If anything's off, I'd say it's your tach. 2400 at 62 MPH just sounds too high, even with 4.10s. Fortunately, RPM is one of the few things that a generic OBD-II reader, if you have one, will correctly read on our trucks.

All the cluster stuff is controlled separately; issues are probably not related. The fuel gauge is easily explained - past full means the circuit is open (infinite resistance). Check the connector on the frame where the wiring from the front tank sending unit plugs in to the main front-to-back wiring harness. Either a bad connection there, or a break in one of the wires there.

Temp gauge is most likely either the gauge head or the sender. There are two senders on/around the water pump, one for the gauge and one for the temp light in the diesel-only section of the dash lights. I forget which is which. In any event, you can turn the truck on, pull the connectors to those senders, and jumper each one to ground. One or the other should "peg" the gauge needle. If it does, then the gauge head is good and the sender is bad. If neither one pegs the needle, then the gauge head is likely bad.

Just for S&G, you might want to slide under the truck and look at the (rear) pumpkin, see if there's a tag attached to one of the diff cover bolts. Look for a "10" or "56" just after the bolt hole. It's always possible the axle or its gearing has been swapped sometime in the truck's service life. If there's no tag at all, that suggests something's been done back there.

 

Awesome, thanks for all that info! Will be checking that out this weekend for sure! I'll look on the rear axle tonight!

 

As afar as the temp gauge... even on 100+ degree days my gauge rarely gets much past the n in normal.

They really don't mean much and they seem to vary from vehicle to vehicle. you will find your own "normal" range.

Richard

EDT: when yu get a chance to do the cooling system service (gooch iirc?) swap out the T-stat with a 203/205 degree. The engine will run better supposedly

 

His truck is a '95 model. It came factory with a short stem t-stat. So not only will the 203* t-stat that everyone swaps to not work in his truck, it is already a 203* t-stat from the factory, so no need to jack with it. LOL

OP, welcome to the OBS section of FTE! A ZF5 with 4.10s and stock sized tires runs very high RPMs. I would try to keep it around 60-65mph, but if it was me, I would swap out the gears or add a double overdrive unit to it to pull the RPMs back down to a normal range. With a ZF5, 4.10s, and a Gear Vendors double overdrive, you'll run a couple hundred RPM LOWER at 70mph than my truck does with a ZF5, 3.55 gears, and about 1" taller tires. Swapping out to 3.73 gearing wouldn't be terrible either. Still run a little high RPMs, but you should be able to kick it up to 70mph with out the engine spinning too terribly fast... 3.55s with a ZF runs about 2000 RPM at around 65mph in my truck..

 

Thanks for all the info yall! I looked at the rear end and I didnt see any tag.
I got busy with doing other stuff on the list of things so I have yet to get to the ground for the gauges. Probably tomorrow. I added a new radio and speakers. Only one worked and the radio had no aux cable jack. I'm content with all the stuff on the truck now. Just need to check the other stuff.
Question for ya. Do you recommend Lucas Tranny Lube? I don't think there is anything wrong with the trans one bit, but I heard that stuff makes for smoother shifting. It sorta has a stiff feel while changing gears. My old Mustang Cobra had the same issue.
Thanks again for all the help.