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All things considered, remove the hitch. Protect your tank the best you can from sparks and control your grinders spark trail. Trailer hitches were meant to be bolted on for at least this reason. In the long run, doing it right will save you a lot of time and effort. Follow 77&79s procedure and life will be a lot better. If you take off the box you may as well rebuild it before you put it back on or sell it and go with a flat deck.
This is my homemade bed removal contraption. it works great and I can even move it around when its on the stand. I am thinking about making another one out of angle iron so I can take it apart and store it easier.
This is my homemade bed removal contraption. it works great and I can even move it around when its on the stand. I am thinking about making another one out of angle iron so I can take it apart and store it easier.
That's a pretty slick and simple setup, if I had an engine hoist it's be perfect.
I managed to post a pic of the offending hitch frame in my album, still don't know how to make it appear here, but it's located here:
In putting anti-chafe on the straps, an old inner tube, cut to fit, works well. And won't hold water/moisture like a tie down strap would. Last one I did on my 79SCab, I used POR 15 on the tank. Over 25 years ago.... Tank has outlasted the engine and body.
This is my homemade bed removal contraption. it works great and I can even move it around when its on the stand. I am thinking about making another one out of angle iron so I can take it apart and store it easier.
I like that!
I bought just such a hoist last year and it's legs fold up, and I added a foot in the back bone below the jack base to give me a better chance clearing a radiator support .... it should work well for this when I do mine this spring!
PS after looking at your pics, I think that hitch ought to go bye-bye. A good class III or IV bolt-on would be better.
I agree, it is a nasty looking piece of junk, but replacing isn't at the top of the priority list just yet, and I like having the ability to tow if/when I need to.
I need to fix the fuel leak quite urgently, if possible without knocking out towing ability, so if at all possible I want to leave the hitch. I don't fancy grinding the welds out either while there's a strong possibility of gas fumes in the immediate area.
It looks like that bar under the tank is the only piece that HAS to go in order to pull your tank. You could probably get away with using a sawzall with a metal blade. I've used my sawzall for all sorts of cutting, just hold on tight to it so that it doesn't kickback on you. The tank I removed yesterday came down on the passenger side and slid out quite easily. I used milk crates and pieces of 2 x 8 scrap wood that the tenant upstairs uses in his fire place. Tapped 2x8s out with a hammer and used my cat's paw [ pry bar used to remove nails, cuts body metal if you use a framing hammer ] to slip tank off of frame rails.
Take it out the passenger side, you will curse a bit and it will be tight. MAke sure you plug you fill hose, I used plastic grocery bags in a ball 6/7, 1 bag went into the vent line. the fill and vent tube has to be disconnected from box and hoses. The fuel sending unit is where you want to siphon from, just tilt the tank. I took out 14 gallons this way, good thing my front tank was empty. putting it in will involve a lot more cursing if that support is still there but if it comes out it will go back in. Good luck, it does look do able, just barely.
I won't have an issue with having to siphon fuel, the tank only takes about 10 gallons before it'll leak from that P.I.T.A filler hose, so by the time I'm ready to tackle it at the weekend it'll only have a gallon or two in it. Guess I'll know more once I get some bolts undone...
The PO told me he never used the front tank, so that'll be next. For now I'm limping along with just the rear, never more than half-filled. Luckily I only have a 5 mile drive to work.
The last 2 days were to cold for me to work on my truck, I've got to replace my fuel line from front tank to pump. It broke where it goes between the steering box and frame, but guess who still had the old fuel line from his f350 that he dismantled, and it still looks like new after 35 years. I'll take a pic of it and the filler / vent hoses and measuring tape so that you can see the measurement. the tank is beside the shed so I got to walk past it anyway.
What I do to lift beds found an old aluminum ladder and cut it so it fits underneath the bed rails and then I use a cherry picker or a hoist to lift the bed and move em off. Solo work made easy.
A 4"x4" cut just a little longer than the distance under the bed rails works great for this as well. Put it under at an angle, hook a chain to the 4x4 and cherry picker and lift away.
I did mine this way. With my cherry picker it does not quite balance. There is a slight angle. A light touch from one helper in front of the bed is nice. I also did it with no helper and blocks and towels with no scratches or damage.
Hi there, measured the hoses. They are each 14.5" long, the filler is 2.25" inside diameter and the vent hose is .75" inside diameter. Hope this is what you wanted.
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