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Rigid light install question for upfitter switch

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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 02:19 PM
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Rigid light install question for upfitter switch

Just a quick question for the people who have installed rigid duallys or D2s. I see the lights come with a wiring harness which has a relay and inline fuses. Since I will be hooking these up to the upfitter switches I'm assuming I just cut the positive and negative wires coming directly off the lights and hook the negative to the battery and the positive to the pass through wire for the upfitter switch? I called rigid and they said that's fine but just wanted to double check. Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Wizness
Just a quick question for the people who have installed rigid duallys or D2s. I see the lights come with a wiring harness which has a relay and inline fuses. Since I will be hooking these up to the upfitter switches I'm assuming I just cut the positive and negative wires coming directly off the lights and hook the negative to the battery and the positive to the pass through wire for the upfitter switch? I called rigid and they said that's fine but just wanted to double check. Thanks.
I don't have those lights, but that sounds correct. You don't need their relay or fuses. The Upfitters have that already.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SavageNFS
I don't have those lights, but that sounds correct. You don't need their relay or fuses. The Upfitters have that already.
Awesome thanks sir
 
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 02:26 AM
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Quick question for you guys. I just bought a 2011 f350 and was going to wire up some lights, put my vhf in etc.. Where are you guys going through the firewall ? I see there is a big rubber grommet that the main wire bundle goes through,

In the process of swapping all my lights and stuff off my 2003 7.3. Pain getting things set up the way you like.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 07:24 AM
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That main bundle works. There are also a few grommets in the floor board about under the pedals if you are coming from the rear (I used this for my back up lights) to make it a bit easier to bring in from under the truck. Just dab the penetration through the grommet with some black RTV sealant so it doesn't leak.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by RussB
Quick question for you guys. I just bought a 2011 f350 and was going to wire up some lights, put my vhf in etc.. Where are you guys going through the firewall ? I see there is a big rubber grommet that the main wire bundle goes through,

In the process of swapping all my lights and stuff off my 2003 7.3. Pain getting things set up the way you like.

The factory provides you with 4 wires that pass through the firewall so you don't have to run your own through. They are cut and capped on each side. The engine ones are taped up behind the fuse box and the interior ones are part of the PTO bundle under the dash on the driver side right near the firewall.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Karl4Cat
The factory provides you with 4 wires that pass through the firewall so you don't have to run your own through. They are cut and capped on each side. The engine ones are taped up behind the fuse box and the interior ones are part of the PTO bundle under the dash on the driver side right near the firewall.
Great info! Are these 4 wires independent of whether or not you have Upfitter switches?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 11:31 AM
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You get them either way.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 07:49 PM
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Thanks for the info.. I'll have a look next time im working on it.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2014 | 10:06 PM
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I've used the rubber caps going through the firewall for various runs, such as SJOOW cable for light bars, RG-58 for fender mount antennas... just use a hollow punch tool to make a clean hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the cable (can't drill the stuff) and push it through.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 12:03 PM
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My only complaint with the pass through wires is that they are so deep in the engine bay and not very long. Doing any kind of splicing and soldering is more difficult than it should be.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by LaxPlaya21
My only complaint with the pass through wires is that they are so deep in the engine bay and not very long. Doing any kind of splicing and soldering is more difficult than it should be.
You got that right!!! I cant even fit my big hands near these wires, so I pay the guys who do all my trailer servicing to add to these wires "extension" wires coiled up in the engine bay that I can run or add to if necessary. They even marked them 1,2,3,4
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 08:43 AM
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You guys do know they are folded in half with tape rolled around them? If you cut or unroll the tape they double in length. Still short but certainly workable...
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Karl4Cat
You guys do know they are folded in half with tape rolled around them? If you cut or unroll the tape they double in length. Still short but certainly workable...
crimping for me was pretty much impossible. I ended up taking the wheel well off and soldering them. It was a lot easier than trying to fit my crimpers. Prob a better connection anyways.
 
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