Just picked up a B4000 from a friend. Good body and interior just a lot of misfire and hard starting. Got home and ran codes on it and got: P0174 lean bank 2, P0302 cylinder 2 misfire and P0306 cylinder 6 misfire. Went ahead and changed plugs, wires and coil pack since it had been sitting for a while. When started again, still ran rough just seemed a little better but still with hard start. Pulled codes after letting engine warm up and only got the 2 and 6 misfire again. Also engine would not rev past 3k. Put fuel pressure gauge on and got an initial reading of about 62 which dropped to zero in less than one second after pump prime. When running would indicate 62 to 65 with a lot of needle bounce (could be gauge). Thinking about replacing pump next or is it possible for a bad injector or two to dump this fast? Also old plugs appeared to have a "glazed" look comparing to chart in back of manual that I have.

 

you might have some leaking injectors on those two cylinders,,, never heard of pressure reading dropping that fast,,, i put a gauge on my old truck and 30 minutes later it only dropped ten pounds

 

Welcome to FTE.

Good trouble shooting on scanning for trouble codes & posting their Numbers & on performing the fuel pressure check & posting the Numbers & feedback on the static fuel pressure bleed off anomaly.

Sounds like you have more than one problem, but are getting a grip on them.

^+1 on putting runny nose fuel injector/s on the suspect list. The in tank fuel pump check valve also belongs on the suspect list, seeing as how static fuel pressure drops off so quickly.
You could isolate/check it by disconnecting the fuel line from the pump at a convenient point, like at the fuel filter & hooking up your fuel pressure gauge, turning the ignition switch to run, to pressurize the line, then when the pump cycles off, watch to see if pressure holds, or quickly drains off like you saw at the fuel rail. Dropping off as quickly as you described, makes me want to put the fuel pump check valve high up on the suspect list.

The glazed spark plug ceramics suggest a lean mixture, or maybe the wrong heat range spark plugs.

On the continuing miss, I know you said the coil pack, wires & plugs are new, but make them prove themselves. Raise the hood & at warm idle, after dark, look for a coil pack, or plug wire electrical breakdown light show along their run from the coil pack to plugs. With a spray bottle of water, spritz the coil pack & each wire run to see if a light show turns up from faulty insulation.
Make sure you routed the wires as the factory had them & use all of the stand offs & wire looms, so as not to induce high voltage electrical induction cross talk between the plug wires.
The specified Motorcraft fine wire pugs & plug wires & coil pack are recommended, as they are of good quality & designed to take the Double work load our "Waste Spark" ignition system puts on them.

On the won't rev above 3000 rpm, it might be the rev limiter kicking in, so we don't get crazy with unloaded rpm & have the engine come unraveled!!!! Or it could be from a clogged fuel filter & a low fuel volume over time at high rpm problem. We should get something like 1/2pt/15 seconds pump run time. A clogged fuel filter could restrict volume of flow.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

Thanks for the welcome, although I'm a returning member who just hasn't been active in a while. I'll check the suggestions and see what comes up. I'll have to figure a way to check the pump pressure like you suggested. Is there a simple way to make on adapter? If not, I figured up a way I may be able to make one using a fitting from an old fuel pump I haven't thrown out yet and I think I have a schrader valve from an old GM project still in my small parts stash. As for the misfire, I remembered something a friend of mine mentioned long ago about coil pack/distributorless ignitions not liking platinum plugs unless they were double platinum or standard plugs. Something to do with the way the pack worked. Since the two problem cylinders are opposite each other on the pack, I wondered if that might have something to do with it. Plugs I pulled and the ones I put in were both standard platinum. It may take me a while to get through everything though, depending on my work schedule, budget and other life issues (read ongoing divorce).

 

Here is a spark plug mini-tutorial that might address your spark plug questions. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-tutorial.html
Also a link on the system in the Tech Info thread atop this forums index page, that's worth reading through. Standard copper core, or single platinum plugs just won't last as long in our waste spark system, as they're not designed for its double work load & one cyl bank getting the reverse polarity spark. Spark gap erodes quickly & doubly so on the standard copper core non platinum pugs. They'll likely be out of gap spec in 12-15K.

Spark plugs 2 & 6 share one secondary coil, so on our waste spark system, when one plug is being fired on its power stroke, the other/companion plug is being fired on its exhaust stroke/waste spark. So if you are having a misfire on #2 & #6 cylinders, the plugs, wires & coil pack belong on the suspect list, even though their new, they haven't proven themselves, so the reason for the after dark wet down test suggestion.

