i have been having problems with my 351m dying on me. so i stop and it will start right up again. the truck is well maintained with a new carb and fuel pump recently. could the ignition box cause these symtoms or do they just fail completly?? thanks for any help. mudder trucker.

 

Yes, both the module and the coil can exhibit these symptoms. My module was the one cutting out intermittently, replaced it and have had no problems since.

Barry

 

don't discount the goofiest stuff...

I had an old car that would run fine, and suddenly die. After it sat for just a few minutes it would run fine, then you would never know when it would die.

Turned out to be a peice of silicone rubber floating in the gas tank. When it got near the pickup, it would clog it and run the engine out of fuel. As it sat for a few minutes, it would drift away from the pickup, and it would start and run fine.

Just something else to consider.

 

Get a module from the junkyard to try. Lots of places have a 90 day return policy. Try it to see if it works. Very easy to take off and put on. I thought I had that problem... I still have two units sitting side-by-side since I tried the switch. (problem turned out to be toast fuel pump)
On my 78 with 351M, the truck would die completely, then start later, like you say. Don't buy an aftermarket unit: I went through three in less than a year until I bought a Ford unit. Worked ever since. You might get lucky at the junkyard and find one that will last you ten years. They are a tough little unit!
Mark


https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=5362&.jpg
Ford started it; Ford will finish it!

 

My Duraspark ignition box has slowly been oozing its guts out onto my fender cap. I think it is the hardened epoxy type protectant that is supposed to keep the internals of the unit clean and safe that is oozing. I do not know what is causing it to ooze, butit does not foster much trust. I am anxious to upgrade to an MSD distributor / ignition box.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 20-Jun-02 AT 04:52 AM (EST)]Take the box to a GOOD auto parts store and have it tested. Most of them (I can't believe I am going to say this) know what they are doing. I believe BBB is on the right track when he mentions the coil.

 

Had a similar problem with my '78, many years ago; turned out to be a bad pickup in the distributor. That was all the prompting I needed to put a '79 distributor in it - MUCH better spark curve.

Mine only cut out when hot, though, and would restart as soon as it cooled down; ten minutes or so later in Michigan. Might have taken 'til November here in Texas!:-)

 

I agree with Redbob the pick-up is more likely your problem. Think about it the pick-up is exposed to much higher temperatures than the module and more likley to have the electronics brake down. I rember when Ford first came out with duraspark and people where having trouble with it and the first thing everyone did was run out and change the module only to find out that it dident correct the problem. Im not saying the modules never fali and if you can get one cheep to try go for it. But if your truck dies after it get wormed up and then you let it cool down and it restarts its probly your pick-up.
Just my two cents. Leadmic

 

 

Holy Cow Vedo...I like to take a good trip every now and then...But Ooooooo....I'd bet big $ it's the ignition module on the fenderwell. If you want to test this...do it like we do...when it quits get out and pour your favorite beverage over the ignition module. If it cranks you know. A little bit longer term solution is a bag of ice from the conveinience store on the module. If you've got one that's pukin the sealer down the fenderwell...replace the modlule...

It's Just A Matter Of time...


Texas Bird

Daddy's First Car Was A Model T--He Bought It Used For $11.50 And Drove It Home

1979 F150 Custom--Betsy--302 2V, 4sp.OD(RUG)

1978 F150 Ranger XLT--Snuffy--400 2V, C6

 

Ford OEM modules are 10 times better than the aftermarket units.

Ford has a TSB that recommends spacing the module 1/4" away from the fenderwell in order to let cooling air under it.

I have had both the module fail and the distributor pickup fail. Remember that the module gets it's ground at the distributor.

I have actually heard a module fail (aftermarket) in my van. It was sitting there idling on a very hot day when all of a sudden the idle got rough. When I got in and drove it a few minutes later it ran like... well you know. I had the module tested and sure enough, it was bad. I got a warranty replacement, but I later went out and found a junkyard OEM module that tested good and replaced the aftermarket unit. I kept the AM unit for a spare and have never needed it.

I haven't had a coil fail in 20 years. Unless you count the time a bunch of antifreeze fouled a whole ignition system. After the antifreeze splattered all over and dried, every time there was a little moisture in the air it messed up. The antifreeze allowed the components to arc over and create carbon tracks, ruining them. Ford fixed the antifreeze leak under warranty (less than 5K miles) but they would/could not fix the rest of the system.