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28 degree deltas

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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 09:31 PM
  #1  
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28 degree deltas

Using my dashboss I saw some very high deltas this morning. Truck was fully warmed and oil temps were getting to around 215 and coolant was around 185 I was unloaded but I was stomping on it pretty hard and going around 80mph with a few Wot runs for the turbo of course.

Could this high delta be due to a busted tstat? The coolant system is anything but perfect....and takes about five min to get up to operating temp maybe this is normal I'm new to diesels anyways...


I've seen residue under the egr valve I beleive it's coolant, hard to tell....

Radiator has coolant residue in both top side corners looks cracked

There is what I assume to be a leaky egr coolant hose coming from the oil cooler,as it drips coolant in the am when it's cold.

I changed my oil to t6 with arch oil friction modifier, the coolant is crappy premixed stuff that is cat rated.

I have a cat delete and aside from that it's stock.

One day when time and money are abundant I want to do a stealth egr delete but until then I'm hoping my egr and oil coolers don't ruin anything, could it be time for this.

Also do oasis reports cost money to retrieve? I bought the truck a year ago with 109k there is 124 now

Thanks in advance

Ryan
 
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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 09:36 PM
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78fordman
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5 minutes seems pretty fast for warm up. This time of year mine idles for 10 min to hit a 100. deltas should be checked near 190F ECT, traveling 60 mph on a flat road. Go 60 for 15 mi and see what the delta is then go from there.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 11:37 AM
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I run about 8-12* difference running light! up to 18* pulling uphill.
Residue in your coolant bottle, coolant on your egr valve, and high deltas suggest taking a good hard look at your oil cooler being plugged.
Do you have a coolant filter now? Any sign of exhaust white smoke?
Sounds like a possible cracked egr unit.
If so, not something you want to drive very far with. Coolant in the intake is not a good thing, especially when the crack becomes a crevice.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 11:55 AM
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How would I figure out the oil cooler is plugged? I don't have a coolant filter and am leery about them, could be a good investment though.

There will be white smoke when it warms up, might be condensation.

I would sleep better at night if I tore the whole thing down and deleted egr and replaced oil cooler but I want to make sure it's nessesary. What li dog tests and troubleshooting can I do to get me more info that would help me make a desicion about the oil and egr cooler??

Thanks


Originally Posted by r2millers
I run about 8-12* difference running light! up to 18* pulling uphill.
Residue in your coolant bottle, coolant on your egr valve, and high deltas suggest taking a good hard look at your oil cooler being plugged.
Do you have a coolant filter now? Any sign of exhaust white smoke?
Sounds like a possible cracked egr unit.
If so, not something you want to drive very far with. Coolant in the intake is not a good thing, especially when the crack becomes a crevice.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Farmerrye
How would I figure out the oil cooler is plugged?
You already did when you posted your oil & coolant temps. The oil should not be 28 degrees hotter than the coolant.

You may want to confirm your temps with a different scantool first.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2014 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Farmerrye
How would I figure out the oil cooler is plugged? I don't have a coolant filter and am leery about them, could be a good investment though.

There will be white smoke when it warms up, might be condensation.

I would sleep better at night if I tore the whole thing down and deleted egr and replaced oil cooler but I want to make sure it's nessesary. What li dog tests and troubleshooting can I do to get me more info that would help me make a desicion about the oil and egr cooler??

Thanks
When you have coolant on your egr valve, it can only come from one place, breakage in your egr assembly. If operating properly, you would see exhaust residual only.

When oil filters plug up, they restrict coolant flow to the egr and allow them to overheat and crack, thus allowing the coolant to penetrate the exhaust passage and enter the intake where only hot gases should be.

The exhaust temps run between 1,100 to 1,300 degrees and without proper cooling with a restricted oil cooler for coolant, these guys crack.

Many you tube videos. Here's one to help.

 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 12:18 PM
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So egr delete and oil cooler upgrade/replacement are coming down the pipe, does anyone have any good instructions and parts list of how to do the stealth egr delete.

Also what about oil cooler, go oem or get soemthig nicer? Ipr ? What do people run?

Anything else I should do when I have the top end open? Clean turbo? Check injectors?

Thanks
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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There's a few ways to do a stealth/sneaky delete so it depends what you're trying to achieve. The simplest way is to have a stock up pipe welded where the exhaust goes into the EGR cooler. Search for up pipe mod. Doing it this way gives the option to go back to stock if needed without doing a ton of work. You still would have to get a new EGR cooler though and it would have the chance of leaking again, although not likely since its not being subjected to high EGTs.

Or the EGR cooler can be welded where the exhaust goes in, and where it comes out into the intake manifold. Done this way will prevent coolant from getting in the intake again but cannot be put back to stock without getting a new EGR cooler.

If you are going to install a stock style oil cooler, make sure you thoroughly flush the coolant system first. Good info on that in the tech folder.

Either way you will need a tuner so you won't get a CEL unless you have an early build truck. If you're going to get one SCT is a good choice.

Get a coolant filter. I just put one on 500 miles ago after doing the EGR cooler and flushing the coolant system. I am going to change the filter tonight so if I get enough time I'll cut open the filter and post some pics.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 04:11 PM
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I also have been noticing higher than normal deltas with my dash boss 198oil temp and 183-185 water temp. The glow shift gauges say 180-185 for water and only slightly higher for oil. Truck is deleted studed bulletproof water pump and more. Also running a tune from gearhead srl. Wondering what I should trust.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 04:26 PM
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Would recommended checking those gauges after a cold soak. That will at least let you know how they compare when cold.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 11:57 AM
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What is a cold soak? Do you mean just check the temps when it hasn't warmed up yet?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 11:59 AM
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I know something isn't right, coolant in intake and coolant loss from egr cooler hose. Bad news for me
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Farmerrye
So egr delete and oil cooler upgrade/replacement are coming down the pipe, does anyone have any good instructions and parts list of how to do the stealth egr delete.

Also what about oil cooler, go oem or get soemthig nicer? Ipr ? What do people run?

Anything else I should do when I have the top end open? Clean turbo? Check injectors?

Thanks
Go with an OEM oil cooler only. Unless your looking for a BPD setup.
I would pull the intake manifold and clean it along with all related sensors, and cleaning the turbo wouldn't be bad.

What year is the truck? Could use an upgraded STC fitting while your in there.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Farmerrye
What is a cold soak?
A cold soak is a way to check for sensor bias. After sitting all day/all night, the ECT, EOT, and TFT should all read within a few degrees of each other, and close to ambient temps. It's just to make sure one of your sending units isn't way off. An alternative method is to swap the ECT and EOT sending units and see if the temps change.

You're having a mechanical problem for sure with the wet intake.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 12:12 PM
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I see its an 04. Is it an early or late model?
 
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