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I know I could stand to lose a few pounds, but in the meantime.
1966 F100 2WD
Since I would like to switch out the steering column anyways, is there a shorter one? One that would give me a few more inches between the seat and steering wheel?
I think the 78-79 trucks could be had with a tilt column. Its not a direct bolt in, there is some wiring modification needed and if you want to run your current steering wheel the top of the steering shaft will need to be trimmed down.
I believe the auto columns are shorter. On my auto column, I still wanted it shorter, so I just cut about 3" out of the middle of it and welded it all back together. Freed up a lot of room. Be careful with cutting the steering rod. Unless your an experienced welder yourself, you might want a professional to do it. You don't want it breaking loose while your driving down the road. Lot of torque on that rod. However, if its a power steering unit, there isn't near as much torque on the rod.
To my knowledge all horn button to firewall measurements are same. The Saginaw connect point is 2 1/3in closer to firewall in the engine bay making the total column length shorter but same overall length.
Columns are probably the more modifiable & or swappable part in the truck. Buy another and cut away. Keep the original for backup in case you don't like it.
Well my steering column is a standard, but the PO put in a C6 Auto and hooked it up to the manual shifter. So its fun driving with park being at the bottom and low being at the top.
I plan on getting a replacement, just curious if one from another year / truck would work and be shorter. I prefer an automatic column, since I plan to keep the auto trans. Of course I'd also like to fine one with power steering if possible.
John, I do believe your right. Its been a long time since I did that modification. I have an auto column but I also have a power steering unit so I believe the column section between the firewall and the coupler is shorter and since the steering column bracket is fixed, I do believe I cut the 3" from between the bracket and steering wheel. I did so many things to that particular truck, guess I forgot. Could blame it on getting old and slow up stairs, but I chooooooose to believe I'm getting younger...
Thanks MR, there are visual differences in the years, but 65-79 F Series have the same basic lay out from the rear cab mount to the front bumper. I needed floor pan repair in a 66, had a 76 donor parked close, pulled the mat and said dang this looks about the same. Being an interior trim carpenter I grabbed my tape measure and started mapping. Every way that I measured it kept being the same. My very first project, I stripped the sheet metal off the chassis and was stumped with the 4 in longer measurement so I sold it as scrap. Today, I would try moving the body to the newer chassis after shortening it. I'd pull the cab & front clip in one piece. A lot of shortcuts are available but we don't think them out.
Oh well we choose to think differently, now guys are mangling these ol trucks making them stoopid lookin azz draggers.
IMO, the only difficulty with the p/s upgrade is having to deal with the steering column issue, if the truck does not have P/S may be a good time to do it. Occasionally browse the Ebay Ford pickup parts items and have not seen 67 thru 79 steering columns lately; manual, auto, or otherwise?? I would not deal w. shortening the existing column if the ideal set up would be to locate an auto column and once determine which column, one would think the great state of Texas salvage yards would be a source. Understand in using later model column one can swap the dash column bracket thus not have to use spacers??
Another option possibly 'I did it', 'flaming river' and 'summit' performance has their own band column which appear a little cheaper but still they all seem kinda pricey for me??
Article on subject may find helpful in the 67-72 Ford pickup forum, keeping in mind the measurements for the shaft, column, and shift tube may be different with the 65-66?
Just curious, I have a ps box out of a '72 donor truck and also a column out of same truck.. When I get column mounted to steering box there is a good gap in between the column mounting bracket and the brake pedal/lower dash that column bolts too.. Is there a trick that everyone who does this swap performs or do you use metal spacers? Thanks for any advice guys!
Seem to recall member mentioning swapping brackets by removing tack wells then re-tack weld the original bracket onto the replacement column thus eliminating the need to use spacers??? Suggest wait for conformation, perhaps member(s) who has made the swap can advise?
I put a 79 column shift in my 65... I didn't do any measurement from the firewall to the end of the wheel though. I did remove the mounting bracket from a original 65 column and swapped it onto the 79 column so I wouldn't have to use spacers