Were these after market ignition parts & if so, what brand??? Have you had the old coil pack bench tested??? Most auto parts stores can do it at no cost & if ok, you'll have a spare.

Also have a listen to the #2 & #6 fuel injectors to determine if they sound different than the others.

Some starting thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

I would also look at a bad fuel pressure regulator as part of the problem.

 

Apologize for the lack of updates or response, work and life kept me busy.
I changed the plugs over to double platinum and still have the misfire, just not as rough as before. Also changed fuel filter as more of preventative maintenance. The fuel that drained out of the inlet side of the filter was pretty nasty, about the color of muddy water. I was told the truck had been sitting for a while, so who knows what state some things are in.

There is also a moderate (loud but not harsh) ticking sound coming from the passenger side of the engine. I thought it might be the timing chain issue so tried to narrow it down with a stethoscope modified with a piece of hard plastic tubing. Front and rear of engine where cam drives are is silent. Ticking seems most localized to back side of valve cover in area of cylinders 2 & 3. Maybe valve lash adjuster. I'll pull cover and take a look when time permits.

Noticed that the brake pedal was very firm when backing down off the ramps. Put gauge onto brake booster line and got a reading of 0-5 inches with needle wagging like an excited puppy's tail. It did go up to almost 15 when revved, but still erratic. Used stethoscope to see what I could hear, and when placed under intake plenum heard a distinct pop-pop-pop sound varying with rpm. I'm suspecting bad gaskets there or is there something else under there that might cause issues? I can hear similar sound although slightly muffled when scope tube is place directly against plenum.

I've got most of my pieces together for adapter to check fuel pressure on pump side of filter, just need to get it put together. I assume the larger of the two lines on the filter is the inlet, but do I need to block opening on filter afterward or should it be ok?

 

If this puppy has been setting for a while, put a gummed up/sticking PCV valve on the erratic vacuum reading suspect list, along with sticking valves.

If you have, or can come by a scantool that's able to perform a cylinder balance test, have it do that, as it could provide clues to which cylinder to look at more closely.

You said you replaced plugs, but did you also replace the plug wires??? If so what brand did you use?
Did you use the specified brand, or design spark plugs for our waste spark system, not one of those multi electrode ground lug designs I hope, as our engines are kinda persnickety about the plugs & wires we use, for the reasons I outlined above.
Also, after dark do the wet down test at warm idle, looking for a arcs & sparks light show, or a change in idle speed or quality, as suggested above.

 

I don't have access to a scantool or know anybody who does, so will probably have to put that on hold until later.

Would the PCV valve cause that much of an issue with the vacuum? Although, I did try placing a piece of paper over the oil filler with the engine running and it didn't suck to it like other engines I tried it on to check PCV operation. I'll check it out.

The plugs I put in are Autolite double platinum APP5144. I don't go in for the gimmick plugs since I tried a set of Splitfires in my Firebird. I threw them out after five passes at the strip. The plug wires are Duralast, not my first choice but they came with the truck and were already in the process of being changed out. The remaining unchanged wires were Belden. Some of my choices are going to be limited by budget right now so any suggestions on decent economy priced parts would definitely be welcome. Once things improve financially, I'll look into getting better parts where I can.

The coil pack I mentioned earlier I got from Advance. It's Carquest/BWD branded on the box. I haven't had to deal with coil packs before this, so I'm a little unfamiliar with them.

 

Ok, well on the scan tool, you could consider opting for the inexpensive ELM running freeware FORScan. A good one for a smart phone, laptop, ect display device, can be had for about $25 from Amazon seller BAFX as discussed here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html & can take an in depth look into All of the vehicle computer/controllers for trouble code clues, which can help focus a trouble shoot. I bought a WiFi model ELM a few years back to trouble shoot my Ranger ABS woes & it quickly got my trouble shoot back on track & solved. My LYL seller appears to no longer sell on Amazon, but BAFX is said to be trust worthy by folks on the TCCA forum. One member here has posted a successful purchase from them more recently.

A PCV valve when operating properly is a controlled & calculated for vacuum leak, if they stick, or stick open it can cause vacuum & fuel trim mischief.

