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Apparently the alignment of the metal tang on the float with the needle is critical. As the float pivots on the shaft, the tang slides over the top surface of the needle. If the tang contact surface is not square to the needle seat fitting guide hole, the metal needle will rub against the seat fitting and not close off properly.
lots of so called "rebuild" kits these days were "crafted" by the high paid workforce in the People's Republic of you know where..........the parts are of poor quality, or specs are nothing more than "hope".....
lots of so called "rebuild" kits these days were "crafted" by the high paid workforce in the People's Republic of you know where..........the parts are of poor quality, or specs are nothing more than "hope".....
would happen to have a recommendation for a brand of rebuild kit? I have a E2TE-AYA sticker on my carb and am researching a rebuild kit. I have the carburetor removed and about ready for taking it apart. I'm looking at a walker rebuild kit currently #15863 for $50. The plan is the take it apart, soak it for a day or two and put it back together.
Are there any other companies that make a quality rebuild kit?
After searching the U-Tube video base, found a series of videos on the Motorcraft 2100/2150 2BBL carburetor.
"Mikes Carburetor Parts" video series was the answer.
Apparently there is a wire clip that attaches to the float pivot shaft.
The purpose of the wire clip is to keep the float positioned laterally on the shaft and to anchor the float pivot shaft.
This wire clip is puched down over the groove machined in the brass seat fitting. This wire clip keeps the float from rising in the fuel filled bowl.
No where in the instructions sheet does it indicate how to position this wire clip. Used a carbruetor kit by HYGRADE in a blue colored box.
The instruction sheet only addresses the adjustments and not a step by step procedure on how to install the parts. Whats even more confusing
is the kit contains parts for various models of the basic carburetor.
To duplicate the parts the previous installer used may end up with an improperly rebuilt carburetor.
When the carburetor was disassembled, this wire clip was not positioned correctly and was positioned towards the free end of the float.
The previous kit installer did not have a clue how to position this wire clip.
If the wire clip is not pushed down to fit in the seat fitting groove the needle will fail to shut off the fuel supply the fuel will be pumped out the top of the carburetor through the two vent risers.
The video also noted, that the black colored floats absorb fuel and loose boyancy, over time, decreasing the resulting force applied to the needle to close off the float valve.
Repacing the existing black colored foam float with a new soldered brass metal float.
The floats are not included in the basic kit.
Acquired the truck, recently, which had been parked outside for 15 years in non operating status. All the fuel in the bowl had evaporated over this time period.
As a result of watching the video discovered that a part was missing from the carburetor. There is a solid steel cylinder shaped weight that rests on the top of the steel ball in the accelerator passage. This weight is not included in the kit and not available as part. This part could be easily lost and the installer not even aware of it.
From now on, buying all my carbruetor parts from Mikes Carbruetor parts, on line.
I'm not very educated on old carbs... I have a 1973 F250 as well, however, I've decided to put a new Motocraft 2100 2 barrel in it. One risk I had to take was cutting off a little roller to make a hole for the gas pedal linkage. I feel like I made a mistake doing so because now I have gas coming out of the vertical tubes in the top horn.
Hopefully, the problem isn't the removal of the roller I have shown below. Any information is extremely helpful.
From this angle, that roller looks like ones I've seen that just provides a non wearing mount for a throttle spring, the spring if used would snap into the groove, then there is no wearing of the spring or hole at it's hook in use. That thing above it that looks like a ball on a short spear tip is where the throttle linkage usually snaps on.
In any case, that roller is not connected to gas flooding the float bowl.
What do you think is causing the gas to shoot out? I read the threads above and they don’t make sense to me, as this is my first time messing with a 2 barrel. I just took the top off and don’t want to mess it up until I know the problem.
Could be one of a few reasons. Leaking brass float full of gas and not floating. Trash in between needle and seat. Bent float arm. Solid float absorbed gas and not floating. Too much fuel pressure. Some floats are sealed up brass boxes, others are made of a molded material that floats in gasoline.
My guess, most likely trash in the needle / seat keeping the needle from sealing on the seat. Might try lightly tapping the carburetor with a plastic handle of a screw driver, top or sides of the float bowl.
X2 on trash. Do you have a inline filter from fuel pump to carb?
Or since it is new, maybe the box got dropped hard and the little tang on float might have gotten bent
I took apart the carb today. You were correct. There was gunk in the carb because I didn’t have an in-line filter on. I smacked one on the hose and it did it’s magic immediately. Runs like a champ now. Thank you guys!
