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ya they told me they werent going to change the oil cooler wouldnt it be right there next to it to be replaced or would that be quite a bit extra to have them repalce it. (They told me 1960$ to do egr delete flush coolant system and oil change along with gaskets. does that seem like a fair price o and that icludes the tuner in it.)
ya they told me they werent going to change the oil cooler wouldnt it be right there next to it to be replaced or would that be quite a bit extra to have them repalce it. (They told me 1960$ to do egr delete flush coolant system and oil change along with gaskets. does that seem like a fair price o and that icludes the tuner in it.)
Go somewhere else. It is evident they are idiots. The oil cooler must be replaced. And to get to the egr cooler there really isnt anymore work to do the oil cooler. They are ripping you off and setting themselves up for later repairs from you.
Go somewhere else. It is evident they are idiots. The oil cooler must be replaced. And to get to the egr cooler there really isnt anymore work to do the oil cooler. They are ripping you off and setting themselves up for later repairs from you.
I'd run a chemical cleaner through the system (VC-9/Restore +) before you cracked anything open (see the link on the #1 tip on the Maintenance Tips page at ficmrepair.com for a great how-to from one of my customers) to get rid of any crud in the system first, replace the oil cooler, do the EGR delete, pop in a coolant filter, and then run a CAT-1 rated extended life coolant to be done with with the issue forever.
Assuming this is on your 06, I'd also have the STC fitting replaced at the same time given the labor involved to get that far in.
Just to add to the consensus here, you're getting some good info. I would add that even a pressure test is "iffy" on determining if the EGR cooler or head gaskets are leaking. A badly leaking EGR cooler can 'act' just like head gaskets on the pressure gauge. Coolant in the intake is definite cooler leak. Has the EGR valve been pulled? Certainly driving the truck with a leaking EGR cooler and coolant loss stresses the head gaskets. Water flashing to steam during combustion raises cylinder pressure much higher than usual, I wouldn't drive it until repairs are made if at all possible.
Also, a proper cooling system flush is time consuming (read expensive at a shop, and often not done correctly), I would consider doing the flush at home first even if a shop is doing the work. It does involve idling the truck a bit but the cap can stay off during the process so little pressure in the system. There are a couple of very good write-up's in the Tech folder and Sr Master Tech has a two part video on YouTube that is good also. Just use distilled water for the last couple of fills.
They all seem to have their own personality but fully warmed up I was seeing 195-205 empty at highway speeds (coolant at 189-198). Hanging around 198 most of the time. Drops pretty quick when I get back in town. My temps dropped with the first cold spell this year and I'm running a cheap thermostat right now. Coolant temp hangs around 180 oil temps are 184-188. (New thermostat for me soon)
Important thing is the difference between coolant and oil temps. 15* or more difference, Ford says you need a new oil cooler. Some guys report almost identical temps with a new cooler, I see 4-8 difference. Important thing is the closer to 15 you are it's beginning to show a problem. Also, a clogged oil cooler is the prime suspect for a leaking EGR cooler. The oil cooler clogs on the coolant side and becomes a restriction to coolant flow to the EGR cooler (its the next component in the coolant circuit). The reduced flow allows the EGR cooler to overheat which causes it to crack internally. So although it is possible for the EGR cooler to split on it's own, it unlikely and it's highly recommended to change the oil cooler if the EGR cooler springs a leak.
STC is "snap to connect" fitting on the oil pump. Common failer and with the intake off it's just a matter of pulling the oil pump cover and replacing it. $65 part that can leave you on the side of the road. The replacement is a solid metal piece without the "snap" feature.
They do make an OBD splitter cable but it depends on the devices as to wether it will work or not. You can get one from Amazon for less than $15 but I haven't had much luck with it. It's kind been "hit and miss" I think, some people have had success. Some devices will work together and some don't.
thanks I think im going to go raise hell at the mechanic shop. I tried calling today to descuss the oil cooler thing and couldnt get anyone to call me back . I feel like 1960$ is quite high for egr delete,programer,intake gaskets,oilchange,and radiation flush. That does not include the oil cooler.
do you agree or does this sound fair to you. I thought this company was respectful and maybe if you think that price is fair. But i have called around and every time i ask how much for a egr delete they tell me they have to see it as if they have never done one. So im scared on what to do . I dont want just anyone working on it . But im also scared these guys arnt working to repair my truck but working to make sure i come back for other work.
BINGO^^^^^Right there actualy leaving a BAD part in there that most likely caused this that's the Oil Cooler
This 6.0L has ben around long enough that its Very Well know to Change the Oil Cooler with the EGR Cooler
2 years Back my local Ford here wanted around 1500 to R&R a Oil Cooler Alone
Where are you At???
You can also pull EGR Valve to verify Blown EGR Cooler
This^^. I mentioned a couple of times but didn't explain well that the EGR VALVE is easy to get to and just a couple of bolts. Checking for coolant at this point is quick/easy and should have been checked by the shop. Coolant at this point would indicate EGR COOLER leaking(head gaskets could also be leaking). Dry soot in this area would indicate the cooler isn't leaking and points toward head gasket issues. In other words determining head gaskets are the problem requires pulling the heads but a leaking EGR cooler can be verified before the work starts.
I agree that $1960 is a premium price for an EGR delete and tuner but not "crazy money". I would be concerned the truck gets fixed correctly the first time. Repeatedly shelling out big bucks isn't fun and even an honest mechanic can cost you $$$ if he doesn't know what he's doing.
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