1994 E350 Club Wagon 351w, E4OD Transmission. New MLPS, New VSS, New TPS, New Fluid, New Filter, 5 year old Torque Converter.

The Transmission dribbled a little bit from the front pump seal a couple weeks ago, I checked the level, it was a bit low. Topped it off with Lucas, the dribble stopped. I drove it successfully for another week. I took it on a 10 mile trip, and 5 miles in, it started slipping above, 35mph, I let off the accelerator, and the transmission "Caught up" and I drove 35mph the rest of the trip. I let it sit over night.

The next morning it acted as if nothing were wrong. I drove it some more, and the same thing happened. I parked it, and revved the engine up a bit, and it tried to MOVE in park, I put it in neutral and revved the engine, and it lurched as if it were still in 1rst gear.

This time I let it sit for 24 hours, and after work I successfully put 20 miles on it without missing a beat. It was shifting right, good solid connection between the gas pedal and the road, and I thought the problem was fixed, as the temperature the day before was -20, and it warmed up outside to 30 degrees above.

I parked it for a couple hours and went to go do the errands, and it wouldn't make it above 15mph. It even struggled to do that much. I put it in reverse, and it held great, no slipping at all.

Let it sit until the next morning, and it was better.

I pulled the Codes, and it gives me a 63(7) TOT High, and a 62(9) Torque Converter Clutch

It may or may not be relative, but Cruise hasn't worked in about 6 months either.

What am I missing here? What could possibly causing this trouble? Fluid is up and new.

 

I never heard of 63(7) and 62(9). Do you mean 637 and 629? I know what those are.

I think the forward clutch is fried. It appears to have been welded together at one point. That's when it drove forward in neutral. I think a rebuild is in your future.

 

I took it out for groceries this morning. Upon the cold start it drove wonderful. It held first, shifted correctly through the rest of the gears, and downshifted correctly at stop signs. As soon as everything started to warm up, it starts slipping.

Is this conducive to the forward clutch bonding itself? As in, it can be directly relative to fluid/component temperature?

As far as the Codes were concerned,


It flashed a 63, long pause, flashed 7

Then it flashed 62, long pause, flashed 9

There aren't any independent 7 or 9 codes, so I concluded they were part of the 2 digit code.

I suppose it would be a 637 and 629, respectively.

 

I have noticed my alternator is taking it's merry time to catchup, or respond to loads. I checked voltages moments ago, and when the engine idles, the voltage at the battery is 14.3, when I start to turn on lights, defroster, etc, the voltage drops considerably to 12.7

Is there a possible correlation between low output voltage not holding, or applying a particular solenoid?

 

Update:

After work, I checked the solenoids from the harness. I can fire #1, #2, Converter Clutch and Coast Clutch.

From the Chassis side of the Harness, I have 12 Volts on Red and on Purple. The Solenoid wires have 5 volts, which confuses me, as I thought those were only to close ground.

I took it out to the middle of nowhere, and screwed around. During this time, I reached 50mph successfully, albeit very slowly. It appears it loses it's grasp when the engine reaches 2,500rpm. It favors 1 & 3 gear. Second and OD seem to be very loose. I am able to take it through all 4 gears on it's own, and I can turn OD on and off Via the Shift Stalk Button. Everything is responsive. It acts like it is very low on fluid, although it is up.

Does this shed any new light?

 

It seems more and more is going wrong. My guess is that it is fried.

 

After complete inspection, it is now clear that a complete overhaul is needed.

I've never been too deep inside of a Ford Transmission. I have, however, been through countless GM TH350's and TH400's. Although I understand they are entirely different, the concept is the same. Is there anything particular about an E4OD that I will need to pay special attention to?

I have ordered a Platinum Kit, as well as a new Torque Converter, as I don't feel like taking this thing apart ever again.

Do you think a new pump is mandatory? Do they have a history of going out?


Thanks, Scott

 

Pump is usually good. Be sure the new input seal is of the improved material, the lip should be black or dark blue not gray or orange. I think you are going to need a new diaphram return spring in the forward clutch. That is where the trouble began. The spring breaks into pieces and they get jammed under the clutch plates forcing the clutch to apply when it shouldn't. Also the broken spring lets the clutch slip and burn up. The result is as MK said, fried forward clutch.

Here is some info that may be useful.

Check for wear in the center support, the forward drum sealing rings like to make grooves inside. An updated bearing type support hub and OD hub may be worth while if yours doesn't have the bearing type hub. The E4OD needs good bushings, buy the full bushing kit. Install a Trans-Go shift kit to get a new line boost valve, coast clutch snap ring upgrade and improved OD return spring retainer ring, your ring will most likely have fallen off. Disregard the shift kit's awkward direct piston seal upgrade, just use the OE seals from your overhaul set. There are improved reaction shells, the old ones often crack in the center. You need to remove the sun gear from the shell to inspect for cracks.

