Is it time to replace the wheels?
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 399
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Is it time to replace the wheels?
'94 Ranger with aluminum wheels.
I have problems with slow leaks and vibrations from multiple wheels. Both problems have persisted through multiple tire changes over the years. The same shop has always done the tire changes and they tell me they've been balancing the wheels and cleaning the inner rims. The vibration went away after putting on my B2 wheels. Then swapping the rears back to the ranger wheels, 2 at a time, the vibration was back for both test drives (hence vibrations from multiple wheels).
The wheels are badly corroded at the rims and valve stems which leads me to believe it's the wheels themselves that are causing the leaks. I haven't heard of excessively old wheels causing vibrations though which is why I ask.
I will likely be buying some craigslist or junkyard replacement wheels but wanted to "check in" first.
I have problems with slow leaks and vibrations from multiple wheels. Both problems have persisted through multiple tire changes over the years. The same shop has always done the tire changes and they tell me they've been balancing the wheels and cleaning the inner rims. The vibration went away after putting on my B2 wheels. Then swapping the rears back to the ranger wheels, 2 at a time, the vibration was back for both test drives (hence vibrations from multiple wheels).
The wheels are badly corroded at the rims and valve stems which leads me to believe it's the wheels themselves that are causing the leaks. I haven't heard of excessively old wheels causing vibrations though which is why I ask.
I will likely be buying some craigslist or junkyard replacement wheels but wanted to "check in" first.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 399
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids, MI
That's a good point. I was considering trying to find wheels from a significantly newer Ranger. I'll have to find out when Ford did away with the 14" wheel option. Another option might be to take the tires off and sand/clean the inner rims really well. I still can't figure out how the old wheels could be causing vibrations... but they do seem to be doing just that. I did notice a large buildup of grease (likely from overfilling a tie rod end) that could be contributing.?
A appreciate being able to bounce ideas off somebody else. Sometimes a second perspective helps you know?
A appreciate being able to bounce ideas off somebody else. Sometimes a second perspective helps you know?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
14's didn't last much beyond 97/98 time frame.
Leaking due to corrosion can be cured by cleaning off the corrosion and covering with a coating of clear to help prevent it from returning.
The vibration issue can be from corrosion around the center, where it fits over the hub, or on the backside where it meets the hub. If they cannot be mounted on the hubs 100% true, then they will cause vibration.
Same method may be able to save the wheels.
Alloy wheels against steel/cast iron hubs + salt, will lead to corrosion on the alloy. Sometimes it gets bad enough to make getting the wheel off almost impossible, without a BFH (big frickin' hammer)..........
Leaking due to corrosion can be cured by cleaning off the corrosion and covering with a coating of clear to help prevent it from returning.
The vibration issue can be from corrosion around the center, where it fits over the hub, or on the backside where it meets the hub. If they cannot be mounted on the hubs 100% true, then they will cause vibration.
Same method may be able to save the wheels.
Alloy wheels against steel/cast iron hubs + salt, will lead to corrosion on the alloy. Sometimes it gets bad enough to make getting the wheel off almost impossible, without a BFH (big frickin' hammer)..........
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 399
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids, MI
I hadn't even thought of corrosion on the hubs. And that info on the 14's helps.
Would it be a bad idea to remove the tires myself? I've always changed my motorcycle tires with tire specific pry bars. My motorcycles have tubed tires though and I understand tubeless can be a lot more finicky. Maybe it's best to trailer the wheels into my shop, have the tires removed, then take the rims home for cleaning?
I did consider new wheels too but with the age and mileage of my little Ranger I think the cost of wheels might exceed the value of the truck.
Just not worth it.
Would it be a bad idea to remove the tires myself? I've always changed my motorcycle tires with tire specific pry bars. My motorcycles have tubed tires though and I understand tubeless can be a lot more finicky. Maybe it's best to trailer the wheels into my shop, have the tires removed, then take the rims home for cleaning?
I did consider new wheels too but with the age and mileage of my little Ranger I think the cost of wheels might exceed the value of the truck.
Just not worth it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
Taking tires off the wheels is not hard. It's breaking the beads loose that is hard........ Can be done without a tire machine, but I won't even try. Of course, we have a nice tire machine where I work.....
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,979
Likes: 2
From: central ohio
...i did a brake job on a '03 escape with alloy wheels, they were corroded to the rotors so bad that none of them would break loose. i ended up having all the lugs loosse, and drove slowly through my trailer park over speedbumps/curbs. one by one i heard them "pop" loose. yes, its possible that a buildup of grease in one spot from a balljoint could slightly affect balance. on changing tires, its worth it to take the tire/wheel assemblies somewhere and have them dismounted for you...its alot of work to try and do yourself. ive thought about getting my own tire machine, but damn! they are more expensive then you would think! (and take up alot of room, esp if you just use it for yourself)
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
...i did a brake job on a '03 escape with alloy wheels, they were corroded to the rotors so bad that none of them would break loose. i ended up having all the lugs loosse, and drove slowly through my trailer park over speedbumps/curbs. one by one i heard them "pop" loose.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,979
Likes: 2
From: central ohio
i beat the hell out of the first wheel with my dead-blow hammer, but all i succeded in doing was marring up the rim....any time i do a brake job and alloy wheels are involved, i put a light coat of anti-seize on the backside seating surface of the rim. i hate rotors that slide over a hub, its almost guaranteed they will be ruined, head and hammer ar the only thing you can seem to do there.... one time me and my dad were trying to brake the bead on a tire, using the front bucket of a loader tractor, i stood on the one side of the tire to (try) and keep the tire from flipping up, after i about broke my legs, we tossed it in the farm truck and went to town, 2 miles away and paid the $10 to have the tire took off...money well spent! true the hard part is braking the bead, very rarly does the bead ever break easily.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 399
Likes: 3
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Great comments guys. Since any used Ranger 14's I find will be nearly as old as mine, and probably just as corroded, I'll plan to have a shop remove my tires, then clean/sand the wheels as best I can, have the shop re-mount the tires, and see if that helps. If not I'll just continue to live with it as I have done for years. This mini project will likely happen in April when the weather gets better and I start driving the Bronco II again. The big project now is the B2's firewall (see other thread) so this wheel project will have to wait its turn anyway.
The wheels come off the hub fine but I do have that problem on our Taurus, and usually end up putting the rear end on jack stands and kicking the tire from underneath. Recently I did sand the mating surface which did help a lot.
Rust sucks here in Michigan. Most of my major repair work is related to it (firewall, bodywork, core support, suspension, fuel system, on and on). Even those jobs that aren't directly related get roped in with rusty bolts and whatnot. Vehicles could be maintained to run forever if it wasn't for rust.
The wheels come off the hub fine but I do have that problem on our Taurus, and usually end up putting the rear end on jack stands and kicking the tire from underneath. Recently I did sand the mating surface which did help a lot.
Rust sucks here in Michigan. Most of my major repair work is related to it (firewall, bodywork, core support, suspension, fuel system, on and on). Even those jobs that aren't directly related get roped in with rusty bolts and whatnot. Vehicles could be maintained to run forever if it wasn't for rust.
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holland501
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
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Aug 21, 2004 12:16 AM