When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm swapping the 460 engine & C6 tranny in my '87 F250 4x4 for a '93 351W (no EFI or other crap) and a ZF5 tranny. I have been told that I need different motor mount towers in a different location and that the drive shafts will be different. I am also looking for some advice on the flywheel balancing requirements. If you know anything about this swap, I'd appreciate any advice.
You will need to remove the 460 perches (either bolted or riveted to the frame) and replace them with perches from a truck that came with a SBF.
Get the pedals/clutch master and hydraulic hose from a manual tranny '87-? F-Series.
You also need the frame crossmember from a truck with a ZF and will probably need to relocate it on the frame (unless the C6 and ZF are the same length).
Definitely replace the slave, clutch set and pilot bushing. Don't skimp on the clutch set - I used a cheapo Zoom set and it's noisy in neutral. If the flywheel on the 351 now can't be resurfaced a new one is only ~$75. Just get one for a '93 F250 4x4. They balance at 28oz, IIRC.
The transfer case shifter may be an adventure. Get everything from the donor truck if you can, although it may require cutting a hole in your floor.
I'm told that I'll need to move the cross member back one inch for the ZF5 tranny and that my stock drive shafts will work. But, you raise another question: With the granny low gear and my differential ratios at 4:10, I could pull a train. But, I would also be wound tight a 80 mph. Since I'm building for economy, a comfortable rpm is desirable at 80 mph. Are there any suggestions out there on options available for changing my differential ratios?
The ZF5 transmission has either a 0.76 or 0.77 overdrive ratio. There are different gearsets that were produced.
Coupled with the loss of the open torque converter on the C6 your new setup will turn about 30-35% less RPM on the highway than the old setup. I'd try this first before changing the axle ratio.
In the process of switching the brake pedal mounting frame from my automatic transmission truck to the brake and clutch pedal frame required for a manual transmission, I discovered that there is an outline for the hydraulic clutch master cylinder on the inside of the firewall. It seems like Ford would provide for an easy installation of the clutch cylinder, but no... There is only one hole drilled for the lower bolt on the master cylinder. I can figure out where I should drill the other bolt hole. But, I also have to drill out about a 1 1/2 inch hole for the master cylinder shaft. I think I'm correct here but I would like to hear from someone who has done this before. I hate drilling holes before I'm absolutely sure about it.