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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 01:58 PM
  #16  
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A 10.25 and a 10.5 are 99% the same. Only difference is one bearing and the ring and pinion. As far as wheel bearings I'm not 100% sure of the difference.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 01:59 PM
  #17  
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I don't think a pic of inside will tell you anything other than for the LS. To get to the bottom of it I would just spin a wheel and see how far the yoke goes around and take it out on a gravel road to test for a LS. A 4:30 LS is pretty rare for a stock Ex.
Christina is right ; all Ex's had the 10.5 diff.

From Wiki;
The 5.4 L Triton V8 was rated at 255 hp (190 kW; 259 PS) and 350 lb·ft (475 N·m). The 6.8 L Triton V10 produced 310 hp (231 kW; 314 PS) and 425 lb·ft (576 N·m). The 6.0 L Powerstroke Diesel was rated at 350 hp (261 kW; 355 PS) and 560 lb·ft (759 N·m). In mid 2004, due to multiple 6.0 engines having injector failures, Ford down-tuned all 6.0 engines to 325 hp (242 kW; 330 PS). The rear axle for all Excursions was a Sterling 10.5 axle. The four wheel drive models were equipped with a NV273 transfer case and Dana 50 front axle.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 02:08 PM
  #18  
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The casting number is the last picture. It says "10 20 89" (or maybe the last number is 99, hard to read)
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 02:11 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
I don't think a pic of inside will tell you anything other than for the LS. To get to the bottom of it I would just spin a wheel and see how far the yoke goes around and take it out on a gravel road to test for a LS. A 4:30 LS is pretty rare for a stock Ex.
Christina is right ; all Ex's had the 10.5 diff.

From Wiki;
The 5.4 L Triton V8 was rated at 255 hp (190 kW; 259 PS) and 350 lb·ft (475 N·m). The 6.8 L Triton V10 produced 310 hp (231 kW; 314 PS) and 425 lb·ft (576 N·m). The 6.0 L Powerstroke Diesel was rated at 350 hp (261 kW; 355 PS) and 560 lb·ft (759 N·m). In mid 2004, due to multiple 6.0 engines having injector failures, Ford down-tuned all 6.0 engines to 325 hp (242 kW; 330 PS). The rear axle for all Excursions was a Sterling 10.5 axle. The four wheel drive models were equipped with a NV273 transfer case and Dana 50 front axle.
That is also what I found "already knew" after replacing both my axles. I've done a ton of reading. So why does his tag say 10 2? I guess the point I'm trying to make to the OP is I would NOT trust that tag, because it makes no sense, and if you aren't going to trust the tag on the 10 2 or 10 5, then trust nothing on it, until you find out for sure. If you want to change the oil, then go ahead and don't put modifier in it - take it for a spin and see if you have chatter before you go adding LS stuff to it.

Even if someone put a 10.25 in your truck previously, Ford doesn't list S415B for any axle other than a 10.50. It's a good mystery.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 02:27 PM
  #20  
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The ford tech that ran the vin on oasis said it did originally come with a 4.30 LS but like Sammie said, I'd sure love to know for sure.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 02:29 PM
  #21  
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Factories use a lot of #'s for a lot of things and I never take them too seriously, they can be the time of day it was made or anything. If he just marks a tire, spins it one time, and watches to see if the marked yoke spins 4 1/3 times it will be a 4:30 but I have a feeling it won't even reach 4 spins. Also, he can count the teeth on the pinion and divide them into the ring teeth.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 02:49 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by icentropy


The tag decodes like this
S - Sterling - Ford Axle made in Sterling, MI
415B - Model which is listed as 4.30 LS 10.5 put in EX by Ford 2000-2005 also found in F250 and F350's not sure on the years on those though.
"4"L30 - 4.30 Ratio (Can't see the #4 but I'm guessing under the bolt you will find a #4)
10 2 - means 10.25 (again makes no sense)
0B09 Date
0 - year 2000
B - month 2nd month February
09 - day the 9th
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 04:08 PM
  #23  
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sooooo

 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 04:14 PM
  #24  
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By the thickness of that ring gear it is probably a low ratio and I think it is a 10.25 because it only has a total of 4 spider gears and the 10.5 has a smaller window opening to see the spiders.........sure is dirty looking.
The 10.25 parts are a lot cheaper and easier to come by but have a smaller pinion gear shaft which had some wobbling problems.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 04:27 PM
  #25  
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Ooooo, that looks like mud.

