Needing to replace the plastic undercarriage material and can't see how to do it. Search online only brought up what to use as a replacement but not how to do it. I have 2X4's sitting along the frame above it and there is no room to move the sheet and also the mounting bolts on the frame ears. I want to replace the bolts anyway. How would I do this? I have a massive undercarriage and chassis repair projects that needs done including the tongue re-welded on level. I think I know how to do the mounting bolts since I've seen a couple infront of the wall studs and not under them. Also, If a section of floor is replaced, Does it need to also go under the wall studs or can it just meet up to them? I had 2 places that received massive water damage from lack of caulking that runs parallel with the wall above the fenderwells but the shop was trying to save on labor and get me going so they didn't take the extra hour or two and pull the siding and everything to push the new flooring under the studs and re-secure them. I was also told any new flooring should run across to both sides. Is this true? I can also feel where the new sheets meet the old flooring under the vinyl. They also did not use anything to hold the new sheets together just relied on the floor studs to do it. Should I redo this the proper way since the vinyl is being replaced? I'm doing all this on a fema trailer I'm custom rebuilding.

 

Just a couple of thoughts.

I am sure you realize the reason most folks don't do this type of repair is it is incredibly labor intensive and pulling siding and rebuilding an entire wall takes way more than an extra hour or two in most situations. If you want to make it factory new, you will have to pull the siding and studs and install new where necessary. The reality is, doing this type of repair on a FEMA trailer at a dealership would cost more than the trailer is worth. Don't redo the floor or wall unless it is actually necessary or unless you just have to have it that way.

There is no one way to install what is called "belly wrap". When you fabricate, you are the one that has to do the deciding. If you run a "RV belly wrap" search on the Internet, you will find a load of discussion this topic. I am guessing you are going to use the one that is you buy that is like a large sheet of corrugated vinyl. Very light weight. Now one thought is "belly wrap" is not essential for warm weather use and many trailers and fifth wheels on the entry level do not have belly wrap.

If you are going to use it, there is not single way. In your situation, I would screw into the 2x4 running across using screws with large washers so it doesn't tear through and at the flanges of the frame normally you fasten it with self-tappers with a large washer screwing into the flange. You will have to come up with a way to do it onsite. Bear in mind many things are done at the factory that are not done once a unit leaves the factory as it is simply too expensive to take a trailer completely apart and put it back together.

Good luck.

Steve

 

Siding has to be replaced anyway. So it is getting pulled and end up at the scrappers. I only had the work done is because it was under "warranty". I have pictures I can post of what it looked like before and after they did it. The undercarriage wrap needs replaced. To much damage to repair. It has/had the black woven plastic. What I'm looking at is 4X8 sheets of corriboard to replace it with. Biggest issue is getting it between the 2X4 and chassis. My second concern is the repaired flooring. I thought it was good until I began to read and ask questions about it. Now I'm wondering. BTW, When I bought the unit I was told all unit have been "rebuilt" per se if there were any issues. I found one and the dealer owned right up to it.

Pictures:

















I have pictures of the entire repair process. If you're wondering why I'm doing this, Rebuilding it to last until Wife and I have the cash for land and to have a house built. When I'm done, It will not look like an RV let alone an ex- Fema unit. Its even going to have vinyl siding. Its getting remodeled and rebuilt. New wiring,plumbing,windows,etc... Everything.

 

The way the flooring is repaired is the standard manner in which it is done and I would not expect it to cause any problems. I have never seen it done any other way.

Steve

 

Ok. They cut down the middle of the closest stud and used it to fasten down at. And where two new pieces meet, They did nothing to join them. I still wonder why I can feel where the two meet at. Sometimes I can even see it. Have any Ideas? However, I am relieved to know it was done properly.

 

Can't you just splint the stud provided the wall is open?

 

You mean run a strip between the 2X2 and floor stud? I was thinking of that but wouldn't it be more structurally beneficial to run the floor piece between the 2X2 wall stud and 2X4 floor stud then secure the wall stud through it? What about the bump between the two pieces? I'm still in the planning phases of the build. I talked to anouther RV shop about lifting the body to run new undercarriage material since the 2X4 studs lay on the chassis and they told me that once the body bolts are removed to use 6 jacks, One on each corner and 2 infront of the wheelwells and lift it all at once that way. Does that sound right?

 

Don't know, I have never removed one. Seems like a lot of work and potential expense. Occasionally I flip campers and flipped a FEMA trailer in the past. Sold it for six grand and it needed nothing. No leaks, everything working, etc. This has to be a labor of love as just the time investment is going to be substantial.

 

What about the floor though? But you are dead right. Wife and I are completely rebuilding this one to become a home until we have the cash in hand to purchase some land in West TX and have a home built. She is like me, It is better to pay cash for something then have to worry every month if we can make the payments. And I hate to pay for money. (Interest)
Once the flooring is done, The rest will be easy. She wants to close off the rear with a door and remodel the bathroom with a shower stall, move the toilet and closet, Make the bunkhouse into a laundry room with a washer/dryer combo, remove the huge icebox (20 cu. ft.) and put a smaller one in so she can have a dishwasher, new kitchen counter with real drawers, New flooring, Nice wallpaper to cover the cheesy panel design, Instead of the shot aluminum siding I'm putting up vinyl like you would find on a single or double wide. I learned to hate aluminum siding. Better windows, Etc... It will not even resemble a fema unit. Or an RV. I may even need to replace the 3500# axles with heavier ones. Definitely going to need new tires. It has load range C currently. I'm surprised they haven't blowout from the weight yet.

 

Years ago, I had a '74 Kountry Aire that rotted the floor in the rear corner from a water tank leak. What I did was to support the actual box-on-frame with some cut to length 2x lumber, pull the old rotted flooring out, install replacement plywood (marine) then reattach the body back to the frame. I also had to repair some studs. I cut them off above the rot, installed a filler piece to replace the rotted chunk, then 'fish plated' the repairs. After that one, a Rolls International that I inherited from my dad needed virtually the same repairs and they too were done the same way

There is no way that I would try to lift the body off of the frame. The studding is probably cheap pine 2x2s (actual dimensions are 1-1/2x1-1/2) and most likely stapled with 1-1/2" and probably no stronger then 18ga staples. Can you envision really weak without the steel trailer frame and the inside paneling and outside skin - especially being a mass produced to gov't low end disaster relief standards?

Nothing on a trailer is magical - you just need to take your time to think out the project. They are NOT built to stick house standards so it seems anything goes. They are supposed to be built to at least RVIA specs, which is mostly concerned with power, plumbing and fuels which leaves lots of building leeway(The Recreation Vehicle Industry Association: Standards) especially when the gov't gets involved

 

Believe it or not, The floor studs are 2X4's and the sub floor is 1/2" thick. I know because I've already been in the floor before for repairs. For "cheap gov't trailers", They're not too bad. I've seen worse build quality out of production run units.

 

Back to the undercarriage material, What is the best way to life the body only little over a 1/8"? I was thinking either shim the floor studs up enough every 4' or using 4 bottle jacks at the same interval. The body would be empty of everything to reduce weight and load.

 

I would use a floor jack and lift the total body then get some treated 1/8 wood and lay that on the frame to give you an even platform then lower the body

 

I was thinking Coroplast. Basically plastic cardboard. Lighter and last longer.