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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

Help with some maintenance items

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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 05:41 PM
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Help with some maintenance items

Hi folks, I need to change my oil and fuel filters. Im getting conflicting part numbers on the fuel filters. I want to do both engine mounted and frame rail mounted ones. Are the both in the kit or are they purchased individually? Also what oil is good to run? Ive always had my ford dealer do this in the past but after last time the yahoo didnt give me the warm and fuzzies so I wanna tackle myself. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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FD-4617, only use ford filters!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by slowmans
FD-4617, only use ford filters!
I do know about sticking to oem filters... Does that part number have both filters in it??
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 12:31 AM
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Yes........
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 01:21 AM
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Also, I use to use Rotella synthetic oil in mine, but after several Blackstone reports and some comparing them with others who were running just dino oil, I found out that the Ford Motorcraft oil 15w-40 was actually better at keeping some levels of certain things in my reports where they should be rather than the Rotella. I'll probably get slapped in the back of the head on this, but unless you run in really hot or cold weather, I'd say stick with the dino oils. Any would be fine but I've had good results with the Motorcraft stuff. Plus with these trucks needing their oil changed on the severe cycle no matter what, there's not much benefit to the synthetics vs dino. (I've put my helmet on. Let the slapping begin!) Ask Senix about it. He'll back me up on this I'm pretty sure.

Just my .02 cents worth, which probably ain't worth that.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 06:04 AM
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Dino is good as long as it is not too cold out. That was all I ran with my 6.4.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 06:29 AM
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Thanks guys ! Will prob just stuck to motorcraft oil
Then. I will report back in a few weeks when I get it done.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 08:04 AM
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I ran Motorcraft for the first 75,000 miles and reports were great. I'm in my second interval with Rotella Synthetic and I honestly feel my truck has better starts. I'll run a report on this OCI to see the difference.

Whatever you run, make sure it's CJ-4 rated.

Definitely make sure you use OE filters. Have not heard any good stories of people running aftermarket or generic for lengthy periods.

A colleague of mine refuses to listen and calls me after every oil change because he takes it to the quick change neighborhood store.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ssharber
Also, I use to use Rotella synthetic oil in mine, but after several Blackstone reports and some comparing them with others who were running just dino oil, I found out that the Ford Motorcraft oil 15w-40 was actually better at keeping some levels of certain things in my reports where they should be rather than the Rotella. I'll probably get slapped in the back of the head on this, but unless you run in really hot or cold weather, I'd say stick with the dino oils. Any would be fine but I've had good results with the Motorcraft stuff. Plus with these trucks needing their oil changed on the severe cycle no matter what, there's not much benefit to the synthetics vs dino. (I've put my helmet on. Let the slapping begin!) Ask Senix about it. He'll back me up on this I'm pretty sure.

Just my .02 cents worth, which probably ain't worth that.
What levels were high in your reports??? I've been seeing a steady increase in Aluminum which has me worried. Its been going up for the last 20K miles. I'm going back to Motorcraft 15W-40 on the next change to see if that helps at all. the latest sample showed 127ppm aluminum. I know that aluminum comes from pistons and such, but there are many other aluminum parts the oil passes through. As to what grade the aluminum is, is hard to say, blackstone doesn't go that far into it. I've been discussing this on other forums.. I'm changing the oil and sending in a sample next week that will have about 1200 miles on the oil. and i'll be switching to MC oil and then running another 2-3K miles and testing to see if that improves anything.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by p8ntballn2
What levels were high in your reports??? I've been seeing a steady increase in Aluminum which has me worried. Its been going up for the last 20K miles. I'm going back to Motorcraft 15W-40 on the next change to see if that helps at all. the latest sample showed 127ppm aluminum. I know that aluminum comes from pistons and such, but there are many other aluminum parts the oil passes through. As to what grade the aluminum is, is hard to say, blackstone doesn't go that far into it. I've been discussing this on other forums.. I'm changing the oil and sending in a sample next week that will have about 1200 miles on the oil. and i'll be switching to MC oil and then running another 2-3K miles and testing to see if that improves anything.
Mostly my potassium and boron levels, and some others, can't really remember exactly what it was but I did have some higher metals for a few reports. Can't truly say when it comes to metals whether it has anything to do with a specific type of oil but at the time there were several others who were seeing a trend in their reports who were using Rotella and it seemed like the logical thing to do what with others who were using Motorcraft having good reports. I remember after switching being pretty pleased and have never looked back.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RM2738
I ran Motorcraft for the first 75,000 miles and reports were great. I'm in my second interval with Rotella Synthetic and I honestly feel my truck has better starts. I'll run a report on this OCI to see the difference.



Whatever you run, make sure it's CJ-4 rated.

Definitely make sure you use OE filters. Have not heard any good stories of people running aftermarket or generic for lengthy periods.

A colleague of mine refuses to listen and calls me after every oil change because he takes it to the quick change neighborhood store.

What's wrong with Wix filters? Sure aren't cheap.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by diamondrcattle
What's wrong with Wix filters? Sure aren't cheap.
Racor filters hold the patent on the motorcraft filters. So...in other words other brands do not have the exact fit required.

Using other filters, especially oil filters could lead to oil starvation.

Read this...it may have been a direct contributor:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-housing.html
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by p8ntballn2
What levels were high in your reports??? I've been seeing a steady increase in Aluminum which has me worried. Its been going up for the last 20K miles. I'm going back to Motorcraft 15W-40 on the next change to see if that helps at all. the latest sample showed 127ppm aluminum. I know that aluminum comes from pistons and such, but there are many other aluminum parts the oil passes through. As to what grade the aluminum is, is hard to say, blackstone doesn't go that far into it. I've been discussing this on other forums.. I'm changing the oil and sending in a sample next week that will have about 1200 miles on the oil. and i'll be switching to MC oil and then running another 2-3K miles and testing to see if that improves anything.
SCOTT: This is the first highlight-free report we've seen from your F250, even with the heavy towing. It was a long time coming, but the wait was worth it. It's not a perfect report; aluminum and iron are still a touch high compared to universal averages, but not enough to worry about. The other metals look great. The viscosity was in the 5W/40 or 10W/40 range, and there was no fuel or coolant to worry about. Low insolubles and silicon show good oil and air filtration. Run 5,000 miles on the next oil if you want to and check back.

AL: 21

This was with 86K on the truck with most of those miles heavy towing.
M/C dino 15/40WT
 
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