How long have you owned this truck? My axle had serious water intrusion, but yours looks much thicker than mine. See pic below. I have always heard, light means water, too dark (almost black) means metal. So at least it's not black. But that seems really thick. Mine had some damage on the carrier (2nd pic) but that was taken before I cleaned anything off, just drained it and you can see the fluid isn't sticking to it like yours.



 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 04:48 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
Factories use a lot of #'s for a lot of things and I never take them too seriously, they can be the time of day it was made or anything. If he just marks a tire, spins it one time, and watches to see if the marked yoke spins 4 1/3 times it will be a 4:30 but I have a feeling it won't even reach 4 spins. Also, he can count the teeth on the pinion and divide them into the ring teeth.
I'm guessing i'm doing something wrong. I lifted a rear tire off the ground (TC in 2WD,Tranny in N) then spun the rear tire one revolution while my wife watched the yoke, she said it turned 2-1/4 times around. I tried to get both tires off the ground but there was no easy way to do it, don't know if that would make a difference.... The bottom of my fender flares are at my shoulders and the tires are still barely touching the ground.....
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 04:51 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by sammie0126
Ooooo, that looks like mud.

How long have you owned this truck? My axle had serious water intrusion, but yours looks much thicker than mine. See pic below. I have always heard, light means water, too dark (almost black) means metal. So at least it's not black. But that seems really thick. Mine had some damage on the carrier (2nd pic) but that was taken before I cleaned anything off, just drained it and you can see the fluid isn't sticking to it like yours.
Yeah this stuff is thick, doesn't help it's cold out, probably around 35-40°F. and i only drove it maybe 5 miles around before opening it up. But still it's very thick. Brown, looks just like thin mud. I figure i'll just get 2-3 cans of brake cleaner and start spraying and turning the wheels till it's as clean as i can get it, the inside is gonna be soaked in brake cleaner, i hope that's not an issue... So not a LS then? does that mean i can still use the synthetic oil but just leave out the tube of additive?

I got the tag off and there was a "4" before the " L 30" on the second line... oh and i've had the truck for a full year now. Probably put about 3000 miles on it or so total. I just looked and it's got 178K miles (i thought it was over 180K).
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 05:00 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by icentropy
Yeah this stuff is thick, doesn't help it's cold out, probably around 35-40°F. and i only drove it maybe 5 miles around before opening it up. But still it's very thick. Brown, looks just like thin mud. I figure i'll just get 2-3 cans of brake cleaner and start spraying and turning the wheels till it's as clean as i can get it, the inside is gonna be soaked in brake cleaner, i hope that's not an issue... So not a LS then? does that mean i can still use the synthetic oil but just leave out the tube of additive?

I got the tag off and there was a "4" before the " L 30" on the second line...
I think it is LS but you can't tell by looking at the ring gear (well at least I can't) if it were me, clean it up (brake cleaner is fine it will evap) then fill it up with 75/140 Syn and take it for a drive. If you get any sound on turns, then add some modifier.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 05:41 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by icentropy
I'm guessing i'm doing something wrong. I lifted a rear tire off the ground (TC in 2WD,Tranny in N) then spun the rear tire one revolution while my wife watched the yoke, she said it turned 2-1/4 times around. I tried to get both tires off the ground but there was no easy way to do it, don't know if that would make a difference.... The bottom of my fender flares are at my shoulders and the tires are still barely touching the ground.....
I'm sorry, you do need to spin both due to the gear reduction in the spiders. I thought about it after posting. Jack the axle up on both sides.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2014 | 05:48 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by icentropy
Yeah this stuff is thick, doesn't help it's cold out, probably around 35-40°F. and i only drove it maybe 5 miles around before opening it up. But still it's very thick. Brown, looks just like thin mud. I figure i'll just get 2-3 cans of brake cleaner and start spraying and turning the wheels till it's as clean as i can get it, the inside is gonna be soaked in brake cleaner, i hope that's not an issue... So not a LS then? does that mean i can still use the synthetic oil but just leave out the tube of additive?

I got the tag off and there was a "4" before the " L 30" on the second line... oh and i've had the truck for a full year now. Probably put about 3000 miles on it or so total. I just looked and it's got 178K miles (i thought it was over 180K).
I think it is an LS because they have the stepped down carrier housing. You don't need to use brake cleaner, I would just use gas or paint thinner, diesel, etc. since you will need a lot. If it is an LS is is probably shot with all that water in there. Good thing you caught it when you did. It would probably be easier and better to fill it with diesel oil and run it a few miles each time.
 
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