Ok guy's let me tell you. Getting to the CHT-forget it unless I remove the intake on my engine ('97 4.6).

I tried the crows foot and it will go down in the valley but will not go over the CHT switch.

On my engine I have a hump next to the CHT and the crows foot will not work.

QUESTION*****
1. Does the CHT need a specific temp to work?

2. Will the CHT work and not cause the engine to go in limp mode IF it is in operating temp of the thermostat gauge on the cluster?

3. WHY can't I remove the CHT wire and Ty-wrap the CHT to the upper radiator hose ?

My thinking is it will then read and with a new switch not cause the engine to go in limp mode.

Worth a try-right.

Now, if I do that, then I would also have to ground the switch.

My thinking is the engine will not know the difference.

Ok-fire away.

Just willing to test this out.

 

Well it seems that Ford gave me the wrong part.

I used a 3/4" socket and 6" extension and it came right out.

Removed the alt and wire under it and I could unscrew it by hand.

Now that is with the plastic wire connection broken off.

So I will thread the new on in and see it I can snug it some how-that should be good enough seeing the threads have some kind if locker or inhibitor on them.

 

This is the correct part number for the CHT.

 

That white coating on the new CHT's threads is a locker or sealant of sorts---shouldn't need much else. Since the original had something similar and it threaded out with no problems that tells you a lot.

Are you going to experiment with attaching the CHT to the radiator hose? That would be interesting to know if it works.

 

Thanks.

If I can get it snug then I will put it back OEM style.

I was just thinking-even if it were on the rad hose, and the h20 left the engine, the upper hose would have vapor/steam-thus, might not get as hot as the head to cause the switch to activate.

After thinking about this, and my above statement, it seems that the mod in question will not work right and cause more problems etc.

 

No doubt you're right about the CHT relocation might cause more problems----good thought though, would be interesting for someone to try it!

 

Ok the CHT is installed; plugs changed out.

Used a 19mm open end wrench and worked at it-got it snug and that was it.

Tomorrow, O2sensors.

 

OK, so far so good-no codes yet. Will drive it around more and see.

 

Did you install the O2 sensors yet?

 

I know this is an ancient thread, but just for anyone researching this issue.

No. This is NOT a good idea. It's a sensor attached to a computer. You can't moonshine it. It is a cylinder head temperature sensor, not a radiator hose temperature sensor.

Even if the radiator hose were the same temperature as the head (it won't be), you would not get an accurate reading by attaching the sensor to the hose. Instead of being surrounded by the metal of the head (which is what it's supposed to measure), it would be surrounded by much cooler AIR, with a very small part in contact with the radiator hose, NOT the coolant.

Sensors are sensitive beasts. Treat them with respect.