If you don't want to invest in the ELM, use your inexpensive vacuum gauge to help get a grip on what's mechanically going on with the engine. Scroll down & View the various display scenarios, to determine what it's telling you here. How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge

Sounds like you did ok on the plugs & coil pack, as it's thought that Autolite makes Motorcraft plugs & BWD makes all kinds of equipt for the car mfgrs & their products for the most part enjoy a favorable after market option to expensive OEM parts.
Go here https://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com to have a look for Mfgr & Seller discount codes to use with on line orders & if we opt to pick up in store, we can save on shipping, all so we can get a better bang for our $.

The chosen Duralast plug wires I don't know, some have reported break down problems right out of the box, so if you didn't perform an end to end resistance check, I'd do that. They should measure about 2K ohms/inch of length, 30K ohms max, no matter the length)
I'd also perform the above mentioned after dark wet down test to check their & the coil pack insulation quality & the plugs ceramics for any mfg, shipping, or installation damage. If they'll pass those tests, all is likely well for now, but who knows how long on the plug wires will last if they're not designed to take our waste spark system Double work load.
Make certain you routed the plug wires Exactly as the Factory had them, using all wire looms & stand-offs.

If you haven't already done it, I'd consider a Techron, or Startron fuel treatment to help tidy up the old gas in the tank & any gas tank, fuel system, injector, or combustion chamber deposits that might have formed during its down time, especially if the fuel tank wasn't full & if the fuel wasn't stabilized. Maybe consider changing the fuel filter after the treatment.

I'd also have a look at the air filter & in the air box with the filter removed, all the way to the inner finder liner air intake, for critter nests they like to build in there, that'll choke off air flow.

Use a good motor oil that's known for its cleaning ability & a good filter that'll catch & hold what it cleans up.

All this to try & ensure you have a good repair base to continue your trouble shooting work from. More thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

Did the wet down test and nothing made itself apparent. All dark underhood.

I did check the air cleaner box as one of the first things when I got it to the house. The lower box had some shell remnants in it but the filter was intact. I haven't checked the duct into the fender yet. I'll do that one in the morning.

While looking at different angles to see if I could see anything under the plenum that might cause the noise I heard, I found what looks like a nest that something built. So, I'll probably have to get that out first before I continue too much further since it looks like it could become a fire hazard. Also, if there's a nest there, then something might have been chewed on.

Might have to put this on hold for a little while until I get that mess cleaned out and then go from there. Make some room in the garage so I don't tick off the neighbors by taking stuff apart in the driveway.

Thanks for the help and suggestions so far, I'll come back to this when I get organized.

 

Ok, good to hear the new secondary ignition parts passed the wet down test, so sounds like you did good on that part & they re good to go.
Good find on the critter nest & your right, they like to chew on wire insulation & that can cause all sorts of mischief.
Sounds like you have a pretty good grip on the resurrection, will be interesting to hear how it goes, so keep us posted.

 

Well, thanks to work and life in general, the project slowed down a little although I did manage to get the manifold off today to check out the mess underneath. I didn't find any evidence of anything being chewed on after I cleaned the mess up. The only things I noticed was that the intake mounting bolts seemed a little loose and the larger amount of residue around #2 port. I have a Haynes manual that lists them at 89 in lbs, but their picture also shows a manifold with 12 bolts while mine only has eight. Was that normal for this year/engine or is this possibly some aftermarket replacement? The mounting flange is fairly stiff so it looks like it should spread the load fairly well.
I'm going to check a few more things such as lash adjusters and rockers before I put it back together so I can make sure I don't have to go back in anytime soon. I did put a picture of the nest in my gallery before I took a shop-vac to it. At least there wasn't a carcass in there to deal with.

 

A pack rat has Really been busy stuffing things in there.
Cyls 2 & 6 are paired together at the coil pack & it looks like something has been going on with both of them, especially #6, maybe a leaking intake manifold gasket?

 

And the saga continues.......
Worked at getting the valve cover off, broke the small nipple on the thermostat housing so get to add that to the list of items to get.
Did a good look over with the valve cover off and lo and behold....... a broken valve spring on #2 cylinder. It's the one towards the front of the engine looks like the exhaust just by lining up the ports.
Now for the big questions:
Does this pose any major issues to be aware of?
Any special tools or tips needed to replace it? (a special tool is mentioned in Haynes manual for removing the rocker arms that uses the cam as a leverage point and pushes down on the valve spring)
I have pretty good mechanical ability so major work is not an issue. I got a pretty good grip on my limits and when to hire a pro.