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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 02:22 PM
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Valve Adjustment?

I have a 79 351W.

Just bought the truck and tinkering with it. Had a clatter, so while tuning up the engine, I thought, well why not adjust the valves...

Popped the right side valve cover off, very clean to my surprise, reached down to the first valve spring and its loose as @#@$. So ok, I go to tighten it down, but its cranked all the way down, no more room to go.

You can see a video here

1966 F100

The video is #31.

Any idea of what is wrong? Wrong push rods? Lifters not right? Etc?

I would appreciate any help that you can give.

Thanks,
Richard
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 03:06 PM
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I don't have a caliper cable of true measurement but I just measured one of the push rods using my tape measure, and its right at 8.125.

From what I see online, the stock rods should be 8.150, not sure how much difference that makes, if that's the issue, or if its something else.

Richard
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 03:25 PM
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I have verified my block is a 79.

However the heads, I'm not sure of. The spark plug uses the 13/16 socket, the head has 351 under the valve cover, and it has stud rockers.

Any help on identifying the heads would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Richard
 
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 01:45 PM
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Not an authority but if already have not done so, I would probably start at the effected cylinder(s) and check the clearance, if extremely loose suggest remove rocker arm and take a look at the pushrod and any damage. If able to get the engine running, suggest taking a narrow hose, or stethoscope type of apparatus and see if able to narrow search down to particular cylinder(s)? Fairly recently replaced cam and lifters as a first time 'do it myselfer' on 302 and found, in my case, adjusting rocker arm assembly required each cylinder be placed a TDC on the compression stroke, then tightened to zero lash, at which point added 1/2 turn. First attempt found zero lash does not mean one can not rotate the pushrod; rather, adjust until feel the slightest drag then add the 1/2 turn. Anyhow, it worked for me. In my case, found that after 15K miles on a rebuilt 302 the lifter seized and eventually beat the heck out of the cam lobe; needless to say, won't be giving them any more business??
 
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by daveengelson
Not an authority but if already have not done so, I would probably start at the effected cylinder(s) and check the clearance, if extremely loose suggest remove rocker arm and take a look at the pushrod and any damage. If able to get the engine running, suggest taking a narrow hose, or stethoscope type of apparatus and see if able to narrow search down to particular cylinder(s)? Fairly recently replaced cam and lifters as a first time 'do it myselfer' on 302 and found, in my case, adjusting rocker arm assembly required each cylinder be placed a TDC on the compression stroke, then tightened to zero lash, at which point added 1/2 turn. First attempt found zero lash does not mean one can not rotate the pushrod; rather, adjust until feel the slightest drag then add the 1/2 turn. Anyhow, it worked for me. In my case, found that after 15K miles on a rebuilt 302 the lifter seized and eventually beat the heck out of the cam lobe; needless to say, won't be giving them any more business??
These rockers are tightend down all the way, no more to go, yet I can still move the push rod up and down about 3/16", and I can move the rocker side to side about 1/4" There is no zero lash on these

Richard
 
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 02:22 PM
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You have positive stop rocker studs, there's no adjustment on these. Torque em down and it's done. 351W heads never had adjustable rockers from the factory.
 
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