Good luck

 

Hey Vanaddiction, thanks the the info. Actually as of last night I finished the rebuild of the trans.

The Torque Converter that was shipped to me, turned out to be somebody else's core, so I sent it back and did not bother ordering another. Instead I filled mine with Gasoline and let it soak for a few days, then Drained it, and filled it again. Drained it and blew it clean.

The forward Planetary was exactly as you said. The Piston wear ring came loose, and was curled up into a mangled mess. The Piston return spring plate was shattered into 7 pieces, just as you said it jammed up the forward clutches and they could not unmate themselves. You pretty much nailed it.

I do have one more question, if you can help.

After buttoning it all up, I put it in reverse, and it feels very "Tight" almost like the self adjusters on the rear brakes are hanging up. The transmission feels like it is putting up a struggle to reverse. It does reverse, but if you let your foot of the accelerator, the van will come to a stop. IF you accelerate quickly in reverse, then it doesn't do it, and will continue to "creep" along.
Here are pictures if you care to see it.

Thanks, Scott
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=ea72c18114

 

I will try to help Scott. If you could answer a few questions it would give us more to go on.
What is that white goo holding the check ***** into the case? Something with a low melting point like vasilene I hope.

Any codes? Fluid level correct?

Did you tighten the (3) 8mm bolts on the small plate to the rear of the valve body?

Does it try to move forward in neutral or park?

In Drive does it take off in first and shift up through all the gears as it should?

Does it seem to be starting off in 2nd gear?

Are you, by chance, in Wisconsin?

 

Haha, the white goo is White Lithium.

No Transmission Codes,
Fluid Level is spot on,
The Three Bolts......I don't know 100%.. I triple checked everything before buttoning it up, and I looked at all of my pictures, and as far as I can tell, everything is right tight, so I would say I am 99% Sure they are tight.

It does not move forward in Neutral or Park. And it will Roll Frontwards or Backwards in gear, with the engine off.

It shifts beautiful through the gears, just like new. No more shutter or stalling. Starts off in First if I put it in 1 or D, if I put it in 2, it starts in second.

And Yes, I am 45 min from Milwaukee, 20 Min from Madison Right off I-94. You must be near Milwaukee.

 

That all sounds good Scott. I'm thinking that the lithium grease is some how to blame here. Looking over this PDF, http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2005...005_01_006.pdf, Fig 5 on page 10 shows the '94-'95 E4OD check ball diagram. Under the heading "The Rest of the Checkballs" I see a connection between Reverse and 2nd through both CB1 and BS1. This is just a theory, but because the grease has a high melting point of about 350*f, it may still be sticking around those ***** allowing a "crossleak" of Rev pressure into 2nd, making the Intermediate clutch or brake band drag in Rev., and by further driving it could resolve itself. If it were my vehicle, since it works well going forward, I would use it for a while longer to see if it does resolve, or dissolve, as the case may be. Of course try reverse occasionally but don't force it, just see if it feels normal and if not do more driving. The pressure of the hot oil will eventually work the goo out, it just may take a little longer. That is why we normally use a petroleum jelly that dissolves as soon as the trans fluid warms up.

One other thing, do you recall what you torqued the center support bolts too? They should only be about 120 in lbs (or 10 ft lbs) Over tightening is a common error and can distort the case, opening a path for pressure to cross leak from Direct/Reverse into Forward. Again, a potential for a clutch component that should be released, to drag when using rev. Let's hope it's not that.

And you are correct, I am just west of Milwaukee and work at a Waukesha trans shop. Let us know how this works out and if you need some help just ask.

 

I just checked the melting point of the Grease I used, and yep. You are correct. The jar I have said 360 degrees. I wish I would have checked before I used it. It's odd, during the summer months the jar of grease is very soupy, and I just assumed that it melted low, because of that.

I torqued the Center Support bolts to an even 10lbs. The bolts were free and clear, and were not grinding against the case when I put them in.

Waukesha! haha, Good Deal. I will actually be passing through Waukesha tonight on my way to Milwaukee. My Beatles Tribute band plays at the food and froth festival at the Milwaukee Public Museum at 7pm, that's actually why I've been stressing about getting the transmission fixed, as I need it to haul all my equipment!

I am going to drive it in reverse a bit, and see if I can't flush the grease out.

Thanks for your help.

 

Good luck with the trans, and at your gig! I'll be hauling my blues band up to Plymouth WI tonight in my van, I am the bass player and "road" manager.
Otherwise I could try to catch your act.

And, if your open to it may be we could get together at a jam/open mic some where down the road...

Keep us posted on how the trans does.
Brad.

 

Right on! What's the name of your Band? Is it Delta Blues, Chicago Blues, Southern? I've only been listening to blues for about 4 years now, the old stuff mostly, Muddy, Bo, Freddie and last week I discovered a blues band called Soup from Appleton. https://www.facebook.com/scott.hartwig1 if you wanna jam.