will a bad relay activate my anti theft system? Relay # 2 on the inside fuse panel is a H8QTB the manual says it is part of the PATS system, any thoughts or experience, trying everything I can think of before towing the EX to ford.

 

I'm guessing you have a "no start" condition? To test pull it and use the diagram on it to test it. Use the battery under the hood for the power if you don't have a jump box to use and you will need a meter that tests continuity. Do you know how to use a multimeter at all?

 

Most of the time it's a bad key that activates it, doubt it's a relay. do you have another key?

 

+1^ I agree there. Is the security light blinking?

 

Hey guys, yes I know how to use a muti meter, just dont know where mine is , yes I have another key and it wont start the truck either. Ya i have a wont start issue, truck cranks strong just no ignition, I was able to reset the anti theft one time and got her home but I cant reset it now. I replaced the VSS due to a P0500 code yesterday. We had lots of rain on wed-thur. Yesterday morning truck started fine in the morning but an hour later the PATS activated and she sat all day, i was able to reset the PATS about 13 hours later and drove her home but now she is dead. Yes the security light is blinking.

 

Does truck still crank now with that security light blinking? I can't recall off hand if that's possible if PATS is not working, but on most alarms it won't allow vehicle to crank. Have you physically checked for spark or fuel?

 

Yes, the truck cranks very strong, im not very familiar with PATS so I dont know if it would crank or not. No I havent checked for fuel or spark, the theft light on the dash blinks rapidly and I get a dinging sound, the same one when you open the door or leave the lights on.

 

Maybe the rain had something to do with it, do you think your windshield leaked and got some electronics wet? it's a common problem.

 

ah ok yes that is PATS issue then.... and if neither key works then it's module or reader related. Could be simple as a reflash of the module or as big as replacing one of those components which wouldn't be out of the question. I have seen a few go bad. You could continue to try resetting as you said and hopefully drive it yourself rather than towing

 

J, thats possible, I have been told that on here by other members, I have a drop light shinning up into the dash to help dry things out as we speak, the windshield is next on the list to replace, besides the leak problem I caught a stone on the highway a little while back, looks like I should have replaced it then

 

Cuba, well thats a start in the right direction, is this something I could do or is this a dealer only fix

 

no. if it is PATS as it is leaning that way, only dealer can help you there.

 

Try this, I don't know if it works but it seems easy enough.

In the event that this does occur and the "THEFT" light is flashing, use the following procedure to restore vehicle functionality.
Turn the key to the "ON" position, but do not attempt to start the vehicle.
The "THEFT" light will begin flashing rapidly (twice a second). After about 60 seconds, the "THEFT" light will stop flashing rapidly and begin a sequence of slow flashes (usually 1 blink, followed by 6 blinks).
Turn the key to the "OFF" position and completely remove the key from the ignition and hold at least two feet away from the steering column for 30 seconds.
Insert the key and turn to the "ON" position. Wait for the normal engine checking procedure to take place. The "THEFT" light should no longer be flashing. At this point you should be able to start the vehicle.
If, after completing the above reset procedure, your vehicle still won’t start and the theft light is blinking rapidly, check to ensure that the PCM is not disabled by going to the Diagnostic Menu of your programmer and then checking for any DTCs.

If the PCM is not disabled, it should respond with a P1260 DTC (Theft Detected / Vehicle Immobilized) along with any other possible DTCs that may be stored. If this is the case, turn the key to the "OFF" position and remove the ground (-) battery cable (from both batteries if your vehicle is equipped with two) for a period of ONE HOUR to allow the theft codes to clear. Re-attach the cables and attempt to start the vehicle.

If the PCM is disabled and the programmer is not able to ready any DTCs or other data from the PCM, you may try restoring the vehicle back to the original stock calibration. If this still doesn't work, you'll need to contact your programmer vendor for further assistance in troubleshooting the reason for the no-start.

 

Thanks Cuba, knew you were going to say that but had to ask anyway lol. J, I pulled the neg cable last night so maybe It will dry out under the dash and I can reset it, as far as the PCM checks, i have no idea what your talking about, my EX has a 6.8 gas engine and is stock.

 

I'm not inclined to believe it's your PATS man. When the PATS is active, your motor will not turn over at all. The instrument cluster won't do anything. Try using a non-PATS key and you'll see what I mean

I think your issue is that the BCM got wet and you have a short. Get that windshield replaced and dry out the dash. Hopefully it didn't do too much damage.

The PATS clearing procedure is probably a weird coincidence that works because of the short due to the water. Hopefully once you have it all dried out and reconnect the battery cable, the PCM will be good to go and let you start her up