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Yes, you said you changed the points, but did you set the dwell? If the dwell isn't set correctly, the timing isn't either. And, improperly set dwell can cause the engine to misfire at higher RPMs.
Does his motor have the harden exh valve seat in the heads.?
What was the highest & lowest compression when you did your testing?
Was #7 some what fouled?
And what type of gas has he been using???
orich
When you say the motor loses power does it do any popping back through the carb?
Then it keeps dying out until you let off the gas pedal again.?
Then the motor comes back to life slowly until you put your heavy foot into gas pedal again?
If yes, to this post then, I'd say the exh. seats are starting to burn out..
orich
40-45 lbs oil pressure on mechanical gauge at highway speeds goes up to 55-60.....used a brand new coil and then an older used coil and then the one off of my truck....he has drove the truck for 6 months prior to this issue with no problems and it only started doing this a couple weeks after he ran it out of oil...... and could you go a little more in depth on your number 2. JEFFFAFA
With that much oil pressure i don't think the cam lobes are wiped. Main,cam, and rod bearings are softer than a cam so in theory the bearings should be wiped before the cam. This would show up as low oil pressure. On my #2 I was talking about which coil was used. In the aftermarket world there are two style of coils. One like a factory one which is meant to be fed by Ford's resistance wire from the ignition switch when the engine is running. This cuts the power going through the coil and the points down to 6-8 volts to make the points last longer. The other style has internal resistance built in to it so it is meant to be fed by a full 12 volts when the engine is running. So if an internal resistance coil was used with the factory resistance wire the end result would be a weak spark.
Usually when an engine idles and revs fine but falls on it's face under load it is running out of spark or fuel.
1. Jiggle the key while it's running in the driveway and you have your foot on the gas. A loose ignition switch or electrical connection to the coil will cause your issue.
2. Put the rear up on jack stands and run the truck in gear. That will eliminate road vibration. If it runs good there look for a loose connection or worn through insulation on the wires feeding the coil.
they are new and the carb is not running out of gas, fuel problems have been eliminated as far as we can figure its more like it drops down to like 6-7 cylinders at certain rpms sounding like crap but other than the #8 plug which notoriously fouls every other week on this truck and is also the same one with slightly lower compression reading, but it really seems like its possibly cam related or fire related due to being able to adjust how and when it cuts out (higher or lower rpm) by adjusting the timing and the thing that gets me the most is that it ONLY STARTED doing this after he ran it out of oil
Off the wall here Smokin. Put your timing light on it and check to see if the timing mark bounces around. Both at idle and at about 1500RPM. Maybe when there was no oil it prematurely wore out the timing chain and/or gears. Retarding/advancing the cam.
1. Jiggle the key while it's running in the driveway and you have your foot on the gas. A loose ignition switch or electrical connection to the coil will cause your issue.
2. Put the rear up on jack stands and run the truck in gear. That will eliminate road vibration. If it runs good there look for a loose connection or worn through insulation on the wires feeding the coil.
#2's solution has several problems.........first off its pretty unsafe. secondly, on jack stands in drive really doesnt place any noticeable load on the engine, no wind resistance, etc. regarding solution #1, again no engine load, and you still have some vibration with an engine running, and doesnt the coil get its power through the "I" terminal on the starter relay?
think we got it figured out...... we had replaced all the wire from firewall forward well he brought it over and i looked inside the cab and found a place where the no-longer existing grommet was the wire was old and brittle and i assume it was grounding out against who knows what under the dash (explains why we didn't see any sparks under the hood) and i removed the little angle plug that hooks up to the coil and used a new connector and 1 long piece of wire (instead of 3 splices) and the truck hasn't done it since that we can tell so thanks fellas
Your spending alot of time on that, pull of the valve covers and check the valve lift. Easy to do and eliminate that as an issue. I can't think of anything else that lack of oil pressure would cause to creat the problems you're having, so it's worth a shot. VC gaskets are cheap.