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the tech said that it "poured" out of the tubing when he removed it to replace the injectors. i didn't notice any oil consumption in the truck at all and drove it from Calgary to PEI. it did have a superchips cortex on it and it has a 5 inch exhaust as well.
you're the only person to say it would be cheaper to replace the con rod and piston. I'll have to get quotes from them if that is the issue to see which is best. my engine also has 265000kms on it with original head gaskets so its basically just waiting to die
I would agree with Bryan Cheaper to do a Piston
I Also Agree with Tim You Didn't post a Single hydrolock symptom and you WOULD KNOW if it Hydrolocked
Personaly I think your truck is killing injectors from Low Fuel Pressure
There is a SLIM Chance that a BAD Injector Burned a Hole in Piston
Originally Posted by dafunk
I'll have to head over and do some talking if this is the case. i also need a turbo charger as the seal is gone and its pumping some oil into the charge air cooler. donno if that is relevant information. I may get them to put some oil into the cylinder and let it soak overnight and try again I the morning.
That oil is Normal in Small Amounts
Normaly when the Turbine Leaks oil from a Turbo problem all the Oil Dumps out the exhaust
The Main Problem here (Correct me if I am Wrong) is the Fact the Folks selling you a New truck Don't want to give you any money for a Trade in AND there ALSO the Ones repairing your Current truck
Theres a Conflict of Interest here and You could be getting screwed
Personaly I would get your Current truck out there ASAP
And then Tell them to KEEP the Other New truck
Just for the Fact I thinking there 98% feeding you BS to Scam you out of Money on a Trade In
if the connectiong rods are bent it would be easier to replace the entire motor. push rods are best case scenario. apparently they can check which cylinder has low compression by using their scan tool. it doesn't show PSI but it shows which cylinder to check. its having a manual compression check done Monday. the tech is also going to check the valve train for abnormalities.
all you are gonna do with a scan tool is analyze rotation, and
find the cylinder that isn't pulling the sled.
it's called a contribution test. you can do it quite easily with AE
and a laptop. and software can't measure power output unless
it is hooked to a dyno. all it can do is infer. and good software
can do amazing things. measuring TDC relative to the deck height
isn't something most software does well.
here's the way i see it. either they are incompetent, or trying to
cheat you. either way, i'd get my vehicle out of there, and find
another dealership to buy a truck from, if you are of a mind to
do that.
when the cylinder died I noticed it right away and drove the truck home (40kms) and parked it then had it flat bedded to the dealership so it wasn't driven long enough nor was it under any sort of load so im doubting I melted a piston. I'll let them do the manual compression test and check the valve train.when thats done I'll go and have a look at it myself. im no diesel expert but I've torn a few engines down and played with the odd turbo charger so I might be able to see something.
its two dealerships, both ford and one owns the other, my truck was taken to the owned dealership (Montague Fair Isle) and the salesman I contacted is at the big dealership (Charlottetown Fair Isle) Montague didn't know I was interested in trading it until I told them after they told me I needed a turbocharger and some potentially serious internal engine work. so the trade I think has nothing to do with this. also, when it was just the two injectors we agreed to have that bill taken care of when the deal was finalized. but now its a different story as the truck needs more work than originally planned.
You need a mechanical compression test of 7 and several other cylinders to comp to. If the base engine is good, then I would be making sure you are not getting a low volt code for the injector, and check the harness with a noid light to verify FICM output to that injector. You could cheat and crank the engine with the FICM relay removed and listen for a smooth crank, IE consistant cranking. If it sounds uneven it shows a hole with low compression.
I tossed three codes at me when I checked it myself, number 5 cylinder contribution failure number 7 cylinder contribution failure and a third one about injector voltage to number 7 injector.
I didn't notice any smoke but at a idle it was "stinky" not of coolant but kind of a diesel/oil smell but zero smoke
YOU Would have if a Piston Fryed for SURE!!!
Originally Posted by dafunk
I tossed three codes at me when I checked it myself, number 5 cylinder contribution failure number 7 cylinder contribution failure and a third one about injector voltage to number 7 injector.