?
New looking for Duraspark help
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
The resistor wires I have seen are between the key and firewall and I'm assuming the OP built a new underhood harness only but it's nevertheless a good point and is going down the same line of thought I am - is missing or damaged or incorrect wiring causing the things to burn out.
Senior User
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Thx CPG. Let us know how that Echin works. I suspect my problem is the coil, as its the original from 1976 believe it or not, but now its getting hot just when I leave ignition on, but not running- but box may be fried as well
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Washington
Jim
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
It is now another of the offshore engine management parts lines.
Ex- BorgWarnerDivision.
BWD - Home
Kind of like Standard Automotive Products was back when /Blue Streak/ was synonymous with the best.
Ex- BorgWarnerDivision.
BWD - Home
Kind of like Standard Automotive Products was back when /Blue Streak/ was synonymous with the best.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Blue Streak was the best. I used them when My repair shops was up and going.
I had a full line of there products as well as there catalogs. This all before we had computers in the office. They was less cost than even Napa and mostly even better
quality than OEM. I still have some of there ignition sets. They had the first Uniset
that I had seen where the points and condenser was all one unit.
Definitely top quality. It deff wasn't Cicom back then. Is Blue Streak still around?
I had a full line of there products as well as there catalogs. This all before we had computers in the office. They was less cost than even Napa and mostly even better
quality than OEM. I still have some of there ignition sets. They had the first Uniset
that I had seen where the points and condenser was all one unit.
Definitely top quality. It deff wasn't Cicom back then. Is Blue Streak still around?
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
That's good ta know Jim. And about the only point ignitions I see around here are inboard Marine.
And Standard Blue Streak worked well for them.
I really found them as good or better than OEM back in the day.
The 80's mostly and although Duraspark and HEI was becoming popular there was still
a heck of a lot of what we called standard ignitions (with points) around.
And Standard Blue Streak worked well for them.
I really found them as good or better than OEM back in the day.
The 80's mostly and although Duraspark and HEI was becoming popular there was still
a heck of a lot of what we called standard ignitions (with points) around.
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New User
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Well it seems as though it was a number of issues. After some of you left posts about possibly more wiring issues (thank you) it got me thinking to check the circuit with the resistor wire and sure enough I couldn't get it to measure any resistance, like it was running full direct power. So out of frustration for the horrible wiring in my truck I just started over.
I got a three position toggle switch (on-off-on) and ran direct power to it. I then ran one side directly to the coil and the other through a universal 1.3 ohm resistor then to the coil. Now, flipping the switch down runs direct power to the coil for cold starting and once I get it running I flip the switch to the upper position to send power through the resistor. That combined with another new box from NAPA seems to have done the trick. Ran it for a while today and it ran much smoother than before and also stayed running. Felt the box and coil after plowing and they were just slightly warm rather than painfully hot.
Thanks for all the suggestions, hopefully it will run for a while now without too many issues. Not a particularly pretty fix but since its just my plow truck it works.
I got a three position toggle switch (on-off-on) and ran direct power to it. I then ran one side directly to the coil and the other through a universal 1.3 ohm resistor then to the coil. Now, flipping the switch down runs direct power to the coil for cold starting and once I get it running I flip the switch to the upper position to send power through the resistor. That combined with another new box from NAPA seems to have done the trick. Ran it for a while today and it ran much smoother than before and also stayed running. Felt the box and coil after plowing and they were just slightly warm rather than painfully hot.
Thanks for all the suggestions, hopefully it will run for a while now without too many issues. Not a particularly pretty fix but since its just my plow truck it works.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
If you was to wire through the ignition to the coil from the I terminal on the solenoid ya could get rid of the toggle switch. The I terminal puts out 12 volts when the engine is cranking. Once it starts and ya let off the starter it than transfers current through the resistor circet.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
They did it different after that Jim? Shows how old I am. What DS system
does my 85 Bronk have? I've often wondered. It's never been a problem so far.
does my 85 Bronk have? I've often wondered. It's never been a problem so far.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Spark retard is in the harness of my '87.
It was that way since Ford had gone to a Solenoid without an 'I' terminal.
I don't know what you have in your Bronco (by now)
DSII lasted as long as carburetors, until 1987 for 351 H.O. and 460 engines in vehicles over 8,500 gvw.
It was that way since Ford had gone to a Solenoid without an 'I' terminal.
I don't know what you have in your Bronco (by now)
DSII lasted as long as carburetors, until 1987 for 351 H.O. and 460 engines in vehicles over 8,500 gvw.
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