Previous owner put a top-oiling system in place, I had disconnected a while ago, and just got around to removing the old "T" that split off from the hole the sensor screws in to.

When attempting to install the oil sensor into the engine block, it only goes in a few turns (just up to red band in image below - the "green" highlight box), and from looking at what I disconnected, the "T" went in much further to the block (the "red" highlight box).

So, two questions, I guess:
1. how far should it go in, and
2. how much pressure should use on this to turn it (maybe I just was hesitant)

Below are the old pieces, and I've highlighted how far the T went in, and how far (I think) the sensor went in to the block. Note: when the sensor was screwed into the T, it went past the red marking.

 

There's always the old guideline for perfect torque "tighten it until it snaps off, then back off a quarter turn."

If you're sure the threads are the same then continue. Tolerances for the brass stuff is a lot looser so its not unexpected that you'll be able to go further in.

The red stuff is a thread sealant, and is probably slowing your progress a little, but the correct depth is "until it doesn't leak." If you have some other compound or Teflon tape use some. Be sure to clean the block area well first, tighten it as much as you feel comfortable and then check it for leaks after some time. If its leaking try tightening it some more, but use the correct sized socket rather than channel locks or such, it will provide much more uniform torque across the whole sensor head and you won't risk crushing it.
Good luck!

 

If you didn't rebuild the engine, be prepared to hear tappet noise, the outside oiler was put on for a reason.

 

It wont be tappet noise, but rocker arms squealing and then rattling as the shaft wears out. Y block Ford heads feed oil up through a passage to the rocker arm shaft then to the rocker arms themselves. There is a double 90 degree turn - one as it comes out of the block at the head, then a second as the oil passage goes to the rocker arm side of those heads. Sludge would (will?) build up then close those holes off limiting then stopping the lube oil. If the engine has been rebuilt, the block, heads and rocker shafts cleaned along with a new detergent type of oil, that engine will be good for many miles - as long as the oil and filter are changed regularly. Adding a PCV and removing that wire gauze and road draft tube will also help reduce the sludge. The top oiler was a band-aid that usually worked well until a major engine internal clean up. There was also an inertia device that would clean the head and block passage without engine disassembly, but it was a half-assed fix that only put off the inevitable.

That pressure sender fitting - probably a 1/4" NPT. Check it against a known new fitting along with the one you removed. You can do that at your nearest Home Depot/Lowe's - black iron is usually better then galvanized.

 

B6A-9278-B .. Oil Sending Unit-Stamped #6 / 1/4" -18 pipe thread (Motorcraft SW-667).

 

He has already done that since it was turned into the opposite end of the 1/4" tee that the 1/4" nipple was turned into. There is most likely old thread sealant on the block oil sending port. Do you have a 1/4" pipe tap to chase it out with. If you play with these old things long enough you will end up with everything need need by the time the project is complete. I would also clean the old thread sealant off the sending unit and apply some new stuff such as:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...229_0424508297

Certainly not the only one but it has always worked very well for me.

 

What are you using to tighten it? There is a special socket for oil pressure sending units.

 

Thanks for all the comments, they really do help. A few notes:

When I bought the truck back in Sept, it was smoking a ton out the exhaust, and leaking quite a bit, so I took the top oiler off right away, and it's been off for 4 months now. When I took the oil pan off to re-gasket, the engine had signs of oil, not sure if it's enough, but I think the top oiler an unnecessary accessory. I also have the oil pump off, and am checking (as much as possible) the passage for gunk.

@Bill: engine diagram in illustration catalog shows 9278 to the right (towards rear) of the oil filter - mine is/was just to the left (towards front), right below the petcock/cyclinder block drain (8115). In the diagram, it shows 87710-S (P-16) [Plug (cyl block xxxxxx) - 3/8" pipe] in the hole where I removed it. It's odd that the plug says 3/8" but your 9278 is 1/4". If 3/8" is correct as per manual, then a 1/4" thread would just slide in. I cannot find 9278 in section 60.4 of the parts book, and my "book" is really just a scan of the pages in a PDF, so it's unsearchable.

p.s. On my engine, nothing is to the right/rear of the filter. Just FYI...

@spurredon: I am cleaning the threads, as it looks like the copper pipe had something on it when put in.

@Jim: I hate to admit it, but I'm currently using channel lock pliers. But, I'm being gentle :-)

 

9278 will be found in group 9000, engine parts are group 6000.

B6A-9278-B = 1957/63 Ford Truck Parts Catalog: Text, Section 9278, page 1359.

 

Couple of things.

Pipe nipples usually have more thread engagement than devices such as oil pressure sending units and switches. So a pipe nipple will thread in farther. Same with tees and fittings - they are generally low precision

The red stuff on your oil pressure switch is a factory applied thread sealant. When the threads with the sealant on them start to go into the block, it will take more twist to turn them. It is usualy good for 2 to 3 remove and installs. If you clean it off and use a different sealant (Permatex No. 2 is a good default) make sure you do not use too much, an the threads need metal to metal contact to ground the switch.

For tightening, on things like this I use the same guidelines as spin on filters - get it as tight as you can by hand (I put a socket over it and turn socket by hand), then turn it about 2/3 more of a turn.

There are several pipe thread standards. Pipe and fittings are usually NPT. Automotive fittings and devices are usually what is called "PTF SAE short". All have the same threads per inch per size, but tapers and thread engagements are a little different. But they still work together.

 

Hi When I installed mine on my 292 Y Block on the side of the Block, it did not screw in very far either but as long it is snug you will get a good reading. Mine till this day does not leak and is reading right because my light turned off and is working properly. FYI.....