When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just read through the whole GP sticky and didnt see it in there.
My WTS light cycles as normal and my battery has a big draw on it but once the light shuts off, the draw is still there and its not clicking like it used too.
I did some wiring repairs to the truck yesterday and after that is when it started. I installed some aftermarket sunpro gauges and i needed to ground the OE wire of the oil sending unit so I grounded it to the bolt to the left of where the old sensor was and one of the GPs that I had fixed the connector on before had come undone so I refixed it.
Idk if either of those have anything to do with my controller. From what I can tell from the battery draw is that the plugs are still cycling, the truck starts up but I havent checked to see if they still cycle even after it running.
any help? im going to undo that ground I made and see if any of the wires on the controller got bumped.
Mine does the same thing, not sure if its normal or not. Just replaced GPs and still barely starts so i guess its time to overhaul the GP system.... was hoping to wait and do this when the engine was out, but it decided to throw a fit
So does anyone actually know the cause or solution? I havent had a time to mess with it yet, just got back from work. Im messing with it tomorrow though. I think Im going to run all new gp wires with new connectors
My WTS light cycles as normal and my battery has a big draw on it but once the light shuts off, the draw is still there and its not clicking like it used too.
I havent checked to see if they still cycle even after it running.
when you say; when the light goes out,and it doesn't do the "clicking" (the on/off cycle at this time is called afterglow) but rather maintain a big draw,how do you know this? the volt meter is staying pegged towards the low side of the gauge rather than swinging back and forth?
I know what he means.. when you turn the key on, and the GPs kick on, the light stays on for 15-17 seconds, however the GPs stay hot for another 5-6. I know this from the draw via the gauge, and the sound of my fuel pump is identical. What throws me off, is there is no after glow like this. But if i cycle the key once, it stops glowing as the light goes out, and i have after glow.
That is how mine used to be, now however they only glow for like 7-8 seconds, i get after glow, but it acts like half my plugs are bad.
well,when i first got both trucks,i removed the ground wire for the controller.cleaned it all up,applied a little grease (then put it back of course) and then ran those tests using a multi meter.it's extremely easy.takes 10 mins or less,and tells you whats wrong.removes all guess work.it's a very basic system.
Problem with mine is a shop already messed with the wiring while my dad had it, i think that is most likely where the culprit lies. I also have a few connectors that are pretty rough, need to dig out the multimeter, but im to lazy to lol. Time to just get a new harness and be done with the stupid thing. Its just a pain in the **** to do it in the truck, i wanted to wait until the engine was out and the IP lines werent in the way.
I bypassed the factory gauges and put in sunpro gauges (including a voltmeter) when the plugs are cycling its down around 10vs while it runs its close to 14v but when it clicks it goes from 10 to 12v
I bypassed the factory gauges and put in sunpro gauges (including a voltmeter) when the plugs are cycling its down around 10vs while it runs its close to 14v but when it clicks it goes from 10 to 12v
there's nothing wrong with that as you stated.
how long does the volt gauge/audible clicking continue after the light has goes out/after you start the truck?
this is known as afterglow and helps keep the engine running smooth/reduces white smoke at startup.it's normal operation of the glow plug controller.unless you state something else/additional info besides what you just did here,it appears it's working correctly.
Well it used to click which I knew was normal, but now there's no clicking or pulsing of power it just stays a constant drain.
if it stays a constant drain,then the controller has failed in the ON state (not typical with the 87+ system) and has/or will burn out your glow plugs and it's likely the alternator won't keep up after a while and both batteries will go dead.i suppose the plugs will burn out far before this happens though.i wouldn't take the truck anywhere.hopefully the plugs come out easy.
time to get the multimeter out and see whats going on.10 mins or less you'll know.
if it stays a constant drain,then the controller has failed in the ON state (not typical with the 87+ system) and has/or will burn out your glow plugs and it's likely the alternator won't keep up after a while and both batteries will go dead.i suppose the plugs will burn out far before this happens though.i wouldn't take the truck anywhere.hopefully the plugs come out easy.
time to get the multimeter out and see whats going on.10 mins or less you'll know.
Ok thanks, ill have to mess with it more tomorrow after work. I dont actually have a test light but Ill pick one up from work tomorrow.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.