting bent over by someone.
Ford 6.0 Liter Turbo Diesel Motorcraft FD-4616 Fuel/Water Seperator Filters(FD4616): Pick Up & Excursion-REPLACES MOTORCRAFT FD-4604-NEW UPDATED - Diesel Filters,Additives,brake rotors, and brake pads for Chevy, Dodge and Ford Diesel Trucks
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Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,339
Likes: 350
From: Breckenridge, TX
Holy ****. Yeah man, it's only $36 for both filters and all you need is a flex head ratchet with 24mm and 36mm sockets. 30 minutes tops, if you try to be really clean and not spill any diesel out of the HFCM.
If you don't have either of the sockets:
S3624, Socket, Filter Flip, 24 and 36mm, 3/8" square drive
It needs a 1.5" 3/8" extension, or longer. Don't use the square drive in the secondary cap, you'll crack the cap.
If you don't have either of the sockets:
S3624, Socket, Filter Flip, 24 and 36mm, 3/8" square drive
It needs a 1.5" 3/8" extension, or longer. Don't use the square drive in the secondary cap, you'll crack the cap.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Holy ****. Yeah man, it's only $36 for both filters and all you need is a flex head ratchet with 24mm and 36mm sockets. 30 minutes tops, if you try to be really clean and not spill any diesel out of the HFCM.
If you don't have either of the sockets:
S3624, Socket, Filter Flip, 24 and 36mm, 3/8" square drive
It needs a 1.5" 3/8" extension, or longer. Don't use the square drive in the secondary cap, you'll crack the cap.
If you don't have either of the sockets:
S3624, Socket, Filter Flip, 24 and 36mm, 3/8" square drive
It needs a 1.5" 3/8" extension, or longer. Don't use the square drive in the secondary cap, you'll crack the cap.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 4,063
Likes: 2
From: Southeastern IL
Even if its head gaskets, its fixable. There are tons of horror stories of 6.0s going bad but the vast majority of them are fixable. Unless something is wrong with the bottom end (spun bearing, thrown rod, etc) fix it and call it a day
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,515
Likes: 671
From: Sioux Falls Area
Just because something costs more to fix than it's worth to someone else doesn't mean it doesn't make sense to fix. A drop-in ready 6.0 is like $13k (worst case), yeah that's a lot but compared to the cost of an entirely different used truck it's not as bad. New engine for less money, or 100k used engine for more? All of this is dependent on the chassis being worth keeping on the road for another 100k, but if you can pay less to hit reset on the engine instead of buying into something beat up it might make sense.
I'm not saying that because I'm in love with the 6.0L, I'd say the same thing about a blown 6.8 that you could replace for less than buying a 100k used one.
I'm not saying that because I'm in love with the 6.0L, I'd say the same thing about a blown 6.8 that you could replace for less than buying a 100k used one.
if he fixes his truck, he has to come up with $10k cash. if he buys a different truck he can get a loan.
i don't have that kind of money laying around to fix a truck, and i'm for sure not spending $10k to fix a truck, even if it is worth $10k or even a little more. to me, that's a project for someone else -- perhaps someone that can do it for half that and come out ahead. JMO.
I don't think I'd have a problem buying a Gasser with 100k on it if the rest of the truck was nice and it appears to have been well-kept.
there is a TON of value in a vehicle that is newer but has some miles. I don't see a lot of trucks that wear out anymore, even gassers that get worked hard every day. they might get old and have other problems, but it seems like the drivetrain is the last thing to go on modern vehicles.
i'd MUCH rather have a newer truck with more miles, than an older truck with a new engine. Just do your best to try and make sure they weren't beat to death, but that's buying ANY used vehicle.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Thanks mike, that is my problem in a nutshell. Payments on a newer one I can handle, coming up with 5 or 6 grand to fix mine, I can't. Haven't gone to look at this gasser yet. Apparently it was a government lease? Dealership has good reviews.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 659
Likes: 1
From: Millstone, NJ
So why don't you bring your truck to a different mechanic and get a second opinion before you go buy another truck, unless you really just want a new one.
Stealerships aren't the best place to take your truck to.
We need more info. What problems are you having with your truck that made you take to to mechanic?
Stealerships aren't the best place to take your truck to.
We need more info. What problems are you having with your truck that made you take to to mechanic?