Recently dropped tank for a few leak/fill issues. While reassembling the tank components it was apparent the screen at the end of the sending unit was coming apart. Don't know what this is made of, but assume it is there to stop junk from getting into the fuel line. Inside of the tank appeared to be in very good condition. Couple of questions come to mind. Where do you find a replacement? How would you attach it? Is it absolutely necessary? I know a new sending unit would solve the problem, but that is like killing an ant with a hammer. Why throw away $.

My truck is a 74 f100 360 w/2 barrel, 2 wheel drive and has a CA fuel return line to a charcoal canister.

I hoping someone else has bumped into this. This group has great feedback and depth of knowledge.

Many thanks...

 

Yes, they are necessary. They are still available from Ford for something north of $20.00 (!) Dennis Carpenter (Dennis Carpenter Ford Car, F-100 Pickup Truck, 8N, 9N Tractor and Cushman Scooter Restoration Parts) has them for around $7-9.00.

 

As a stop gap, and after cleaning my tank, I made one out of some screen I had and then put another filter inline. It's been working fine for a couple years but is getting replaced soon by newer and better stuff.
Not something I would recommend, but it can be a temp fix. Depends on the amount of time you have and what's available around you.
As Mike said,,,,,YES,,,, you need one.

 

D1AZ-9A011-A .. Plastic Mesh Filter Screen-3/8" I.D. / Available from Ford

1971/79 all FoMoCo vehicles (except Pinto/Bobcat/Maverick Comet, these use D1FZ-9A011-A 5/16" I.D.)

 

I had to put a new tank on mine to get it back on the road and had the same issue. My dad got real "clever" and came up with this (pictured) but I knew it wouldn't be there too long. That was a bout a year and a half ago. I've got it torn down to the frame now for restomod. It is definitely on the Replace list.

 

Many thanks to all for your input. Guess I will head to my Ford Dealer tomorrow. Already tried Autozone, they are close to worthless. Don't even carry gas line unless its high pressure fuel injection line @ $4 per foot.

 

Lotsa luck! Most dealers do not want to mess with vehicles this old, even if you have the part number. And most dealers won't have it in stock, so it will have to be ordered.

And since it comes in a package of 2, you will have to buy both. And, the price has gone up...way up! MSRP: $50.40 each!

You have another choice, Carpenter (Concord NC) sells the little darlin' for about $7.50.

If Carpenter has it, I would assume that CA located: Blue Oval Truck Parts (Anaheim), C & G Ford Parts (Escondido), National Parts Depot (Ventura), Sacramento Vintage Ford, Truck & Car Shop (Orange) would have it too....for a comparable price.

Mustang and T/B resto shops may have it, but the price will vary.

You can buy a "Genuine Ford" D1AZ-9A011-A from an FTE sponsor for cost + 10% ($33.26), but this sponsor is located in MN

If you post the city you're located in, I can tell you the closest Ford dealer that has it...in stock.

 

Thanks Bill. I live near Walnut Creek, CA

 

I'll be the odd duck, but honestly you dont need it. Put a clear inline filter along the frame right after the tank. You can use a metal filter if you wish. I like the clear plastic ones because they are easy to monitor. Your fuel line should be 3/8 inch, as the nipples coming off the filter should be. You want as much volume as you can, so dont use 5/16 filter. The only time you needs a "sock" at the fuel pick up is if you had an electric in tank pump. I dont have a sock on my aux tank, just a filter. Never had an issue. As long as you filter the fuel before the fuel pump, and one more at the carb, youll be golden
PS, I live in Dublin if youd like to swing by and see how I plummed 2 tanks and the filter system

 

No one in or near Walnut Creek has any.

Crown Ford in Redding has 4, Susanville Ford has 5, James Ford in Half Moon Bay has 1, Country Ford Trucks in Ceres has 1, Sonora Ford has 1, Swanson-Fahrney in Selma has 2.

Six dealers in here in LA LA Land have 8.

 

Great feedback. I did find the filter online @ Carpenter's for $10. The inline filter looks to be a good alternative. Now to ponder a tad.....

Thank you

 

Agree with 9 inch, you don't need it, if you put a filter in the line before the mechanical fuel pump, what difference does it make where its at? At the same time, if your's is clogged, you have to drop the tank and take it off anyway, so wtf not change it

 

The only thing I would say to the you don't need it idea is that you'd better make sure you clean the heck out of your tank.
When the original sock disintegrates there are many long pieces in the tank. Those along with any of the other accumulated crud will block the tube.
And if your already in the tank cleaning, why not do it right and put a screen/sock on.

 

The saga continues and your input invaluable....

I decided to install the check valve from LMC. I had it, it did fit, and I was having a pressure problem filling the tank. Although these tanks are apparently notorious for filling slowly this tank did not like the gas pump at all. Any attempt would gush back up the tube. Perhaps related to the pumps in CA???

Reinstalling the tank was a b.... My raw knuckles are proof, but it could be done and was done. Now the kicker. Everything was in place and looking good but there was one last connection. The connection from the check valve on top of the tank to the nipple from the metal return line to the charcoal canister. I was unable to determine the size of the hose from the old one, but it looked like 1/4" was a perfect fit with the valve from LMC. I also checked the fit with the old check valve and 1/4" looked good. I had cut the new line to match the old so everything should work. Right? Nope. The new hose did not give me enough to grab onto to work it onto the metal nipple. I tried every trick I knew. I made a slip knot over the hose and pulled while pushing the nipple. I even put soap on both ends to ease the suckers together. I used an awl into the hose to stretch it as well. Nothing worked. I am currently looking at a 99% installed tank that has to be dropped again. Some questions....

I now know that you should leave extra hose to work with while under the truck on your back. Is 1/4" return line correct? The regular fuel line is 3/8. 1/4 sounds disproportionately small, but fits the check valves. Perhaps 5/16 would work when the clamps are tightened. Any help here would be welcomed. I will probably give my hands a few days to heal and then I will be back at it. Taking those damn hose clamps off only to put them on again gives new meaning to the concept of patience. Regards....

 

Let me clarify the other point about the filter screen. I did get one from Carpenters and installed it. That was the easy part. The hose for the check valve appears to be the last barrier.